OK. Starting a new thread on this.
Here is where I stand.
I had the 240 CID engine from my 71 f100 rebuilt with one upgrade, a 300 crank. The rebuilder brought it out to 60 over, I think. I had mated it with my new-to-me c4 and installed it in the truck and head hooked up pretty much everything and had started filling up fluids.
In any event, I messed up two bolts holding the water pump. One repair went OK using a Timesert. The other, not so well and I ended up making things worse with successive repair attempts. Under just the pressure of the anti-freeze with no pressure water seeped from the bolt area.
My approach. I found a 240 that a rebuilder had pulled from a 69 f100 to replace with a 302. He said the engine was running well when pulled, but it leaked oil, particularly from the rear main. But from the looks of it just about everywhere else.
I washed it last night and started breaking it down some this afternoon. A mistake I made - I assumed the spark plugs were tight when I was pressure washing it. They were not. When I pulled the oil pan, plug there was a water based mixture. Realized that I ought to go ahead and pull the head and let it air out. Pictures provided. By the way, the pistons indicate 040 (40 over).
My plan is to, use the head from my rebuilt engine and the block from my donor engine. I am going to clean up the block, repaint it. Replace what gaskets I need to and use the sheet metal and other components from the rebuilt engine on the old block.
Stumbling through this, I am guessing I should use the push rods from the block and not from the rebuild head or does it matter.
Any advice in this effort would be appreciated.
I am pretty bummed about essentially squandering the $1300 or so on the rebuild.




A look at the pistons/cylinders of the old donor engine




more pictures of pistons/cylinders of the old engine.




Hope someone can get some idea of the condition of my donor block from these pictures.




some people carry spare tires, I carry a spare engine.




A look at the engine following some cleanup




Backside view of the engine prior to cleanup.




I will probably re-use the intake and exhaust manifold on this effort. I had planned to use an efi set and walker y-pipe.




this is from the old engine. won't use this head, but thought it might be worth a look for engine condition




closer view of the old head.

 

Too bad about your first engine. You are not the first to have something like that happen.

On your newest 240.....are you not going to rebuild the short block? Just use it as is?
I would be concerned about water in the oil. Loose plugs should not let that much water in. I would also want to know the overall condition of the internals, clearances, etc as well.

 

My plan is to use the block as it is. If machine work is required, then it is off to the machine shop 70 miles away. Not sure I can swing that in costs again.
Thinking that I will take a chance it is a good block and see what happens.
What's the worse that could happen.
I do have a co-worker who has a 302 from a mid 80s T-bird (carbed) who is willing to sell it to me for $200. It is intriguing. May buy it anyway and start it as a build for future use.
Tinman, this is where I am completely out of my league when it comes to the details of a rebuild. I am truly a shadetree mechanic who happens to have his mom's garage as a workshop.
Oh, yes, I will be pulling the oil pan this week and taking a peak underneath. Not really sure what I am looking at.

 

This was my first thought as well. Some loose spark plugs may let a little water seep in, but certainly not enough to put a noticeable amount of water in the oil.

It may have simply been a blown headgasket, which will now be replaced that the head is off.
However, if there's been coolant in the oil for a long time, you don't know what kind of damage that has done to the bearings.

You may simply want to replace the bearings while you're in there.
Maybe do a mild rebuild on it. New rings, bearings, etc.

 

Please do yourself a favor and completely tear it apart. At this point you have the engine out and can assess any repairs / replacement parts needed. I would - at the very least - remove the pistons and run a ball hone down the bores to clean up the rust. Your wash job did not leave all that rust. Some was there before that.

I don't want to have to quote my own message again and say "I told you so" after the engine is installed and issues develop, leading you to waste even more time and dollars on fixes that would have been relatively easy to fix when the engine was just sitting on the floor / engine stand. If you don't have an engine stand now would be a good time to shop for one. Every time I see one for sale at a garage sale I buy it - some for as little as $10. Some I convert to transmission stands, bicycle stands, etc.

Good luck with your project. I like all the clear pictures you are posting.

 

What FTF said X2. What appears to be a short and cheap route usually ends up being a long and expensive trip.

 

I hear what you guys are saying. I talked to the machinist who worked on the rebuild. He said bring the replacement block and the rebuilt long block in and he would boil and magnaflux (I think) the replacement block and transfer all of the new stuff to the replacement block.
Will be stripping down the engine the next couple of days to haul it and the replacement block into San Antonio (hopefully Saturday).
Wish I could find a correct shift lever for the c4 during this down time to fix that issue with the tranny out.

 

Talk about taking energy out of a person. Undoing something that you have been working on for a while.
Loaded up the short block that will be my replacement block yesterday and starting tearing off the tins and brackets on the rebuilt engine as well. Lot of work being undone. Hope to pull engine today and get it loaded with the block and haul into San Antonio tomorrow. Hope my little 240, 3-on-the-tree 69 f100 can haul both engines (: I am glad it has air shocks on the rear.
What was in the oil pan of the newly acquired engine was apparently oil fuel or something that had the varnish smell. It was not radiator fluid.

 

Removed the engine and transmission from the truck and got the long block loaded. Taking in to san Antonio in the morning.
Does anyone have any experience with the Dorman oe-style exhaust manifolds. I see they have two different part numbers listed.

 

While dropping off my engine blocks this morning I was going through the shops stack of exhaust manifolds.
One looked correct for my truck and was in great shape. The difference appears to be a large bunge hole on rear portion. Part number is D7TE-8480-DC.
Will this be a direct replacement, provided I can plug the bunge hole.

 

Did acquire the exhaust manifold. Does anyone know a good source for the 4.5 inch studs used to help connect the two manifolds? I would like new as I suspect I will probably mess up the ones that are in my old manifold getting them out. I am guessing the originals were 3/8 fine on one end and appear to be cut down on the other end with a course thread.

 

Trying out a rustoleum high heat primer and paint. Used my grill to heat cure it. Have some studs on the way for connecting it to the intake.
Don't know the status of engine. Guessing the replacement block passed inspection.




Say something about this photo

 

Saturday picked up my rebuilt engine (again). A communications hiccup resulted in me getting an unpainted engine. They were originally going to give me the damaged block as well. No thanks. However, why I accepted taking back the crankshaft and cam shaft from the old engine I will never know.
Sunday, painted the engine and started doing some installs that would not mess with the paint too much - oil pan, timing gear cover intake/exhaust manifolds (all just loosy-goosey).
Nearly forgot the oil pump install, even though the oil pump was sitting in the oil pan. Here's a question, what purpose does the gasket between the oil pump and the block serve? Seems that if that if there was a seap there, it would be no harm.
Will provide some pics of before and after again. Would like to have it put back together this week and ready to set back into the truck for the weekend.
Wish I had found a correct shift lever for my C4 during this downtime, but my searches yield nothing and I branched out to the point of looking at full transmissions (dang there are a lot of floor shift c4s out there).
Some pictures to follow for those interested.

 

My assumption on the gasket between the oil pump and block is to maintain pressure. I'm making these numbers up, but if the pump is putting out 50psi of oil and it's losing 5-10psi because it's spraying out the seams, you'll only be getting 40 - 45psi to the engine instead of the full fifty.

 

Paint looks a lot better the second day. Got the oil pan in place and bolted up only to realize I had left a plastic plate behind the fuel pump opening to minimize paint overspray. Luckily was able to put in some long bolts in the corners, lower the pan some and get it out.


started putting a few more things together. Lucked out, I actually kept most of the pull offs in one location. My minimalistic approach to organization is killing me.
Took me three days to find an offenhauser intake manifold heater I had promised to sell a fellow forum member.