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Has anyone tapped into the acc or ign circuit, fuse panel, power distribution module, DRL circuit, ignition module, ignition switch, or anywhere else, to obtain clean 12v power when the key is turned to acc or ignition?
Reason I ask is all of the power ports (cigarette lighter sockets) on my van are hot all the time, and although I did run a heavy cable for constant 12v power to the cargo area, (for fans, lights, etc), I have not determined where to pull switched power from. Back in the day, this was pretty easy, but with mini-fuses and always on power its not as easy.
Yes, I know there are fuses and relays to access for this, and a test light helps, but has anyone tapped into a circuit or relay (switched on with vehicle ignition) that they can tell me about?
I can probe and find some switched wires but with the mass of them under there, and most of them are of a smaller gauge, its a bit daunting.
My plan is to power a dashcam, gps, and cb radio only when the vehicle is running, so the current needed will be about 5 amps.
Presently I have to turn everything on and off manually to avoid all night, and all week long, battery drains. And sometimes I forget! Plus the dashcam needs switched power to operate correctly.
I looked at the wiring diagram and it appears there is an ignition relay controlled by the PCM...where it is I have no idea.
I used a blank in the fuse panel for my back up camera
Use a test light, find one that is off with key. Make sure to use an in line fuse
A 'blank'? A blank fuse... or do you mean a blank space in the panel? There are no empty slots in my under-dash fuse panel.
I guess I'm showing my ignorance....I assume you mean use a blown fuse and maybe solder a wire to the test point on the top surface of the fuse? Then inline fuse...yeah...I might try that....they dont make this easy.
They used to make piggy-back fuse adapters but I've not seen any for these mini fuses...
Perusing fleabay I found some mini fuse adapters...they have to come from China, they dont cost much, but I wonder if they will actually fit into the Ford fuse panel 'recess'....those fuses look like they are lower than the level of the fuse panel surface by 3/16ths or so.
I went out and looked more closely at the interior of the under-dash fuse panel and it looks like there would be enough clearance for those adapters to work, but I went ahead and ordered the other style, just a small metal tab that goes in with one of the blade fuses...I think I will be getting a lifetime supply: Twenty of them in two sizes!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-ATM-Mini-ATC-Car-Automotive-Fuse-Taps-Wire-Adapters-With-Female-Connector-/191195151019?hash=item2c841e7aab
These are shipped from the USA and should be here in a few days...
Personally I'd tap into the radio key on power circuit but only to trigger a relay, a larger amp fused circuit created by using one of the driver's side B-Pillar "extra" power feeds available there.
Those feeds were/are used to power rear air etc, are 30 amp fuse protected in the under hood Battery Junction Box.
Personally I'd tap into the radio key on power circuit but only to trigger a relay, a larger amp fused circuit created by using one of the driver's side B-Pillar "extra" power feeds available there.
Those feeds were/are used to power rear air etc, are 30 amp fuse protected in the under hood Battery Junction Box.
Shortly after I bought this van I ran an 8 gauge with a 30 amp fuse, right from that junction box, along the frame, and up into the cargo area, for my coach loads. I did not know about or look for any feeds in the B-pillar. Hmmm...live and learn. I installed a marine style fuse panel and hooked up my loads to that. It also provides hookup for my solar panel and controller.
It has all worked well, but I find that individually turning on and off some loads is a pain...and I would like to have some of these devices activate only with the vehicle power.
I have been looking at relays: simple 30 amp headlight relays, up to and including 'smart' power panels that have timers and low voltage disconnects. Its all just a matter of effort and cost.
Then I ran across the information about the Smart Junction Box...and it apparently has customer access power leads that were intended to feed the 'upfitter' switches...so now there is another option.
All I really need is to power three or four very low current items, and the K.I.S.S. method means I may simply run a wire from a switched circuit directly to these small devices.
I believe I found the accessory connector, near the fuse panel under the dash, or do they call this the 'Smart Junction Box?'
And below is a picture of the connector, (it was taped and somewhat hidden in the wiring harness).
It has a ground pin, and 2 pins that have power, one has power continuously, the other only has power when the ignition is ON. I dont know what the other pins are for.
If someone can confirm this is the 'upfitter' connector that would be great. (or maybe its for the OEM trailer brake controller?)
I rigged up a makeshift connector with inline 8 amp fuse and wired in the CB, the dashcam, and the GPS and now they all turn on and off with the key!
My other two devices up front are my VHF-UHF amateur radio (pulls 10 amps on transmit, wired into my marine panel), and my XM receiver (plugged into the glovebox power port) and both have automatic OFF functions, so I'm happy!
I discovered my left turn signal was flashing too quickly and the front bulb was not blinking....ok...burned out bulb (me thinks).
Turns out something in the way I wired that connector was causing it...the bulb was fine. (BTW its a 3157 bulb up there)
I'm now assuming its a connector intended for a trailer brake controller but...I just cant be sure.
I removed the improvised ground wire, and everything still works fine, its all grounding thru the CB chassis that is bolted to the driver seat frame...
LOL...yeah...this is getting weird...especially since I've been messing with it for 3 days now.
I am interested in the B pillar plug myself, and wonder if the cutaways have it too?
JWA?
Hmmm---speculating here...........not having seen up close and personal-like a cutaway I'm completely guessing the B-Pillar connections I reference might not be part of that build. I will strive and endeavor to photograph them as they might appear on the full body E-Series.
For the most part simply looking under the lower B-Pillar trim panel reveals a number of mated connectors that emerge from under the drivers side foot well trim panel. Any chassis wiring harness left bare or open---not connected to rearward running wire harness---or has jumper wires in the mating connector are possible BJB always hot power feeds.
On three different E250's model years 1999 to 2003 these "extra" connectors are in place but again on full sized E-Series, not cutaways.
Sorry can't be more specific---have to see the actual van for me to be 100% certain.
I am interested in the B pillar plug myself, and wonder if the cutaways have it too?
Looks like there are dozens of usable connectors all over these vans...including the cutaways since they are intended for all kinds of add-on goodies. It looks like there are a couple at the B-pillar on the driver side, that can handle about 25 amps per circuit, with two or three circuits per connector:
A few of those look exactly like the one I found under my dash...but the pinout isnt quite the same so I'm still a bit puzzled.
From what I read on some of these pdfs, apparently when the vehicles were shipped out new, there was a box included, maybe taped to the frame or in the glovebox, that contained some matching connectors for the aftermarket vehicle builder to use, rather than splicing up wires to the factory harness. Makes sense, but keep in mind, I'm only assuming and presuming, I have no direct knowledge.
Found a connector above the seat belt retractor. I'll do some investigating when time allows, and get back to you. Will also post a picture, as it is not the same as the picture above, but it is similar
Personally I'd tap into the radio key on power circuit but only to trigger a relay, a larger amp fused circuit created by using one of the driver's side B-Pillar "extra" power feeds available there.
Those feeds were/are used to power rear air etc, are 30 amp fuse protected in the under hood Battery Junction Box.
Great advice. Use the relay to control the switched load.,...jack
Great advice. Use the relay to control the switched load.,...jack
Yes, normally I would do that for heavier loads, but in this case, the load is less than 5 amps and the supply I'm using is apparently capable of 25 amps and already controlled by a relay.
I'm trying to use the K.I.S.S. approach...and it seems to be doing ok once I worked thru a minor snag.
09-21-2015, 07:23 PM
Ignition switched power for accessories?
the long way around....
when you find yourself in a hole....
