My 2002 F250 randomly dies while driving and seems to only be when I hit a bump no matter the size. I have checked the valve cover harness connector outside of the valve covers and they look fine. I checked the ECM connection took it off and reconnected it. Changed the CPS censor twice, checked the ICP sensor, checked continuity of all the glow plugs through the valve cover harness. Checked the fuel pump, checked all related fuses, changed the fuel filter, checked glow plug relay, batteries hold good voltage and were recently upgraded to bigger batteries. Engine runs just a little rough but not enough to be of concern. Air filter is clean and oil level is perfect. What could possible be causing my truck to randomly die when it hits a bump and not start back right away??? This truck is new to me and its the first diesel engine I have ever owned. I live in southern Alabama and if you can help fix this or point it in the right direction I will drive to your house, pay you, and buy the whole town beer. If not fixed in the next month the wold is going to have another oversized rifle range target.

 

How long does it take before it will start back up?
Check for loose grounds.

 

It generally varies each time, the first time I changed the CPS sensor it didn't start before and 10 minutes later as soon as the sensor was changed it worked. I did notice some of the wires of the valve cover harness were looking pretty worn out, all other wires look to be in good shape. The starter engages and the engine turns over fine with full power. Its almost like the glow plugs aren't getting any power or the injectors aren't running.

 

Water in IDM?

 

Ahhhhh didn't think about the IDM.... To note, the Service engine light works but is not illuminating so I'm not assuming its throwing a code... First thing tomorrow is to check that IDM, is there any way to test it?

 

You can remove it and shake it to listen for water intrusion.

 

Perfect. I can't believe I didn't think of this... You sir might have some beers coming your way. Thank you Thor!

 

well, I pulled the IDM and didn't hear any loose parts or water sloshing around. Could it be possible that the IDM went bad without throwing a code???

 

You forgot to check the most important IPR. Make sure the nut is still there.

 

well, I checked the nut and it was still tight. I haven't actually pulled the IPR and checked it. the HPOP is leaking a little bit now that I notice. I'm also pulling the drivers side valve cover to check the injectors plugs and such.... only problem is that back bolt is just in the most ridiculous place ever. I swear it feels like I'm working on a Toyota. Any advice on getting that bad boy off???

 

1/4 inch ratchet with a (13mm or 12mm don't remember) deep socket. Or use a wrench

 

On the driver side inner fender panel, under the air cleaner housing is a connector. It is heavy gauge wire. The connector looks similar to an automotive circuit breaker, but instead of 2 posts, it only has 1 post. I had this connector break on me, causing the same issue. Crimp a new end on the wire and was good to go. Worth a look.

Steve S.
To many to list.

 

The issue turned out to be a bad magnet on the IPR valve. When measuring the resistance of the magnet cold it measured fine, once heated up it overloaded my meter. All other chips and sensors tested out fine.

 

Thanks for coming back to post the fix!