Personally, I'd spend a few dollars more and buy two DynoMax Super Turbo mufflers. I have them on on '390 F250. They are a bit quieter, but still sound good to me; and I think they'll last longer than the Cherry Bombs.

The DynoMax Super Turbos and the Cherry Bomb glasspacks can be bought through the mail/online from Summit Racing. But if you call around to your local auto parts and/or muffler shops you may be able to locate them locally and avoid the shipping charges.

BarnieTrk

 

I would put a 12v Cummins in it.

 

Heheh-- OK--Barnie-- I'll ask! HOW do you know? Do appreciate the comment on exhaust routing--but I'm a sucker for coming out about 6" in front of the back of the bed, bend at 90 angle downward--then cut on the bottom radius of the bend. Out of sight, out of the way, and out of the mud catchin' zone. I like the exhaust run as high as I can get it--in the channel of the frame, if space allows. I don't care for exhaust pipes hangin low! Run over too many terraces, berms, pond dams and cow trails!

 

Slixty--I do appreciate the suggestion-- but nope. Had my fill of diesels in pickups and 1-ton's---long ago. Great engine for some--but not this 'ol buzzard!

 

I agree with your explained exhaust routing plan, ford801.

I have seen too many exhaust tailpipes run out to and beyond the rear bumper which I didn't like to deal with when hauling hay on the truck or if towing a loaded hay wagon. The side exit exhaust can become an issue when tossing/loading hay on/off from the side of the truck. Obviously it is advisable to shut off the engine when transferring hay from the truck or wagon to a nearby bale elevator - it is always better to let the chaff dust settle down before firing up the engine. I only dealt with 75-110# hay & straw bales, your situation may be different.

Regarding cooking starters - I have replaced way too many starters due to it being cooked by my headers. The first time I installed headers on my FE390 in my '65 was probably about '82. within the next 20 years I probably replaced the starter 5 times. Sometimes it wasn't a big starter issue as a couple of them were still under warranty! But it is a PIA to remove the starter since a fella needs to also remove the RH header; which means disconnect the header collector, new header collector gasket, new header to cylinder head gasket, and that just gets you to the starter. Then I got smarter and I have not had to change a starter now for the last 15 years....for I believe the reasons being: I do not let the truck sit with the engine idling for more than a few minutes at a time and I installed a heat shield around the starter protecting it from the header heat. Headers will also produce more under the hood heat, which leads to problems with increased electrical resistance issues and fuel line vapor lock.

Regarding cooking feet - I installed that first set of headers in my '65 when I lived in southern TX back in the '80s. Just waiting at a busy light signal my floorboards and feet would get HOT from the exhaust headers. Now I probably could have installed an insulating pad under my floor matting to keep my feet cooler, but I recall there were times when I was concerned for the floor mat smoldering towards a fire!

I was glad to hear you say you were going to run exhaust manifolds rather than headers. Oh, another thing, exhaust manifolds don't tend to move/warp over time thus allowing the gasket to become blown out.....as headers do. I would only recommend headers if you were planning to run the engine up over 4500 RPMs,,,, Below 4500 RPMs, I don't think they would produce any noticeable power gain....so why have them considering their aforementioned drawbacks?

If I could, I would gladly trade my headers for some OEM cast-iron exhaust manifolds. No bullchit, just sharing my real life experiences and opinions. "Your mileage may vary."

BarnieTrk

 

I used to be of the same opinion until I swapped the stock FE manifolds for a set of headers. The improvement in power was extremely noticeable from about 2,000 RPM and up. If you look at the passenger side manifold you can see why.

The exhaust exits the front two ports pointing rearward. This is good as the exhaust exits the rear of the manifold. The rear port is pointing forward - this means the exhaust has to make a tight 110* turn to get out the exit. The third port is a disaster. While the exhaust is flowing towards the rear from the front two ports, the exhaust coming from the third port is pointing forward trying to go against the flow causing all sorts of turbulence.

If you are worried about leaks, look into Sanderson Headers. They use a 3/8" thick flange and have a guaranteed leak-free design (which works). Their FF427 headers don't shroud the starter like other headers do either. If you are worried about heat, spend the extra money and get them ceramic coated.

 

I have a f350 flatbed,y block 292 pulls loads good 50-55 all day ,on the braking I got vacume canister that gives it like power brakes no problem stopping at all,

 

Was your FE stone stock, what was it in, how did you use your FE truck, I'd be interested to hear about what type of combo you had and how you used it that lead you to opt to running headers.

For the MUCH more $$ for a set of $515.00 Sanderson ceramic-coated headers, it had better have better gasket sealing and heat retention.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sn...-sec/overview/

In addition, the reviews I read mentioned the need for some modifications to clear the power steering box, which I also have. I wouldn't want to have to deal with modifying coated headers.

BarnieTrk

 

I don't know about your power steering box clearance.

Mine are in a '66 F250 4X4 which has the same steering box and frame as the OP's F350. My truck has a mild 416 (360/390 @ .030" over w/ 410/428 crank) with stock heads and a "T" four barrel cast iron intake.

I use it for things such as hauling 9,000 Lbs. of concrete



Or maybe towing 15,000 lbs of beef

 

Ah, now THAT is what I'm building this thing for--service hay equipment in the field, move hay---AND to haul a couple of "antique" tractors--a '55 801 and a '55 600 (yes, both Fords, of course) to antique tractors shows across the state. Now, since you guys are being so magnanimous with your advice and information--- I'm going to uncover another layer of my ignorance concerning Fords, and ask for some MORE guidance! (remember, I'm an ex-SB GM wienie) I've been looking at cams--F-350--390 FE--looks like it's going to be bored 60 over--no headers-Edelbrock performer 4V manifold--Edelbrock performer 4V-with factory 4 spd and two spd. brownlite direct/over. I'm looking for excellent idle--lots of midrange torque--and smooth cruising at 2-2500 rpm. I see all these durations and lift specifications--and frankly, I a victim of the DUH syndrome! I'm used to a cam spec that says--"RV cam--designed for--blah,blah,blah---Guys--what duration and lift would you suggest????

 

Cam profile suggestions can be all over the board, since the cam profile should be based on many factors, some of which you haven't mentioned yet, like your target final drive ratio and the diameter of rear tires.

But to give you as starting point - Here is the first 'RV / Working truck' camshaft profile suggestion:

Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/268
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 219/227
Gross valve lift ( Int / Exh ) : .540/.552
LSA / ICL: 112 / 108
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd

A couple of related questions regarding your cylinder heads:

1) Do you know what cylinder head castings you will be using?
2) Will you do a valve job, install hardened valve seats, will you have their ports cleaned up of "humps & bumps"?

3) What will be the compression ratio?
4) What octane grade of fuel will you be using - 87 or 91 octane?

5) Will the fuel be 100% gasoline or an ethanol blend?

BarnieTrk

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-oomph-2.html

The above link is a good read. I am trying to set my engine up for the same thing you want but even more so.

If you are going to spend money on an aluminum intake, get a Performer RPM. Otherwise just get a stock "S" or "T" code cast iron manifold that performs the same as a Performer manifold.

Edelbrock carbs are good and simple, but if you are trying to squeeze every last drop of power out of it something more tuneable like a Holley would be better.


I used to be a header hater too - until I went from stock manifolds on my 416 to Sanderson headers. Remember, I use my truck the way you want to use yours - like a truck, not a race car - and headers are so unbelievably completely worth it.

 

Well, Barnie-- you raise some questions--and since this thing is progressing to the point where a cam is going to need to be laying around the shop somewhere soon--


1. I have no idea what the casting #'s on the heads are--but they will be polished and ported, and hardened seats installed.


2. Compression ratio--10:1


3. Fuel- 104 octane leaded A/C fuel. I have easy access to this fuel-- and it's not a whole lot more expensive now than that crap they call gasoline at the local Valero!


4. 100% gasoline, Sweet Oklahoma crude based! LOL--

 

I have a 62 F100 factory 4x4. It has a 413 FE (428 with a 390 crank). I bought the Sanderson Headers, full length, ceramic coated, etc. I do a lot of towing since I collect old cars and trucks. The difference in power from the stock manifolds is unbelievable . Everyone asks about this old pickup. The sound is quite unique. These trucks are a true pleasure to drive....