Marine Never Seez
#1
Marine Never Seez
I see on differant threads people using greese on wheels/rims to stop them from seizing onto the hubs. A couple of years ago a friend of mine told me about Marine Never Seez. I use it now on everything.
One example is the wheel studs on my boat trailer. No matter what I did or put on the studs they would dry out and corrode. I now put this stuff on them and it lasts a couple years easy. Just don't put it, or anything, on the surface where the nut meets the rim or tourqe will be effected.
I use this stuff on everything that needs some lube, corrosion protection or any bolt I may want to get off one day. It has a very high temperature rateing, way higher than regular never seez.
check it out. It's not cheap but it works amazingly well.
And no I don't have any financial interest in this company. Just a great product.
Bostik Marine Grade Products - Industrial Supply Group
One example is the wheel studs on my boat trailer. No matter what I did or put on the studs they would dry out and corrode. I now put this stuff on them and it lasts a couple years easy. Just don't put it, or anything, on the surface where the nut meets the rim or tourqe will be effected.
I use this stuff on everything that needs some lube, corrosion protection or any bolt I may want to get off one day. It has a very high temperature rateing, way higher than regular never seez.
check it out. It's not cheap but it works amazingly well.
And no I don't have any financial interest in this company. Just a great product.
Bostik Marine Grade Products - Industrial Supply Group
#2
#4
YES see the other post. Copper anti-seize for exhaust parts and nickle based for all others. Salve up everything! You'll never have a hard time removing anything again. I think Marine based paste is a metal free base? Its OK as well, though I dont have any experience with it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...hub-issue.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...hub-issue.html
#5
I can add 2 pieces of info here....
1. Never use anti-seize products on your lug nuts. You don't want those to come back apart easily. You can use this logic for other things too.
2. Anti-seize is a lubricant. User manuals often give you bolt torques for re-assembling all of your things. If you have applied anti-seize, these values no longer apply as they are for non-lubricated threads. Lubricated threads require less torque to achieve the same clamping force. A 1/2-13 bolt requires 75 ft-lb dry and only 55 ft-lb lubricated. If you are not aware of this, you will start stripping threads.
For reference:
http://www.tillagetools.com/uploaded...rqueCharts.pdf
1. Never use anti-seize products on your lug nuts. You don't want those to come back apart easily. You can use this logic for other things too.
2. Anti-seize is a lubricant. User manuals often give you bolt torques for re-assembling all of your things. If you have applied anti-seize, these values no longer apply as they are for non-lubricated threads. Lubricated threads require less torque to achieve the same clamping force. A 1/2-13 bolt requires 75 ft-lb dry and only 55 ft-lb lubricated. If you are not aware of this, you will start stripping threads.
For reference:
http://www.tillagetools.com/uploaded...rqueCharts.pdf
#6
I can add 2 pieces of info here....
1. Never use anti-seize products on your lug nuts. You don't want those to come back apart easily. You can use this logic for other things too.
2. Anti-seize is a lubricant. User manuals often give you bolt torques for re-assembling all of your things. If you have applied anti-seize, these values no longer apply as they are for non-lubricated threads. Lubricated threads require less torque to achieve the same clamping force. A 1/2-13 bolt requires 75 ft-lb dry and only 55 ft-lb lubricated. If you are not aware of this, you will start stripping threads.
For reference:
http://www.tillagetools.com/uploaded...rqueCharts.pdf
1. Never use anti-seize products on your lug nuts. You don't want those to come back apart easily. You can use this logic for other things too.
2. Anti-seize is a lubricant. User manuals often give you bolt torques for re-assembling all of your things. If you have applied anti-seize, these values no longer apply as they are for non-lubricated threads. Lubricated threads require less torque to achieve the same clamping force. A 1/2-13 bolt requires 75 ft-lb dry and only 55 ft-lb lubricated. If you are not aware of this, you will start stripping threads.
For reference:
http://www.tillagetools.com/uploaded...rqueCharts.pdf
The concensus was, if you put never seez on the lug nuts you must ensure that it is only on the threads. Never let it get in on the mateing surface off the nut or the wheel. By matings surface I mean the area of the lug nut and the wheel that contact each other.
When the lug nut is torqued, the vast majority of the torque/resistence to turning comes from the friction of the mating surfaces. Only a fraction of the torque comes from the friction of the threads binding against each other.
If you are realy freaky about torque, torque to the bottom of the spec not the top.
I am religous about torqing every thing and I tend to tourqe to the lower number of the range given on anything I have used never seez on.
I have been doing this for several years and have never had a lug nut come loose. I have never had a stretched stud and I have also never had one seize on since I started this.
#7
That's sound logic for the acorn type lug nuts, and possibly even mag type... and any other lug-centric wheels.
Hub-Centric wheels are different. If you notice on the lug nuts on Super Duty pickups there is a bearing between the threaded nut and the wheel. Thread friction is the primary keeper on these wheels. There is very little friction between the thrust bearing and the lug nut.
Hub-Centric wheels are different. If you notice on the lug nuts on Super Duty pickups there is a bearing between the threaded nut and the wheel. Thread friction is the primary keeper on these wheels. There is very little friction between the thrust bearing and the lug nut.
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#8
That's sound logic for the acorn type lug nuts, and possibly even mag type... and any other lug-centric wheels.
Hub-Centric wheels are different. If you notice on the lug nuts on Super Duty pickups there is a bearing between the threaded nut and the wheel. Thread friction is the primary keeper on these wheels. There is very little friction between the thrust bearing and the lug nut.
Hub-Centric wheels are different. If you notice on the lug nuts on Super Duty pickups there is a bearing between the threaded nut and the wheel. Thread friction is the primary keeper on these wheels. There is very little friction between the thrust bearing and the lug nut.
#9
Here is my two cents worth.
I have used an anti-seize product on all my boat, travel trailer and vehicle wheel studs. And have never had one become loose. Nor have I had one seize. I have not worked on a SD with the hub-centric lugs but I would use an anti-seize without hesitation. I have also applied it to the two mating surfaces of the inside wheel and brake hub to prevent bonding. Yes. It does effect the toque value. If I were concerned about a lug nut coming loose (and I'm not) I would use some
LOCTITE® THREADLOCKER BLUE 242®.
Threadlockers from Loctite Products | Threadlocking / Mechanical Gasketing | Loctite Adhesives
This stuff is a lubricant and prevents corrision of the surfaces. Don't use the red stuff. It really sticks.
I have used an anti-seize product on all my boat, travel trailer and vehicle wheel studs. And have never had one become loose. Nor have I had one seize. I have not worked on a SD with the hub-centric lugs but I would use an anti-seize without hesitation. I have also applied it to the two mating surfaces of the inside wheel and brake hub to prevent bonding. Yes. It does effect the toque value. If I were concerned about a lug nut coming loose (and I'm not) I would use some
LOCTITE® THREADLOCKER BLUE 242®.
Threadlockers from Loctite Products | Threadlocking / Mechanical Gasketing | Loctite Adhesives
This stuff is a lubricant and prevents corrision of the surfaces. Don't use the red stuff. It really sticks.
#10
. A 1/2-13 bolt requires 75 ft-lb dry and only 55 ft-lb lubricated. If you are not aware of this, you will start stripping threads.
For reference:
http://www.tillagetools.com/uploaded...rqueCharts.pdf
For reference:
http://www.tillagetools.com/uploaded...rqueCharts.pdf
thanks for this info...seriously....I now feel better about under torquing my lubricated wheel lug nuts....
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