2004 Ford Ranger, V6, automatic. PROBLEM: Car won't start.

DETAILS: Came home from work yesterday, went to leave and it clicked like a dead battery, then the horn/PATS started honking. LOUDLY. I'm fairly familiar with this as the horn/PATS/factory alarm thing honked like this when I changed the battery a few months ago. I thought maybe one of the battery cables was loose. Possibly the mechanic that recently did some work didn't tighten one of them and it finally shook loose.

Multiple attempts to reconnect the battery. Sometimes dome light, gauge lights, and door ajar chime would work properly, and sometimes none of these turned on and I would get a battery light in my dash along with the red idiot light for the alarm. Regardless, with both the former and the later, I would turn the key to START, but it would click like a dead battery.

Checked the battery at Autozone last night and supposedly its 100%. As mentioned, replaced the battery a few months ago and followed the below process for the PATS warning system yesterday:
Tried the following in park and neutral
Turn ignition switch to ON
Connect both battery cables
Start ignition
It's been a few months so I might be missing a step here or maybe I did something in the wrong order, resulting in the car shutting down thinking it's being stolen. I've also tried leaving it ON for a minute. Turning it OFF. Taking out the key for a minute. Then repeat. Still didn't start.

I should note, whenever I try to start the car and it clicks dead, the factory alarm kinda goes off, but very muffled. Sounds like a dog barking in its sleep, almost non existent. I did review numerous forums on battery replace/PATS stuff, but a lot of them were related to remote entry/keyless start. I have neither features on my truck. Manual door locks. Manual windows. No keyless remote start.

Battery cables and terminals were cleaned.

After leaving battery disconnected for a few hours, when reconnecting I'll get the electrical system hum that's normal if you were to turn your car to the ON position without starting the ignition.

When I don't get this hum I'll sometimes hear a fast repetitive clicking that sounds like it's coming from the fuse box inside the cab.

With the battery cables connected for a minute or two, the positive cable gets very hot. Not scalding as I'm able to touch it for a shot time, but it seems abnormally hot as one wouldn't be able to touch it at that temperature for too long.

Anybody previously have a similar problem with a solution that didn't require a mechanic?

Any insight on possible blown fuses that are particularly associated with this issue?

Recently had work done by my mechanic. Noticed they didn't properly fasten fuse box cover in the drivers side corner, under the hood. Possible that dust got in there and screwed something up?

Any other trouble shooting tips I should try?

It has been around 100 degrees where I live. Other than driving to and from work no other major driving has been done for the last few months. Work commute is only 10 miles.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated, but I'll be upfront-I live in an apartment and don't have tools beyond hand tools necessary for basic auto and home repair (sockets, wrenches, etc.) If it's going to require purchasing more than $100 or so in tools just to test this I'd probably rather take it to the mechanic. Not to sound lazy, but the time for me to bike to Autozone, diagnose the stuff at home, then go back for the part(s), fix it, and storage of tools in my already cramped apartment just ain't worth it in the end. BUT, if it's a commonly blown fuse or something similar, I can handle that on my own.

Thanks!

 

With your positive cable too hot to touch,sounds as if you have a bad battery cable or cut cable or cable grounding on the frame. Follow your positive cable from the battery to the starter checking to see any arking or bare/burnt or damaged cable. If the cable is too hot to touch,I wouldn't keep it attached to the battery for too long,it might do damage to the electrical system. That's the first thing to get you started with.

 

It might be something with the PATS transceiver module. Mine when bad and there was no start, with no click, I thought it might be the Clutch position sensor or the starter relay, I checked both of those and then took it to a shop, they noticed the PATS light flashing and sent me to the dealer.

 

Thanks for the replies, but I fixed it before seeing them. Well, temporarily fixed it.

I searched some other forums and people mentioned that the battery cables could come loose, of course not only at the terminals, but also where they're mounted inside the engine compartment. Also as Dennis-Pa mentioned, check the battery cables for bare/burnt damage.

Some other people mentioned issues with the connectors where you connect it to the battery. I had to replace the positive connector a few months back. I don't have an acetylene torch and without knowing better, purchased the bolt on type connectors. Just found out yesterday those are looked down upon, rightfully so, as you'll run into issues down the road. Well, that's what was my issue. A little bit of corrosion and the connection was garbage. Cleaned off the corrosion, reconnected the clamp, and voila, truck fired right up. Test drove it, turned it off and on about ten times and I'm back in business.

Next task, replacing the cheap bolt on battery connector with a proper one. Hopefully this helps a few people remedy an easy fix and saves them from headaches, heartbreak, and paying too much for tows/repairs of a simple fix.

Thanks Dennis-Pa and g_k50 for your replies. Much appreciated!