I have been noticing this issue for about a month now. Slowly getting worse.
On a cold start, it would sometimes take 5-10 second to catch. About a week ago I noticed that after driving around town it took longer to start. Now it is almost to the point of no start when its hot.

KOEO
IRP = 14.7
IPR = 0
FCM = 47.5
SYC = 0

Starting when hot
IPR = 73.5
IPR =450 - 550
FCM = 47.5
SYC = 1
Then if I press the pedal it may start up right away.

I am thinking IPR valve issues.

New EBP sensor (cleaned out the tube and nipple)
New EGR valve
Clean out the map sensor line
Clean out the IAT sensor

What else to look at before I take it to m-chan68?

OEM filters
5-40 Rotella

Thanks for any help.

 

What do you have for fuel pressure?

 

Looks to me a IPR, ICP sensor, or high pressure oil system leak/pump problem. I would bet on a leak

 

Those readings were close to mine when the HPOP found better things to do than pressurize the injectors.
She would flirt with 500 but never got above, however don't rule out the ICP or IPR.

Does it run if you unplug the ICP?

 

DUMMY RAIL PLUGS.

 

If u got it tore down, might as well do the o-rings on fuel rail, nipple cups on injectors, etc. unless ur thinking of headstuds, head gaskets, etc etc.

One of our members, robbinthahood, is proficient in this too. U might hit him with a message. He might be able to help u out unless u have other plans. Good luck!

 

Fuel Pressure is 65psi.

The ICP sensor was replaced a couple months ago.

Hopping that's all.

I have not opened it up. Haven't the time. (got one week left of holidays and off to SC next month).

Any more checks that will confirm or pinpoint the problem? I have AE (ford). What else should I monitor on cold start and hot starts to be sure?

Thanks

 

Most likely a high pressure leak, on our early 05 6.0 it's always the injector o-ring( where it connects to the oil rail) take your valve covers off start her up and check for oil squirting from the injectors where it connects to the oil rail, if that fails stc fitting, hpop hardly go bad, even the early ones they are pretty much bullet proof.

 

John, if I'm not mistaken, when your truck was "gone over" while it was under warranty, I thought you already had your STC fitting replaced, along with your dummy rail plugs. BUT..... in thinking about it, how long ago was this done? The reason I ask is because the updated rail plugs and standpipes with the white Teflon rings weren't released until very late into this hot no restart issue became more apparent.


The only way to know if yours has the updated rail plugs or not, is to go over all paperwork. If you see -W302195 in the list of parts, those are the original style dummy rail plugs (the ones that tend to fail the lower d-rings). The updated rail plugs would be part number -W302908, OR you can obtain updated standpipes for both banks along with updated rail plugs for both banks as well in one kit and the part number for it, is 6E7Z-9A332-B. The other way to tell for sure is to remove your valve covers. If a 10mm allen key is needed to remove either rail plug or standpipe, you still have the original style. The updated rail plugs and standpipes require a 12mm allen key to remove/install.

 

I will look for the receipt. The work was done back in Dec. 09. with only 77K on her and now I have 238K.
Thanks

 

You didn't mention the year of truck?

Sounds like a High-pressure oil leak.

 

My signature.
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V

 

Ah hah! Didn't realize my options has disabled signatures. Been trying to figure out for a while why my signature wasn't showing up.


What's the IPR% at hot idle?

 

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you'r avatar was distracting him..

 

Wow John. I can't believe you've already put 161K kms. on it already since the work was done. Time sure flies. However, if it was done back in '09, chances are pretty good you still have the original style standpipe and dummy rail plug combo. Although I don't know the exact date off the top of my head, I'm pretty sure the updated standpipes and dummy rail plugs were released sometime later than that. Which if that's the case, it certainly wouldn't hurt to install them now. The part number is 6E7Z-9A332-B for the kit that does both sides, if that helps. To know for sure, you can always remove your valve covers for a look/see. If they require a 10mm allen head, you still have the original style (the updated ones use a 12mm allen head).