1986 FORD RANGER 2.3 EFI

Ok, it cranks over,but does not Vroom......I had a 50 month iNTERSTATE battery that lasted for 8 years!!!! (1995)
I went to start...DEAD. I took the battery to the auto parts place,they hooked it up, and told me it was Baaad. I bought a new one,put it in and it cranks,but not vroms...Last year I replaced the plugs/wires/distributor/Ford Alternator/Ignition Control Module/oxigen sensor/Timing belt/Fuel Filter/Pick up coil/...stop me anytime......and now a new battery. The only thing I didn't replace was the Distributor Coil the the distributor cap coil plugs into.Could this be bad? Plugs shouldn't go out after about a year? Maybe the alternator is to blame? all these parts are about a year old.

I did replace the Pickup Coil last year,but I can't believe that may be the problem soooo... I checked the original 17 year old Distributor (engine mounted) Coil, and it still seemed to be alive,(8,000 ohms)then took # 1 Cylinder plug out and tried to crank it over,and did not see any spark from the plug. Then I bought a new Distributor FORD Coil and put that in,but no difference. wants to Crank,but not Vroom Vroom...
I'm assuming that there might be a problem between the distributor Coil and the distributor cap. Checked the Cap and rotor and seemed to be fine. The plug wires are also one year old BUT...they are not Motorcraft plug wires....ummmmmmm..can that make a difference? I think it's not the Fuel as of yet. Already replaced the fuel filter/fuel relay/and o2Sensor. People have told me that the ignition Control module goes out alot.(below the distributor cap) I replaced that new last year too and that was Motorcraft. Maybe they get power surges that may cause them to go out...? Jus guessing here. Checking the Wiring could be the most exhausting,tedious procedure anyone could do,so I'm trying to eliminate the obvious.
Test Checked most of the wiring harnes around the Distributor coil and the Fuel sensor over by the Air filter, and got signal.
Monday I will go back to FORD and buy another Module,(they say one year warranty)and hope for the best.

Thank you lots for your input!

 

Im not a drivability specialist so this is highly speculative. Im thinking about that dead battery. If you have an EEC relay and Fuel pump relay setup like a lot of the older model Fords, perhaps the EEC relay stuck and caused the battery to drain completely, possibly because it kept the fuel pump running. Once the power depleted the EEC relay opened but is now bad, and consequently will not power up, causing your no spark condition? Other than that I see no reason for a dead battery to result in a no start condition after replacement, unless you left off a crucial ground wire or power wire somewhere.

 

86' FORD RANGER 2.3 4 CYL. EFI....JUST CRANKS,DOESN'T TURN OVER,AND THERE IS NO SPARK COMING OUT OF THE SPARK PLUG when Cranked over....

The sound it makes sounds like it could be flooded,someone told me to check the fuel valve (Is this the same as the fuel relay?) which allows fuel to be sent to the injectors,but so far since this past Saturday (8-02-03), replacing the Battery, Ignition Coil, (TFI-Igntion Control Module-(Motorcraft),Spark plugs and wires..and still,not much luck.
Less than a year ago,I replaced the Alternator-(Motorcraft),Pick-up coil, Timing belt,O2 Sensor,Fuel Sensor,fuel Filter,(pump was ok), Distributor cap/Rotor.
I pulled the #1 Spark plug out with plug wire and proceeded to crank the truck over looking for a spark on the plug....No such Luck! Compression test in all cylinders-ok.
The Process of Elimination can be very expensive and tedious, but has anyone ever replaced the Ignition Coil harness connector (Bottom connector with two wires coming out of each end to splice with existing wires) and actually got this to run? It looks kind of rusty on the inside of connector.
Again, I am guess that it's somewhere between the Coil,and the Distributor Cap.
With everything said, what else could be the problem. I am guessing it's not the fuel,but maybe electrical. No spark. Thanks, Bozo4ford :-)

 

It could be a broken timing belt, but if this were the case, your
compression would have a problem!!!

 

Thanks Bob,
No, we checked for the jump maybe in the belt, but it fine..a few months old.
Someone suggested maybe the battery cables could be bad,but if they were, would I still get the alternator to turn over?
When we checked the two Distributor Coil wires, one was @ 12 volts -postive side) and the other was @ 6 volts. On a 12 Volt system,they both should be at 12 volts, right?
Anyway the rotor turns, the spark plug was grounded,but no spark. Thank you for your time in the reply!

 

86' range 2.3 4 cly. EFI

Thanks to all for taking the time to reply!

When we checked the two Distributor Coil wires ( going from the coil,to the harness connector), one was @ 12 volts -postive side) and the other was @ 6 volts. On a 12 Volt system,they both should be at 12 volts, right?
Anyway, the rotor turns, The timing belt is fine, we tested the grounded spark plug but no spark. Someone suggested maybe the battery cables could be bad,but if they were, would I still get battery power to the alternator to turn over?

Brand New TFI Ignition control module, Timing belt,Distributor Coil, Spark plugs/wires, Battery, Distrib. cap/rotor...but no spark! It really wants to Vroom..but only cranks. Now if I did have a spark, then I would ssume it maybe the fuel relay/sensor/pump/injectors/filter...and that's another paycheck away!!!

Thank you for your time!

 

I have combined these threads, hopefully in chronological order, so everybody can get the whole story without clicking on multiple threads. I hope you get it fixed soon.

 

With the key in the run position -
Try a 12 Volt test light from the negative side of the coil to ground.
The light should stay on strong. Crank the engine light should blink.
If the light blinks but your'e not getting spark check your coil resistance, distributor wires, fouled spark plugs etc...

If the light is not blinking check the wiring harness between the coil and ignition module. Then check the PIP - rotor.Check voltages at tfi wiring harness.

Voltages tfi wiring harness
With the key in run position - I think pin 2,3 on tfi module should read 90% of battery voltage. With key in start position pins 3,4 should read 90% battery voltage. (+) terminal voltmeter goes to wiring harness pin being tested, (-) terminal voltmeter goes to distibutor ground.
(disconnect starter relay at "S" terminal for start tests. )
Pin 1 is closet to the base of distributor. Verify tfi tests in a Haynes manual.

Good luck

 

Bozo4ford Found the problem.......(86' Ranger 2.3 EFI 5-speed)
Thank you for all your replies and suggestions on my ignition problem. After all I've done, thinking it was strictly related to the Ignition Coil, or TFI Control module,and the pick-up coil. (AGAIN) The main reason why it would Crank but not remain Running was the EEC Assembly Computer relay,((( Part# DY-443 E4TZ-12A646-A )))which is housed over by the fuel sensor relay,passengers side, under the plastic cover between the battery and the firewall. Apparently, water got into the unit,rusted and shorted out.

A Ford $38.00 dollar part and $365 dollars for the mechanics time to trace it!! He also replaced the Distributor relay.

While tracking the problem,he even replaced the Thermostat Module for my Air conditioning unit which is an ARA after market unit that the dealership installed,but I haven't used for years! Why? I dunno. I thought maybe he thought the T'Stat (located under the glove box was juiced into the distributor,but it is really connected to the fuse box)Weird. Thanks again to all!