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#1
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newb here mods are r&d rd2-110 ip,r&d stage 1 fuel injectors,r&d factory turbo upgrade,r&d 3" downpipe and elbow for factory turbo modified to stainless,r&d intake manifold modified to use factory breather, r&d-arp head stud kit, 7.3 ps intercooler, k&n air filter, hypermax cowl air induction, diamond eye 4" stainless exhaust,tripal disk tork, stage 3 red eagle clutches, derale transmission cooling pan, derale in-line fan thermostat switch, mishimoto heavy duty transmission cooler with electric fan, 4 gauge pillar pod with max tow double vision gauges oil pressure, trans temp, exhaust temp, boost. r&d main girdel orderd not in yet
#2
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 60,985
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#3
sounds like you've got one bad a** IDI..have you dyno'd it to see how much power it's making?
like tjc transport suggested, ditch the K&N...I ran one of those on my old 1990 F250 that I used to have.. the engine ran worse with the K&N, than it did with the stock paper filter...I also ran one of those K&n cone filters on my 88 ranger.. and ditched it after I found out how much crud it was letting into my engine..
google: k&n vaseline test
smear some vaseline on the engine side of the air cleaner, and run the truck for a couple weeks.. check the vaseline smear, and see what the k&n is allowing in your engine..
like tjc transport suggested, ditch the K&N...I ran one of those on my old 1990 F250 that I used to have.. the engine ran worse with the K&N, than it did with the stock paper filter...I also ran one of those K&n cone filters on my 88 ranger.. and ditched it after I found out how much crud it was letting into my engine..
google: k&n vaseline test
smear some vaseline on the engine side of the air cleaner, and run the truck for a couple weeks.. check the vaseline smear, and see what the k&n is allowing in your engine..
#4
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#12
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 60,985
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#14
For the air filter, i see you went through some work to keep the oem air box. Honestly, that is the first thing i would ditch, followed by the filter. Build a box to house something like a AEM dryflow air filter. That air box is way restrictive.
Is cowl induction really any better than going through the core support? Seems to me like you would get alot more of a ram air effect up front as the bottom of the windsheild is a low pressure area. Beyond that, idk about you guys, but my cowl turns into solid ice if there is any snow (like right now).
Awesome setup though, ill be right behind you as soon as i can decide between 110,150,180
Is cowl induction really any better than going through the core support? Seems to me like you would get alot more of a ram air effect up front as the bottom of the windsheild is a low pressure area. Beyond that, idk about you guys, but my cowl turns into solid ice if there is any snow (like right now).
Awesome setup though, ill be right behind you as soon as i can decide between 110,150,180
#15
Two things here:
1. An oil pressure of 12-18 PSI at hot idle is acceptable. These engines run at low pressure high volume.
2. If your oil pressure is at the low end of the spectrum, chances are it's due to the oil pressure regulator in the oil cooler getting stuck in the "open" position. These engines are designed to bypass extra oil and keep the pressures down(usually in the 20-40 psi range), but if the regulator gets stuck you can either get really low pressures at hot idle, or much higher ones at high revs.
I've not heard anything about worn bearings creating low oil pressure... the volumes are so much that the extra oil slipping past the bearings doesn't make much difference.
When I had my engine rebuilt, the bushings were quite worn according to my rebuilder. It still had no trouble making 16 psi at hot idle, but would sometimes make more, depending on how the regulator managed to stick.