Hello all, well I've finally got the 9" done, installed, new D/S, plumbed, bled, and out for a very short conservative test drive. So far at low speed it's quiet and smooth, but I obviously need some fine tuning of the rear drum brakes. I didn't have much luck finding answers while researching our FTE files or doing a Google search, on "Adjusting drum brakes on a limited slip rear". As is probably obvious when you turn one wheel the other wheel also turns, making it hard to tell which wheel is actually causing drag or the lack there of. Im sure a little trial and error would end up with decent results, but if anyone has a tip on how to balance the drag equally on both wheels, I would be very grateful. I wouldn't have ever even considered this rebuild and swap if I didn't have you guys here on FTE to help me thru it. I really appreciate all the help you guys so graciously and freely gave me along the way. When I bought this truck all I knew how to do was maybe change the oil. Im still no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but together we (you guys and myself) have managed to build this truck together. This is sure a special place for guys like me, thanks letting me be part of the FTE family.

 

"Should" be basically same procedure regardless of L/S? Never thought about it though. Run the star wheel up all the way tight so the wheel won't turn, then back it off till there is a light drag.

If you've done a complete brake job with all new components there is going to be some seating of all the various parts before they find their own. Both wheels should be adjusted approx. the same number of clicks, assuming drums are same size..

Depressing the brakes a few times will help in seating the parts, tho again check after short test drive. The initial shoe adjustment must be done manually and fairly close i.e. "light drag" before the self adjusters can ever be made to work when backing up.

Try some light to medium (forward) braking around the block on a test run, then check for shoe clearance one final time, may need to tighten up a bit. If they are too loose this will contribute to a low pedal as well.

 

Maybe you can try using one of these shoe setting gauges. Measure the inside of the drum, lock the set screws, and transfer the size to and adjust the shoes to fit.

 

I never thought about it either. I'd guess you can back one wheel off a couple notches, so it has no drag, and adjust the other. Then back the adjusted brake off two notches, so it won't drag, and do the other one, then add back in the two notches. Do your new brakes not have self-adjusters? Most 9"s did. If they do, you just need to get close, then go in reverse and jam the brakes on 4 - 5 times.

 

I've always adjusted them so they "felt" about the same. The self adjusters will take care of the rest.


A limited slip is going to feel different than an open diff. I have lockers in my 4x4 and had a limited slip before I installed the locker.


They tend to push a little in a turn. It feels weird at first. You think something is wrong if you didn't know better.


My locker really took some getting used to. I actually coast around turns to avoid the tire chirping and pushing.


Even going in a straight line feels different. It will push one way getting on the gas and go the other way when you let off.


My point is to make sure it's not your limited slip making you think you have a brake problem.

 

Why would it matter whether it's L/S?

It's late so I'm probably not thinking clearly, (less... clearly ha ha) but... both wheels will be off the ground for the initial, manual adjustment. Just like when adjustments are made with a non-limited slip. In that case, the other wheel turns backwards. Still, either way BFD?

Shoes used to be ground to fit the drum as part of a good brake job. This isn't done anymore, but even so there is only so much slack that can be taken up and this will be mostly done in the manual adjustment. If there are self-adjusters, they will not really do anything until the shoes start to wear in appreciably.

 

Adjustment wouldn't matter if limited slip or not. I was "thinking" maybe he felt some dragging while driving.


Didn't want him to think his brake adjustment was causing it if he was just feeling the effects of the L/S.


Sorry, didn't mean to cause confusion.

 

Thanks for all your input guys, as usual I think I made a simple mistake and then over thought it, and as usual it takes me considering every ones input to make sense of it. After bleeding I tried using the auto adjusters to bring out the shoes (like I read on some site), and when the pedal was still low I attempted to adjust the star wheels with the truck on the ground (oops). My thinking that the LS made a difference just came from me trying to turn the whole assembly wheels tires and now one over tightened shoe. Any way, Ill pull the drums and see what I've got and start a manual adjustment from scratch. Then Ill post my embarrassing findings, as usual. Like I said in post#1, "Im no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination", and need you guys.

 

When I do routine adjustments on my non-L/S rear brakes, I don't have the whole axle in the air, just one wheel at a time. Can't get away with that on a L/S.

 

Hm. No self-adjusters, then? Didn't think of that! Coffee is starting to kick in, though.

 

Gooood morning FTE! Yawn., I wont be able to touch the truck untill tonight at the earliest, but I just wanted to clear one thing up so it doesn't ad to the confusion. I do have self adjusters, also everything on and in the axle is new with the exception of the side carrier bearing adjusters in the 3rd member, which were in good shape. OK back to my coffee, I hope everyone has a great holiday. Im taking Mom shopping, Ill never understand why women need to go down every isle, and look at every item, when they already know exactly what they want and have a list???? Oh well Ill just enjoy the time I have left with her, and let her enjoy looking at every item at the Market.