Front section of shaft is 26 3/16" from transmission flange to center of bolt holes on carrier bearing. Measurement for rear is 42 1/2" from center of same bolt holes to center of rear yoke. Subtract the 1" or so for the slip joint.

 

Scotty what's your favorite cleaner? I have adopted your acid approach and between the acid, sand blaster, my heavy duty citrus degreaser, and my dremel brushes for fine details I am picking up at harbor freight, rust elimination is becoming a strength of mine.

 

I use the purple degreaser on steel and iron but it attacks aluminum. I use the orange citrus for aluminum but, it also works great on steel.

I really like Berryman Chem Dip for engine parts and anything greasy. Takes paint off too. Nasty stuff though.

Then for the degreased ferrous metal I use that Kleen Strip phosphoric acid. Rusty parts look new. If you forget and leave parts in too long they are still ok but will have a black "parkerized" look that will brush off.

My pressure washer and these cleaners do just about everything.

 

Give this stuff a try, it's high at $35/gallon but with a pressure washer makes quick work of sludge and concrete hardened grease like found on a transmission. I usually hit parts with this first then use your acid routine, then quickly oil or paint. Light years ahead of where I was a year ago. I apply it with a heavy duty spray bottle.

 

Anybody have a recommendation for a good paint stripper? I was getting quotes for media blasting and about fell down.

Looking at $400-$500 just for the inside of the cab. A few $K for the entire truck. I have way more time than money so media blasting probably isn't an option.

 

I finally got a minute to log in. Great progress on your truck, thanks for all the pictures.

 

Thanks Fred. Big swap meet coming up the weekend after Thanksgiving in Phoenix. I need to find a driver side vent window and some other parts.

 

Thanks to FTE members I was able to repair my door latches and find the CORRECT springs for them. All the areas pointed to, I welded up and reshaped, replaced or fixed somehow.

Instead of trying to weld holes on thin metal and re-drill them, I drilled the holes larger and welded in a hard washer as a boss for the shaft going through it. I had to weld on the shaft and turn it in the lathe for a snug fit.

 

 

Sorry for the blurry pics. I also used a file to reshape the detents on the shaft to fit the spring. The inside handle now has actual detents to lock the door and the shaft and handle move smoothly and no wiggle at all.

 

Somebody had stuck a bolt where the rivet had been and it really wallered the holes out. Had to weld them shut and re-drill them. I didn't want to buy a whole box of rivets so I made a pin from a shouldered Grade 8 Caterpillar bolt I had. Put a hard washer on the end and welded it on through the hole.

 

You can kind of see the shape of the detents. Still have to do the passenger door.

Thanks to the posts from other members, I was able to do this and find the springs. I just thought I'd share the extra steps I had to do to fix the wear in mine.

 

I had to resurface my T98 brake drum and re-line the band. I put the specifics in a T98 Brake specific post if anyone interested.

 

Cleaned up and painted the shifter and brake linkage. Adjusted the brake.

 

Haven't figured out what I want to do about the trans cover yet. T98 sits higher than my T9 did. I might raise up the hump part of the cover a little so I can get the bolt in the brake lever and the shifter hole can go back to stock size.

I'll post pics of whatever I end up doing at that time. For now it's cut and bent enough to get it screwed down.