D3TE Project
#1
D3TE Project
So I bought this long block, having supposedly been recently rebuilt. It was dressed up to look like a 428CJ in a Mustang, but the new owner felt it was down on power and it was removed by the hot rod shop I purchased it from. My intention is to use it in my '64 Country Sedan to replace the original 352, but I have some fears regarding mating of this later engine to my Cruise-O-Matic. I haven't yet pulled my CS's engine yet, but wanted to establish that:
A) The crankshaft on the trans end looks different from other FE cranks- like it has an insert pressed into the center. Should/ can I remove this?
B) I didn't get a flex plate with this engine- do you think it's internally balanced and can use my 352 flex plate?
I roughly measured the stroke, which appears to be in the 3 3/4" range, which I hope eliminates the possibility of this being a 330MD ( fingers and toes, and eyes crossed ), but I haven't yet pulled a head ( D2TEAA castings ) to measure the bore.
The date code reads 4K1, which I infer as December 1, 1974.
Any insights here? Thanks!
A) The crankshaft on the trans end looks different from other FE cranks- like it has an insert pressed into the center. Should/ can I remove this?
B) I didn't get a flex plate with this engine- do you think it's internally balanced and can use my 352 flex plate?
I roughly measured the stroke, which appears to be in the 3 3/4" range, which I hope eliminates the possibility of this being a 330MD ( fingers and toes, and eyes crossed ), but I haven't yet pulled a head ( D2TEAA castings ) to measure the bore.
The date code reads 4K1, which I infer as December 1, 1974.
Any insights here? Thanks!
#2
#3
1964 FE flexplate has 153 teeth. 1965/76 352/360/390 COM/C6 flexplate (C5AZ-6384-D) has 184 teeth.
1964 and earlier FE engines have a different bolt pattern on the engine block that the rubber insulators bolt to, than 1965/76 engines.
4K1 = October (K) 1, 1974 (4) / A = January, M = December, the letter I is skipped.
D2TE-AA heads have hardened valve seats.
FE's use a different harmonic balancer than FT's. FE's include a single sheave pulley that I don't see on this balancer.
Get the ID engineering number off the harmonic balancer, post it.
1964 and earlier FE engines have a different bolt pattern on the engine block that the rubber insulators bolt to, than 1965/76 engines.
4K1 = October (K) 1, 1974 (4) / A = January, M = December, the letter I is skipped.
D2TE-AA heads have hardened valve seats.
FE's use a different harmonic balancer than FT's. FE's include a single sheave pulley that I don't see on this balancer.
Get the ID engineering number off the harmonic balancer, post it.
#4
#6
That's how most all of our FE's that came out of pickups are. Only Grandpa's '65 and my '66 have the single groove pulley made as part of the balancer.
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#8
#9
<p>If the balancer is right, that's not an externally balanced crank. Find the stroke, or get the numbers off the crank to see what it really is.<br /><br />The pilot bushing is easy to remove, pack the space behind it with grease, fill the hole up with grease, and find a socket that just barely fits inside the hole. Then hit the socket with a hammer The pilot bushing will pop right out.</p><p> </p><p> </p>
#10
Thanks for the info folks.
I checked all around the harmonic balancer, but I can't find any stampings on it anywhere ( no timing marks, either! ). I can't find my puller to get it off and look at the inner surfaces.
I'll try to get the crank number this weekend to better figure this one out.
I checked all around the harmonic balancer, but I can't find any stampings on it anywhere ( no timing marks, either! ). I can't find my puller to get it off and look at the inner surfaces.
I'll try to get the crank number this weekend to better figure this one out.
#11
I checked out the crankshaft, and it's a cast 390, code 2UA. The pan had some residual oil and gloppy chunks that appear to be startup lube that was used in assembly ( I hope ). My big question: do you guys know that I can directly replace my '64 352 with this '74 390? My objective is to get the car running again with the least hassles, so any advice prior to starting is appreciated.
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