So recently I welded in a new driver side floor, rocker arm, sill, and cab corner. Before I started this project, I could not find an information on how to go about it and what I needed. So I decided to write this repair thread to inform everyone on how I did it. This is my first thread so hang in there.

For starters, I bought a 1995 Ford F150 XL 5.0L 2WD. In buying it, I made note of the usual Ford rust i.e. the rear wheel wells. Unfortunately, I missed the massive rust rot right beneath my own feet.


So, I stashed enough cash away and in June I started cutting.

[IMG]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-img_1960_9ba23246724f7acb6bdc38456a2287504cf1ca1d. jpg[/IMG




I cut, cut, and cut. Then it came time for fitting

 

So if you plan on starting this kind of project, it is best that you gather up everything you will need or ever possibly need. You will need it! lol I bought all five pieces online as a kit so as to speak. You can get them seperately from Raybucks online. In the kit was the driver side inner floor, outer floor, sill, rocker arm, and cab corner. My rust was far enough in that I needed the whole kit. If yours does not look as bad as mine, save some money and buy the pieces separately.

Anyways, back to the project. As I stated in the beginning, I had no information on how to conduct this project or where to start. So by logical reasoning, I figured I had to weld in the inner floor first. I was using a Eastwood MIG 175 welder. It worked perfectly and flawlessly.

After I welded in the inner floor, I realized that in the end everything how to line up with the door frame. So I jump from the floor to the sill piece. But first I had to take care of the inner piller rust. I took a piece of the inner floor that I didn't use and welded that over it.



Next I welded in the sill. Quick tip: I spot welded the sill piece in place. So instead of welding the edged all the way around the sill. I used the existing holes from where I drilled out the old spot welds and welded the sill to those. I simply, filled those hole with weld. It did the trick and it was fast, easy, and clean. Very factory looking.



Next I welded in the front pillar. A quick not here. The rocker arm comes as one piece. The Ford factory set up is a two piece that doesn't go completely across. So I cut the middle section out of the new rocker arm so I could preserve the factory look and it would save me time.



Then, I welded in the rear pillar.




I will also make a note here. There that I had to cut aluminum seat belt angle bracket from the old sill and grind the bolt off. The new seat belt is bolted right behind the rear pillar. Be sure to buy a new bolt.

Next I welded on the cab corner. Yes, I did it with the bed on. It was sloppy welding, but it worked. The only thing I was unable to do was grind the welds down. I figured I can do that later when I pull the bed for other restorations.

I don't have a picture of the cab corner welded in, so you'll have to use your imagination. I will note here that you will need to do some custom metal work, because the cab corner does not completely rap around the visible side of the rear pillar. No biggy, I saved ever single piece of panel I cut. It was simply to cut, shape, and weld a custom plate in.

Lastly, I welded in the outer floor piece.



Now, I will explain further why I did it this way. The outer floor piece has a raised edge, which the weather stripping clips into. This raise edge must line up with the same raised edges on the front and rear pillars. This way, the door will close on an even surface, and seal out the sound and weather.

After, I welded in that piece. I primed all bare metal and undercoated all the new steel.




Now I have a solid, rust free floor. Also while I was working on this project, I also replaced the driver side fender and the radiator support. It worked out perfectly this way, because I was still waiting for different parts and tools.

I hope you guys like this thread. I hope to post a thread on the radiator support and front body bushing replacement. Those are two other issues that I could not find a informative thread with pictures and instructions.

If you don't feel like reading and just want the necessary steps and information to conduct this project yourself. I made a video detailing the instructions.


My future plan for this truck is to make it into a prerunner or at least run a long travel suspension. In the meantime, I will be posting videos on each project and restoration that will help me achieve this goal. My youtube channel is called The Minute Masters.

Thanks again for reading!

 

Nice work. I love seeing old rusty trucks being restored.

 

Nice work and good thread.

 

Nice write up. I'll be tackling basically the same rot on my project.

 

Thanks for taking the time to write this up.

By the way, I was a little confused as I started reading this thread. A "rocker arm" is a component in the valve train inside the engine, "rocker panels" (or just "rockers") are the sheet metal along the bottom edge of a vehicle.

 

<p>good job, except for one minor correction. that is a rocker panel. a rocker arm is what sits on a head and opens the valves</p>

 

Thank you tjc transport for the correction!

 

Great job. I have a few holes in mine but nothing that bad. Thanks for the writeup.

 

Good write-up with great pix! I'll be facing this task sometime down the road!

Roger