I swapped out my fuel pump this weekend due to my fuel level sensor float coming off the arm. Got a new tank pressure sensor because I broke the old one trying to swap it.

Reinstalled everything.

It started up just fine. Although I did turn the key to the ON position for a few seconds and listened for the fuel pump- couldn't hear anything (but I can't remember hearing the fuel pump energize with the old pump either). Let it idle for a few minutes. Drove it out of the garage. Parked it on the street overnight. Drove it to work (15 minutes) this morning.

Tried to go to lunch. Turned the key and it wouldn't crank. Scangauge reads 11.6 or so volts. Checked all sorts of fuses and they all are good. Pulled a few relays- nothing melted.

Ideas?

 

Try starting it in neutral.

 

Tried that. Still no crank.

 

Crankshaft position sensor?

If I were to roll it in neutral and then put it in gear, would that maybe move the crankshaft enough and maybe the sensor would pick up another spot?

Long shot......

 

CPS will not keep the starter from cranking the engine.


When you twist the key to the crank position do you even hear any click noise?

 

Nope. The dash lights go out like they do when it cranks- except nothing.

The THEFT light goes out after a few seconds with the key in the ON position.

 

Then check the easy (cheap) stuff first.


Are the battery connections CLEAN and tight?


What about where the battery cable terminals connect to the battery cables?


Follow the positive battery cable down from the battery to the starter, especially where it passes near to the passenger side exhaust manifold to be sure it is not burned.


Not sure what year vehicle and engine you are referring to, but that 11.6 volts is kinda low. Is that being read with the key off or with the key in the crank position?

 

2000 5.4L with 180k miles.

Voltage was on ScanGauge with key in ON position.

Battery connections are tight. Unknown age of battery. No signs of weak battery before- fired up right away normally.

I'll check the fuseable link. And the cables. And get the battery load tested.

 

Try jumping the battery. If cranks, you need battery. If not could be one of three things.
1. The ground strap from engine to frame rail has corroded or come loose.
2. The starter or starter solenoid has failed. (Solenoid is on the starter)
3. Bad cable from battery to ground (negative black cable) or to starter (red positive cable)

 

Should be my starter relay on the firewall. If I jump the 2 terminals it starts.

 

Try to push the key in while holding it in crank. Might be a worn ignition switch.

 

Battery came back good. Checked the ignition switch under the steering column with a multimeter and it checked out good.

Followed the diagnostic procedure in my Haynes manual for the "in vehicle check" for the starter. I can get the truck to start by jumping the 2 terminals on the starter relay on the firewall with a screw driver. I'll replace that and it should solve my problem.

 

Not necessarily.

Did you bother to check to see if the starter relay is even getting its signal to turn on? If it isn't and you replace the relay, you'll be back here in a day or so bitchin' that it still won't crank.

If you do not troubleshoot it properly, you can expect that luck will be the primary factor in getting it right.

 

What model, engine, 2wd/4wd, and year vehicle is this?

 

Relax man. I got it covered. Step one in the diagnostic procedure is to jump from the positive post on the battery to the small lug on the relay. If the relay was good, that jump should provide it with the signal.