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Hi everyone, I'm new here I just bought an E250 2007 used and it is giving me misfire in cylinder 8. I took it to my local mechanic and he diagnosed it as a faulty spark plug in cylinder 8. However he said he was unable to remove the spark plug because a washer or something was stuck in the well.
I took a look inside with an inspection camera and I can't see to figure out what it is I was blowing it with a blowgun and I saw some bits come out does anyone have any idea what's in here or how to get it out?
I've been trying all day with magnetic pickup tools and picks but it doesn't seem to be budging.
Here are some pictures I took with the snake camera if anyone knows what it or if it is safe to take out that spark plug like this please let me know. Thank you
That #8 hole on V8's can be a bear, limited access directly overhead---assuming you've removed the fuel rails etc?
I'd start by inserting a screwdriver or small chisel into the hold and with the help of your inspection cam attempt to wedge the tool tip between the thing and one of the plug wrench flats. With a bit of persistent force you might be able to dislodge it from under the wrench flat and remove it from the hole with a magnet or forceps-like tool.
Took me a moment to actually see this indeed might be a washer standing on its edge, cannot imagine how it came to be stuck up the plug.
I can honestly say in all my time here we've NEVER---so far---seen anything like this.
If this forum isn't of much help try posting this in the V8 or V10 Modular Motor forums----someone there might have encountered this in another chassis.
Best of luck---let us know how you work this out please.
Very interesting. Agree with Tim's suggestion of a dental pick.
I don't think I've ever seen anything like this either. If you'd like I can move this to the modular engine forum like J W suggested. Just let me know.
That #8 hole on V8's can be a bear, limited access directly overhead---assuming you've removed the fuel rails etc?
I'd start by inserting a screwdriver or small chisel into the hold and with the help of your inspection cam attempt to wedge the tool tip between the thing and one of the plug wrench flats. With a bit of persistent force you might be able to dislodge it from under the wrench flat and remove it from the hole with a magnet or forceps-like tool.
Took me a moment to actually see this indeed might be a washer standing on its edge, cannot imagine how it came to be stuck up the plug.
I can honestly say in all my time here we've NEVER---so far---seen anything like this.
If this forum isn't of much help try posting this in the V8 or V10 Modular Motor forums----someone there might have encountered this in another chassis.
Best of luck---let us know how you work this out please.
Wow thanks for the detailed reply. I've noticed that the cylinder was hard to access but I saw in another thread others said it wasn't necessary to remove the fuel rail so I didn't but its a pain in the butt to work on that cylinder.
I'm not so familiar with fuel rails but I'm assuming its this metal thing I circled in red, but how should I go about removing it without spilling fuel?
I've tried magnetic pickup tools but I can't get one with a small enough tip, it kept grabbing onto the top of the spark plug.
Indeed my mechanic said he's never seen something like this as well, I suspect some foul play from the ford dealership that inspected my car.
The "fuel rails" on that side would be the metal flex line covered in blue split loom tubing. Following it along its length you'll see it has smaller tubes leading into the fuel injectors, almost right next to the head of the COP after it and the plug are installed.
Since you're new to Modular Motors its best to not fool with them just now.
Not sure I'd agree that whatever is sabotage from the dealership--as much as we want to blame them for so much I'm not sure what their motivation would be. Even the most cynical or skeptical of us might agree its "just one of those things........" Maybe not----I've been wrong once or twice before.
<p>Have to agree with J W, it seems extremely unlikely that someone vandalized your van. Spark plug wells are more or less vertical, and stuff can fall into them from time to time. It's not common, but it happens. </p><p>I remember awhile back someone on a Facebook group was posting photos of something similar that happened to his 4.6L Crown Vic. Drove him nuts that he couldn't get a socket around the plug. Not sure how that turned out, but the 4.6 is nearly identical to the engine in your van. </p>
JW if thats the fuel rail it doesn't seem to be in the way of the cylinder, but the thing I circled is almost directly over, do you know what it is called? and is it okay to take that off? I know I shouldn't be messing with this too much as I am not familiar but I just want to get this one spark plug out because I don't have and can't justify paying $400 to remove one spark plug at the dealership.
Tom would you happen to remember where you saw it on facebook?
It seems to me anything that thin and small should be able to be blown out pretty easy, but it also looks like part of a Heli Coil insert. So if it seems to be attached to something at one end be careful there's trouble ahead.............
</p><table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="1" class="tborder" style="background:rgb(209, 209, 225); border-color:rgb(11, 25, 140); border-style:solid; border-width:0px 1px 1px; color:rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,lucida grande,arial,helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:13.3333330154419px; line-height:normal; width:100%"> <tbody> <tr> <td>Tom would you happen to remember where you saw it on facebook?</td> </tr> <tr> </tr> </tbody></table><p>
</p><p>Yup, it was on the CrownVic.net group. I just found the post, it was from over a year ago. Here's the original post:</p><p>"My #2 spark plug blew out years ago, fixed it with an off brand timesert. Long story short, it's time for new plugs and somehow the hex part of the plug that the socket hooks onto is flush with the cylinder head and I can't get a socket to grip it. I've cleaned out the cylinder and even tried chiseling around the spark plug with no success. Anybody have an idea of how to get the old plug out without removing the head? Honestly if it comes down to removing the head I'd almost rather replace the engine as extreme as that sounds."</p><p>Looks like econolinemanor may be onto something, perhaps this one is a repaired blowout. </p>
Update: Just got the washer out!! spent hours trying to get this thing out, tried with a blowgun first but only made it stuck more. After trying multiple dental picks they all couldn't get it out so I made my own pick out of an old metal fence tie and magnetized it with a big ceramic magnet and out it came! Now all I have to do is replace the spark plug. By the way the walls of the spark plug well seem pretty dirty is it necessary to wipe the walls with a cloth before I take out the plug?
Here is the culprit anyone know what this is?
Thanks Tom for finding that post though, and everyone else ! thank you very much
LOOKS TO ME LIKE A SON OF A BI TCH LOLOLOL ... told you a dental pic would work..i just didnt say what type..as a plumber i have 4 different ones of varying thickness for pulling things out of tight places
Newbie not sure what the circled device is---sorry to admit that.
Typically the hole is "challenging" getting to the spark plug and I've somewhat partially almost mastered that process----it only takes about every 1/4" drive extension, universal joint you own. Here's a link that might be helpful, about working around the #8 plug hole stuff in your way: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ug-change.html
There are a lot of threads in the Modular Motor forums about changing plugs. Do keep in mind all motors in that series; 4.6, 5.4 & 6.8 are so similar, so much can translate between the different CID's. Things like spark plugs are one such item.
This quote from a thread is fairly extensive and follows what I do:
Originally Posted by tmehrkam
I finished my first plug change on a modular engine. The job is simplier than it was on the older trucks. The biggest differance is that an air compresser and torque wrench is an absolute necessity.
I spent less than five hours total. I did not have to crawl inside the engine compartment.
I removed one plug at a time and changed it. I started with plug one and changed them in sequance 1 through 10. The only thing that I had to remove was the Plumbing between the throttle plate and the air filter. I also unplugged the PCV valve and moved the hose out of the way.
The following image shows the tools required for the job.
I checked the plug gaps before starting the job. All were in spec and none had to be adjusted.
I labled each spark plug box 1 through 10 and stored the old plug in the approperate box after it was removed. I always do this as it allows me to keep track of the condition of each cylinder.
This is the sequance that I used to complete the job.
Blow out the dirt arround the COP.
Remove the 7mm screw holding the COP.
Pull up and remove the COP.
Press the tab and unplug the COP.
Blow out the spark plug hole.
Inspect the plug using a mirror.
Blow out again if necessary.
Loosen the plug using the spark plug socket and rachet.
Blow out again.
Inspect again.
Unscrew and remove plug
Lightly coat the plug threads with anti-seize.
Put the new plug in the spark plug socket.
Carefully start the plug. Make sure it is not cross threaded.
Torque the plug to 132 in lb.
Pull the spark plug boot off the COP.
Put ignition grease on the inner surface of both ends of the new boot and iinstall the boot on the COP.
I did not even have to cuss or throw wrenches over the fence. All and all a easy job.
I do increase my plug torque to 21-22 ft/lbs, using a dedicated "click" type torque wrench. At the very first click STOP applying torque---you're done!
Nickel-based anti-seize is my choice--it will withstand higher temps than the aluminum-based version. Its NOT necessary to use copper-based.
Always feel free to ask questions----we're here to help!
08-31-2015, 09:25 PM
