1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Panic in the garage

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  #16  
Old 09-01-2015, 12:14 PM
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Those tap removers are pretty neat, hope I never need one!
I have heard of the EDM method of removal, but the last thing I wanted to have to do would be to remove the engine and tear down the top end. I think I would of walked away until April if that happened!
As you are a machinist I doubt I am showing you anything new, but thanks for playing along LOL..cool thing about the mig is since it is point and shoot you can get the torch head in places you cannot easily get to with tools. It saved my butt and maybe will save someone elses in the future.
 
  #17  
Old 09-01-2015, 12:45 PM
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Worst case scenario if broken too deep to weld would be to drill it out (try a reverse twist drill bit, may catch and spin it out if lucky), drill/retap, insert a helicoil if threads get damaged. Tony, those extractors are similar to my homemade 2 fingered version above. I still have a good stock of "piano wire" spring steel wire sizes on hand from my R/C airplane and boat days. stiff enough without being brittle, available at good hobby shops catering to modelers.
If you don't have tap oil on hand try kerosene with a very small amount of motor oil added or if really desperate try baby oil. Never go in dry...
 
  #18  
Old 09-02-2015, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Good save! I have a couple times been able to get out a broken tap by cutting a couple lengths of hardened "piano wire" or even a couple of small allen head cap screws (with larger taps) that were of a diameter to just slip into the tap flutes and protrude out of the hole enough to clamp a pair of vise grips onto the two ends and turn the whole thing. Kinda resembled a set of fangs or a long spanner wrench. I use a cutting oil call Tap Magic that works really well. I used some tiny taps on occasion in my jewelry making work.
When doing the weld method it's best to give it plenty of time to cool completely before attempting to turn it out, the welding heat can cause the tap to expand more than the surrounding piece locking it even tighter until it cools. The heating and cooling can also help to loosen it.
Lots of great information on this thread. It hasn't happened to me yet but probably will. Reading what Ax is saying reminds me of a tip I read about in Farm Journal magazines one time. They were saying to try to gently heat the broken and stuck bolt, tap, etc with a propane torch then apply bee's wax or candle wax to the area where the bolt threads in. As it cools the wax will flow into the threads hopefully helping you loosen the stuck fastener. Never tried it myself. But thought it was interesting .
 
  #19  
Old 09-02-2015, 12:53 PM
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I've blown the broken tap out with a torch but it is a miserable job if it is a blind hole and you have to really take your time.
TractormanBill
 
  #20  
Old 09-02-2015, 05:25 PM
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Nice operation on the tap Drop-top. I had a "panic in the garage" moment myself just a few minutes ago. I opened my BEvERage cooler and it was empty! Noooo!

When it comes to broken bolts, taps and helicoils I may as well through out there my fancy for Timesert thread repair. ++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plu . These work great, I really prefer them over heli's. A bit pricy though.
 
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