Painting info
#1
Painting info
I'm painting my truck on a budget using a cheap enamal paint from tractor supply and was looking for some advice as to what to use as a wax/grease remover before painting. Ive read people use everything from glass cleaner to prep-sol
what have you guys used? what worked good and what didnt? I'm using a cheap enamal paint from tractor supply.
Thanks!
1993 F250HD extended cab 4X4 7.3L
what have you guys used? what worked good and what didnt? I'm using a cheap enamal paint from tractor supply.
Thanks!
1993 F250HD extended cab 4X4 7.3L
#2
Are you painting over the top of the old paint without even sanding any of the old paint off? IMO, I'd knock it down some that way the new paint get's good adhesion. If it's cheap enamel like you said it's going to peel off. To make it last longer and look better, after painting, I'd go over it with a couple of 2 or 3 clear coats. JMO though.
#3
#4
I personally would stay FAR away from TSC Majic brand paint. Their Valspar paint was superior to the Majic junk.
If you want to keep costs down, go to what ever brand tractor store you wan tot paint the truck. IE if you want Ford blue go to NewHolland and get their blue. If you want IH red, go to Case/IH and get their red.
There is a MAJOR different in the quality of paint with only a minor price increase
If you want to keep costs down, go to what ever brand tractor store you wan tot paint the truck. IE if you want Ford blue go to NewHolland and get their blue. If you want IH red, go to Case/IH and get their red.
There is a MAJOR different in the quality of paint with only a minor price increase
#5
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#6
Sand to 600, remove any rust (spotblaster for small areas, sanding WON'T work.) Epoxy primer, then spray prime and most paints will stay on. UV resistance will be another matter however. You get what you pay for. Dollar for dollar, Eastwood paint (gallons) is cheap as rattle cans, and meant for a car.
#7
I scuffed my truck with 600, primed it with rustoleum rusty metal primer mixed 50-50 with walmart acetone. Sanded the primer with 1200, wiped down with acetone on a rag, then shot some gloss tan mixed 50-50 with acetone. 2 packs of sand paper, 1/2 gallon primer, 1/2 gallon paint, 2 gallons acetone (mixing, wipedown, and gun cleaning). I spent less than a hundred bucks. I went to the hardware store, picked out the color I liked, and they mixed it up for me. I had them make me a rattle can of it too, for touch up. shot well, looked good from 6 feet, and kept my truck from rusting. However, you can't paint over it (oil based, you have to remove it all to repaint with anything but oil based). Also, do not tape off over the new paint for at least a week. If you want a 2 tone, you need to let the paint set up will before you tape. Good luck, have fun!
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#8
#9
Pics of your business when you get done.
To each his own, and if you ask an opinion to 10 people, likely you will get 10 different answers. That being said, 1200 grit final sand before paint IMO, is not aggressive enough to hold the paint. not saying it won't work, just my opinion.
To each his own, and if you ask an opinion to 10 people, likely you will get 10 different answers. That being said, 1200 grit final sand before paint IMO, is not aggressive enough to hold the paint. not saying it won't work, just my opinion.
but 1000 is perfect to sand clear when you need to blend panels.
#11
1200 may very well have been too fine. It held up well enough for what I put it through, but the other guys who have commented about it have most likely been doing this longer/better than I have, so I'm gonna defer to there expertise. If they say 1200 is too fine, I'm gonna guess I just got really lucky. Thank you guys for the correction - I hate giving bad/wrong advice
#12
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dave2180
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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02-09-2009 07:15 PM