1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Low Compression Numbers -What to do?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 08-27-2015, 05:28 PM
hulaman's Avatar
hulaman
hulaman is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Low Compression Numbers -What to do?

OK, I have an original Flathead v8 239 8RT in my '52 F6 (never overhauled)
and she won't start.

She ran fine for 5 years I've had her but getting sluggish, one day she didn't get out of the parking lot.

I did all the ignition and fuel tests and finally the compression check.

I've come to the conclusion I need to replace my head gasket for passenger side but wondering if I should also go ahead and do the driver side also.

Here are the numbers, Dry then Wet

1.100, 120
2. 30, 30
3. 30, 70
4.100, 120

5. 95, 120
6. 92, 100
7. 62, 75
8. 118,120

to me it looks like the rings are going bad on 5-8 except 7 points to gasket?

- I will replace the head gasket on 1-4

Should I replace the gasket on 5-8 also or is it a given that if you replace one side gasket you should just do them both?

Thanks in advance as I always get great feedback!
 
  #2  
Old 08-27-2015, 06:27 PM
ALBUQ F-1's Avatar
ALBUQ F-1
ALBUQ F-1 is offline
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NM
Posts: 26,799
Received 607 Likes on 377 Posts
I would pull the intake manifold and watch the valves. Valves sticking on engines not used regularly is real common. Check the valve clearances. If there's nothing obvious there, go ahead and pull the heads. You can check the valves and seats at that point, check cylinder condition.

All that said, the center cylinders seem to wear out their rings faster, likely from washing by fuel. If you yank the engine you can address any problems it has, maybe just a hone and new rings and cleaning up the valves. Or a full-on rebuild. All worth it to have a reliable, peppy engine!
 
  #3  
Old 08-27-2015, 06:40 PM
toby tough's Avatar
toby tough
toby tough is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Clitherall, MN.
Posts: 1,409
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If it was me I would do both and have the valves checked. Maybe a valve job. #2 ,3, and 7 are a concern. I'm sure one of the other guys will pop in soon with their ideas. Is it blowing smoke?
 
  #4  
Old 08-27-2015, 06:43 PM
toby tough's Avatar
toby tough
toby tough is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Clitherall, MN.
Posts: 1,409
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
See what happens when you yak on the phone for a few minutes.
 
  #5  
Old 08-27-2015, 08:12 PM
hulaman's Avatar
hulaman
hulaman is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
I would pull the intake manifold and watch the valves. Valves sticking on engines not used regularly is real common. Check the valve clearances. If there's nothing obvious there, go ahead and pull the heads. You can check the valves and seats at that point, check cylinder condition.

All that said, the center cylinders seem to wear out their rings faster, likely from washing by fuel. If you yank the engine you can address any problems it has, maybe just a hone and new rings and cleaning up the valves. Or a full-on rebuild. All worth it to have a reliable, peppy engine!
Thanks, I never thought pulling the intake manifold was an option to get more info.

My reluctance to pulling the engine for a full rebuild is after the rebuild I still would only have 106 hp and I could get a crate engine with 300. This is a F6 flatbed and 106 hp is slow starting from the red lights.
 
  #6  
Old 08-27-2015, 08:16 PM
hulaman's Avatar
hulaman
hulaman is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by toby tough
If it was me I would do both and have the valves checked. Maybe a valve job. #2 ,3, and 7 are a concern. I'm sure one of the other guys will pop in soon with their ideas. Is it blowing smoke?

Not blowing smoke...
and a valve job basically means pulling the engine, correct?
Not sure I have the funds for that since I don't have the gear to re-seat them properly.

thanks for your reply
 
  #7  
Old 08-28-2015, 06:47 AM
cstempert's Avatar
cstempert
cstempert is offline
Tuned
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by hulaman
Thanks, I never thought pulling the intake manifold was an option to get more info. My reluctance to pulling the engine for a full rebuild is after the rebuild I still would only have 106 hp and I could get a crate engine with 300. This is a F6 flatbed and 106 hp is slow starting from the red lights.
I would say the HP isn't the point, if you want a fast stop light to stop light vehicle, get a half ton or a Volkswagen and build a stancer. Rear end ratio in an F-6 won't move you fast no matter how much HP is on front of it.

Nothing beats the sound of a flathead
 
  #8  
Old 08-28-2015, 07:34 AM
artscott61's Avatar
artscott61
artscott61 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: southwest missouri
Posts: 1,529
Received 78 Likes on 48 Posts
Where do you live I want the flat head
 
  #9  
Old 08-28-2015, 09:10 AM
Skalywag's Avatar
Skalywag
Skalywag is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frankfort, Ohio
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Try running some Marvel Mystery oil in the engine for awhile. Sometimes it frees up the valves which seem to be the culprit in a lot of cases.
 
  #10  
Old 08-28-2015, 04:28 PM
38 coupe's Avatar
38 coupe
38 coupe is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 0
Received 109 Likes on 57 Posts
You can do a valve job with the engine in the truck. It isn't much fun, but it is possible. Make sure you understand flathead valve adjustment options before you start in.
 
  #11  
Old 08-28-2015, 04:29 PM
hulaman's Avatar
hulaman
hulaman is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by cstempert
I would say the HP isn't the point, if you want a fast stop light to stop light vehicle, get a half ton or a Volkswagen and build a stancer. Rear end ratio in an F-6 won't move you fast no matter how much HP is on front of it.

Nothing beats the sound of a flathead

Yes, I agree! Thank you for reminding me we live in a hurry-up culture that races to the next red light.
 
  #12  
Old 08-28-2015, 04:32 PM
hulaman's Avatar
hulaman
hulaman is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Skalywag
Try running some Marvel Mystery oil in the engine for awhile. Sometimes it frees up the valves which seem to be the culprit in a lot of cases.
Thanks! I am thinking now that's a solution for the drivers side #7 but since she won't start due to the #2 and #3, I will have to replace that gasket.
 
  #13  
Old 08-28-2015, 04:34 PM
hulaman's Avatar
hulaman
hulaman is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 38 coupe
You can do a valve job with the engine in the truck. It isn't much fun, but it is possible. Make sure you understand flathead valve adjustment options before you start in.
Well gosh I did not know you could do a valve job with engine in. When I get the head off I will find the real culprit. I can learn most things but the expense of tools might hold me back. Thanks!
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mlevario99
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
24
07-16-2007 11:54 PM
mfriesen
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
4
10-24-2004 09:48 AM
yemarp
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
2
08-10-2003 07:18 PM
quads
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
04-11-2002 10:15 PM
Steven Schenck
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
03-09-2000 09:34 PM



Quick Reply: Low Compression Numbers -What to do?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:28 AM.