Low Compression Numbers -What to do?
#1
Low Compression Numbers -What to do?
OK, I have an original Flathead v8 239 8RT in my '52 F6 (never overhauled)
and she won't start.
She ran fine for 5 years I've had her but getting sluggish, one day she didn't get out of the parking lot.
I did all the ignition and fuel tests and finally the compression check.
I've come to the conclusion I need to replace my head gasket for passenger side but wondering if I should also go ahead and do the driver side also.
Here are the numbers, Dry then Wet
1.100, 120
2. 30, 30
3. 30, 70
4.100, 120
5. 95, 120
6. 92, 100
7. 62, 75
8. 118,120
to me it looks like the rings are going bad on 5-8 except 7 points to gasket?
- I will replace the head gasket on 1-4
Should I replace the gasket on 5-8 also or is it a given that if you replace one side gasket you should just do them both?
Thanks in advance as I always get great feedback!
and she won't start.
She ran fine for 5 years I've had her but getting sluggish, one day she didn't get out of the parking lot.
I did all the ignition and fuel tests and finally the compression check.
I've come to the conclusion I need to replace my head gasket for passenger side but wondering if I should also go ahead and do the driver side also.
Here are the numbers, Dry then Wet
1.100, 120
2. 30, 30
3. 30, 70
4.100, 120
5. 95, 120
6. 92, 100
7. 62, 75
8. 118,120
to me it looks like the rings are going bad on 5-8 except 7 points to gasket?
- I will replace the head gasket on 1-4
Should I replace the gasket on 5-8 also or is it a given that if you replace one side gasket you should just do them both?
Thanks in advance as I always get great feedback!
#2
I would pull the intake manifold and watch the valves. Valves sticking on engines not used regularly is real common. Check the valve clearances. If there's nothing obvious there, go ahead and pull the heads. You can check the valves and seats at that point, check cylinder condition.
All that said, the center cylinders seem to wear out their rings faster, likely from washing by fuel. If you yank the engine you can address any problems it has, maybe just a hone and new rings and cleaning up the valves. Or a full-on rebuild. All worth it to have a reliable, peppy engine!
All that said, the center cylinders seem to wear out their rings faster, likely from washing by fuel. If you yank the engine you can address any problems it has, maybe just a hone and new rings and cleaning up the valves. Or a full-on rebuild. All worth it to have a reliable, peppy engine!
#3
#5
I would pull the intake manifold and watch the valves. Valves sticking on engines not used regularly is real common. Check the valve clearances. If there's nothing obvious there, go ahead and pull the heads. You can check the valves and seats at that point, check cylinder condition.
All that said, the center cylinders seem to wear out their rings faster, likely from washing by fuel. If you yank the engine you can address any problems it has, maybe just a hone and new rings and cleaning up the valves. Or a full-on rebuild. All worth it to have a reliable, peppy engine!
All that said, the center cylinders seem to wear out their rings faster, likely from washing by fuel. If you yank the engine you can address any problems it has, maybe just a hone and new rings and cleaning up the valves. Or a full-on rebuild. All worth it to have a reliable, peppy engine!
My reluctance to pulling the engine for a full rebuild is after the rebuild I still would only have 106 hp and I could get a crate engine with 300. This is a F6 flatbed and 106 hp is slow starting from the red lights.
#6
Not blowing smoke...
and a valve job basically means pulling the engine, correct?
Not sure I have the funds for that since I don't have the gear to re-seat them properly.
thanks for your reply
#7
Thanks, I never thought pulling the intake manifold was an option to get more info. My reluctance to pulling the engine for a full rebuild is after the rebuild I still would only have 106 hp and I could get a crate engine with 300. This is a F6 flatbed and 106 hp is slow starting from the red lights.
Nothing beats the sound of a flathead
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#10
#11
Yes, I agree! Thank you for reminding me we live in a hurry-up culture that races to the next red light.
#12
Thanks! I am thinking now that's a solution for the drivers side #7 but since she won't start due to the #2 and #3, I will have to replace that gasket.
#13
Well gosh I did not know you could do a valve job with engine in. When I get the head off I will find the real culprit. I can learn most things but the expense of tools might hold me back. Thanks!
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