Front Brake Line Routing with Firewall mount Booster
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Typically the Pass side front hard line is run from the flex hose down the back of the front crossmember to a T fitting near the drivers side frame. The other end of the straight leg of the T is run to the driver's side flex hose. The center leg of the T is plumbed with hard line along the inside of the frame back to then up the firewall to the front brake port of the MC and/or proportioning valve. You can vary any of this to better fit your application/aesthetics. Be sure to give the line a way to expand/contract with weather changes between fittings i.e. Z or S bend, hump. DON'T use a loop. Clean, neat, well fitted hard lines with smooth even radius bends (use a tubing bender) without kinks is the mark of good craftsmanship that is easily noticed. If you miss-bend, don't attempt to restraighten/rebend, throw it away and make a new one (or use it for a pattern to make a new one with the mistake corrected), brake line is pretty cheap. 3' lengths of 1/16" brazing rod makes good easily worked patterns. If you need longer than 3' overlap two pieces 4-6" and wrap tightly with electrical or duct tape. buy or borrow a high quality double flairing tool and learn how to make correct double flairs, or buy preflaired lengths of tube from the parts store to reduce risk of leaking fittings/cracked flairs (make your patterns first and measure length with a soft tailor's tape measure from a fabric store or sewing department, then buy the next slightly longer premade tube or combination of two tubes and a joiner fitting.) Use plenty of well fitting line clamps to hold the lines firmly in place. If you can shake the line between clamps, add another clamp. I Like the billet aluminum line clamps Speedway sells. High quality, good looking at a reasonable price. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/3-16-I...-12,99631.html
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