I want to put a 37 gallon vertical fuel tank in bed of truck. I do have a ARE fiberglass on it with sliding side windows. The back slides forward not front to back.

the tank has a 2" opening for a fuel line or some type of cap.



on the left end there is a 3/8 inch tap i can use to route a line from tank to some line on the trucks tank to get fuel in. I was going to use a solenoid which is normally closed with switch in cab.

I am trying to figure out best way to get fuel in tank from outside short of removing screen from sliding window and just poking nozzle and hose in and fill that way.

here is shot of inside of cover.




and shot of outside driver side. THe area by window is appx 8" wide.




I have looked at racecar supply sites and can not find something that really looks like works to me.

any thoughts.??

 

I have a very similar setup where I mounted an ATTA 45RBR into the bed of my F-250 with a topper on it. I simply made the drivers side screen to the topper removable/lift-able and then put the fuel line through the window. I did this on a 7K mile trip across the country from GA to WA and back and it worked great.

Being able to fill up every 600-700 miles with a 10K lbs travel trailer is really nice instead of every 200-300 miles.

 

thanks man.. i appreciate the reply. I had a brainstorm and did a search on summit racing for fuel doors. They had a lot of nice ones for sure.

THEN it hit me... how do you get fuel in a boat tank. right deck port.




cut a hole in the side of the cover and install this dude,, they have one for diesel, and run 1 1/2" hose to adapter on tank and walla

man sometime i amaze myself and then other times i wonder how i got to this chair..

UPDATE:

went out and measured the pipe down from fuel cap to tank.. it starts out at 2" and tapers to 1 1/2 couple inches down.. should i go with 2" or 1 1/2 size port?? not sure how big a diesel nozzle is.

how about venting for tank.. it has a built vent assembly already.

 

I would go with the larger fill cap so that you can use the fuel station at truck stops, which uses a large fuel nozzle and the fill up time is cut in half.

 

Using my mind's eye, I think the 1 1/2" inside diameter is plenty big for the truck stop nozzle. You can always take a sec to measure a truck stop nozzle. Those bad boys fill the truck fast.

 

You are going to cut a hole in the side of the topper in order to not have to get in the back of the truck to fill up? I guess that seems like a lot of work and introducing a potential spot for the topper to leak, but to each their own.

Even at the big truck filling stations I had no problems getting the fill nozzle to the tank through the window at the rear of the topper in order to fill the tank. Then I would get out of the truck, fill the OEM tank and close up the topper while the OEM tank is filling. I also have Pilot/Flying J RV Plus card that allows me to fill up $100+ without having to reset the pump.

Your choice, but maybe give the tank a try without the port in the side of the topper before going off the deep end.

 

well first I would clean out the bed of your truck....bed looks to be filled with things....

 

I am with you carl2591. I like to do things different/custom. I would either use the marine fuel filler with a thru-hull fuel vent to vent the tank outside or have a shop that specializes in fiberglass work build a cubby/fuel door like the one on the bed of our trucks and attach a filler neck from a wrecking yard to it. I think be able to fill up from the outside would be much nicer than climbing over gear in the bed to fill up. JMO.

 

I would cut a hole in that topper in a heartbeat! Grab a holesaw use masking tape to tape the area up and drill the hole. Then use some sort of backing plate on the inside of the topper. Before I did all that I would have the new cap painted to match the topper so it doesn't stand out like a sore thumb.

 

Cutting a hole is not a hard thing.. was going to back it with large thick stainless steel fender washers and stainless steel screws.. If i put a nice bead of rv sealing caulk under the deal I don't see a leak point and with it being a shiny stainless steel finish it wont rust.

I found this one with a 30 deg angle.. when i sorta do a mockup, lt look like the hose will be almost straight down into tank fitting. even better. I was looking at west marine and they have a bunch of fuel vent devices used on boats what would work fine.. they can go out top or side.




now to figure out how to get into tank with hose..

 

Call the manufacture and see if they have an option to weld a nipple on instead of the cap screw. If you're not objective to the idea of cutting the "screw" portion of it off and clamping a hose. I would prefer some sort of flare at the top of the neck

 

not sure i follow what you are saying.. weld a nipple on what part?

the 1 1/2 hose slides on the bottom of the deck port and clamps on, easy enough.

I could do like we do for the carpet cleaning machine that used gas.. We take a bit of copper tubing long enough to go into tank, cut a hole in rubber part of fill tube on truck, slide the copper in the hole into tank, take a old inner tube and wrap under the tube and over the tube, put a couple of band clamps on and head down the road. it work fine.




this is my 2000 e250 5.4 gas. the hose is in vent tube and there is a pump to push gas for carpet cleaning , 18hp BS motor..

 

I was talking about getting fuel from the outside of the truck to the auxiliary tank... It's been a long few months for me...

 

Sounds like a lot of rigging things up to me, but to each their own. I am happy with a switch activated pump to get fuel from the aux tank to the OEM tank through a ported vent hose with a second port for proper venting.

Then I fill the aux tank by getting in the bed and putting the hose through the window to get some extra line. Do as you wish because it is your money, time and truck but I needed something that would not be a problem when I am towing 2500 miles from home.

 

You could always order a different window