No Start
#31
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maine (NorCal Native)
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Ah, No biggie, just a couple of passionate folks making the world go around ...
Personally, I would get one of these from a 7.3N/A, some build their own.
On the motor ...
Subjective ... They will move, the only resistance is the o-rings, the injector line nut itself does not actually touch the caps.
Ensure they are fully seated.
These days they are made out of crap plastic at very high production speeds, this makes for very very poor plastic parts.
Dwell time in the mold after the plastic is injected improves the skin but takes time, time is money and they don't give a hoot about quality as long as they work when the leave the door!
The copper washers are Injector seals, They go in before the injector, you didn't pull the injectors, so yes, they are un-used at this time ...
That is an adapter for a timing light, it is un-used these days, it must remain there to maintain line length.
The plastic thing is just a shield to protect the surface where the timing light hooks up, it should be up even with the top of the diameter it fits.
If you don't know, that is #1 cylinder.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
On the motor ...
Subjective ... They will move, the only resistance is the o-rings, the injector line nut itself does not actually touch the caps.
Ensure they are fully seated.
These days they are made out of crap plastic at very high production speeds, this makes for very very poor plastic parts.
Dwell time in the mold after the plastic is injected improves the skin but takes time, time is money and they don't give a hoot about quality as long as they work when the leave the door!
The copper washers are Injector seals, They go in before the injector, you didn't pull the injectors, so yes, they are un-used at this time ...
The plastic thing is just a shield to protect the surface where the timing light hooks up, it should be up even with the top of the diameter it fits.
If you don't know, that is #1 cylinder.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
#32
#38
I made a "T" using brass fitting from the hardware store. I removed the original single-port return fitting and the T is not secured with any bracket. I plan on filling the fuel filter this afternoon and try starting the truck. Do I need to worry about bleeding air from the fuel system? Also, can I delete the fuel line from the first injector to the fuel filter and just plug the port on the fuel injector cap? Is there any advantage to this? One less point for potential air intrusion?
#39
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maine (NorCal Native)
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Hows the air that is constantly pumped into the filter going to get out ... Some will build up in the filter, some will go through the IP, Someplace you want NO AIR!
Nothing but headaches come from a improperly modified return system.
If you don't know, The return system is what brought Diesels to the masses because the design allows a diesel to be restarted WITHOUT BLEEDING the system!
Before the return system was invented, Diesels that ran out of fuel were a freaking ..... to get bled and running again!
The rule was DO NOT run them out of fuel PERIOD! I have seen operators fired for doing so!
Yes, If you have a weak IP, Cracking injector lines can speedup bleeding between IP and injectors. With a good IP, it only takes a couple compression strokes to bleed all the air out of the injector lines through the injector without cracking lines ...
I cannot count the times I have started a completely dry system from tank through injectors in less than 60 seconds ... Three 20 second start cycles!
WITHOUT BLEEDING as the system is designed.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
#41
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maine (NorCal Native)
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It is ...
I do not do it nor believe in it, it makes for a harder dry start and doesn't solve the issue ... Only an air tight return system solves the issue.
I have tried it both ways and many others, I am now a firm believer in an air tight 7.3N/A style setup.
EDIT:
A good way to punish test for drain back, park uphill ... On the flip side, park downhill if you have a leaky system and it helps prevent the drain back!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
I do not do it nor believe in it, it makes for a harder dry start and doesn't solve the issue ... Only an air tight return system solves the issue.
I have tried it both ways and many others, I am now a firm believer in an air tight 7.3N/A style setup.
EDIT:
A good way to punish test for drain back, park uphill ... On the flip side, park downhill if you have a leaky system and it helps prevent the drain back!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
#42
#43
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maine (NorCal Native)
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The line nut is softer than the injector, the injector is likely undamaged, the line nut on the other hand, may very well be destroyed!
You may get lucky removing it and trying again, depends how hard it was tightened ... Not typically unfortunately!
Those lines are a specific length, replace it only with one from the same position!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
You may get lucky removing it and trying again, depends how hard it was tightened ... Not typically unfortunately!
Those lines are a specific length, replace it only with one from the same position!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
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