Hey all...

Looking for a circuit that is only energized with the ignition switch on to power my air compressor. Can I tie into the under dash fuse panel? If not there, where?

I have everything wired but the power source; I have a toggle switch to cut power to the whole system but fool that I am, I'll forget to turn it off someday and when the tank leaks down the compressor will run the batteries down.

I'm can wire a house but auto wiring is mostly over my head. Help anyone?

Thanks, CedricR.

 

What size (amp) air compressor? Or, are you merely engaging a clutch for a commercial mounted one?

 

30 amp compressor for train horns and the occasional air tools use.

CedricR.

 

You can find in your owners manual in the fuse section. Look for customer accessory and tie it ion that. Use a test light just to make sure the power cuts off when the ignition is turned off.

 

Try fuse location # 27 Description, Ignition run power feed (customer access) it is only 10 amp but should work.

 

I would suggest you use the 10amp Circuit as the Switch Circuit and use a #12 Wire from the Alternator B+ Post via a SPST Relay. Both of course protected with a fuse.

I put the Ambulance Package on mine when I got all the Parts together from take offs and what not. Don't know why Ford didn't put a (+) Connection for the Customer.

 

I've got mine wired to a switch that I can run with the key off since filling up tires can sometimes take longer than I would like.

The wife's, I pulled the "truck on" signal off the GPR under the hood and went through a relay. That kept most of the wiring to the battery, relay, compressor, etc. under the hood.

 

Been a while... things get busy when you're trying to learn/do something.

In owners book, fuse #27 says fog lamp relay and fog lamp indicator @ 5 amps.
There's no fog lamps on this truck and the fuse that is in that slot is 10 amp.
So... maybe that would work BUT how to get at the connections in the fuse block? I took it loose and tried to get it to where I could see how to open the back but no joy there.

There is fuse #4 in the power distribution box under the hood for air suspension
@ 15 amps (per the book) and this truck does not have that either. But I'm still back to how to connect.

Should I just take it to a shop somewhere and have them hook this up so that if it catches fire I can at least sue them?

 

Can I hook to the correct terminal on the GPR with an inline fuse? Sounds simple but like I said, auto wiring is above my head.

 

Even the radio 15 amp fuse will work. Pull fuse, put wire in fuse location, shove fuse back in.

I like to run power off the starter relay on the passenger fender, but your not getting keyed power from their.

 

 

Any downside to splicing into the trailer battery charge wire that runs to the trailer wiring plug ?

 

I did similar for hooking up back up lights on the trailer wiring instead of wiring all the way up to the reverse switch, which will cause an amp draw in turns cause a dim light. I went into the plug and took it apart and connoted the wire with the back up feed wire and crimped a new pin, so there was no splicing in the loom. I personally don't like splicing wires just because it is now a fail point and would rather go into the plug with a new pin.

 

No matter how you source power it, go through a relay.


Thomas (post #11 above) has the right idea.

 

You want to use a relay. Hook the power straight to the battery with an inline fuse. Wiring will go from the battery to fuse to the the relay, and out the relay to the compressor. The GPR will just act as a trigger to turn the relay on and does not need to be fused.