1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Please help with maintenance checklist for 1986 F150

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 08-23-2015, 09:47 PM
Kyler7700's Avatar
Kyler7700
Kyler7700 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Please help with maintenance checklist for 1986 F150

Hey guys. I'm more than likely about to be buying a 1986 short wheelbase 4x4 f150. It's got a 351w with auto tranny. The truck has been sitting for a year now, but had just undergone a fresh rebuild before the owner moved out of state and left the truck behind. I'd really appreciate y'alls help coming up with a checklist of things to do before I put the truck back on the road. I know the obvious fuel pump, filter, and oil change. But what else should I do? Thank you in advance for any and all help!
 
  #2  
Old 08-23-2015, 10:00 PM
Troy_455's Avatar
Troy_455
Troy_455 is offline
Freshman User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'd drop the transmission pan and change the filter. Flushing the radiator out is probably not a bad idea either.
 
  #3  
Old 08-24-2015, 06:55 AM
Kyler7700's Avatar
Kyler7700
Kyler7700 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Troy_455
I'd drop the transmission pan and change the filter. Flushing the radiator out is probably not a bad idea either.
Thanks for the advice! Anything else you might add?
 
  #4  
Old 08-24-2015, 07:36 AM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Don't assume anything was done correctly. You should drain and refill the transfer case ad both differentials. However, the diff's aren't easy to drain and usually requires a suction gun.

Also lube the u-joints and slip yokes on the drive shafts as they are frequently dry. And, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, and change the engine oil and filter.
 
  #5  
Old 08-24-2015, 07:40 AM
bruno2's Avatar
bruno2
bruno2 is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Broken Arrow , OK
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
I would plan on packing the bearing up front. Also, a good brake inspection should be done to be sure you aren't leaking anywhere.
 
  #6  
Old 08-24-2015, 11:14 AM
Kyler7700's Avatar
Kyler7700
Kyler7700 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Don't assume anything was done correctly. You should drain and refill the transfer case ad both differentials. However, the diff's aren't easy to drain and usually requires a suction gun.

Also lube the u-joints and slip yokes on the drive shafts as they are frequently dry. And, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, and change the engine oil and filter.
I really appreciate everyone's advice. You guys rock! I posted this on another forum the other day and still have yet to get a reply. So here's what I have on my list so far.

-fuel pump and filter changed
-drop and clean gas tank
-oil change along with oil filter
-both differentials and transfer case drained and refilled
-grease u joints and yokes
-brake inspection
-tranny flush

Sound like a pretty solid list to y'all? Also, what do you mean pack the bearing up front?
 
  #7  
Old 08-24-2015, 01:38 PM
ctubutis's Avatar
ctubutis
ctubutis is online now
Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver Metro Area, CO
Posts: 22,405
Received 72 Likes on 56 Posts
I'll also suggest the brakes, make sure the mechanisms (including the parking brake cables) aren't rusted together and stuck.
 
  #8  
Old 08-24-2015, 01:39 PM
1986F150six's Avatar
1986F150six
1986F150six is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Sheffield, AL
Posts: 6,477
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 14 Posts
You might want to consider removing the spark plugs and putting a small amount of oil in the cylinders to lubricate the rings before spinning the engine.
 
  #9  
Old 08-24-2015, 05:17 PM
bruno2's Avatar
bruno2
bruno2 is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Broken Arrow , OK
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
The wheel bearings on the front axle. Pull those down, inspect the bearings and re pack. Probably should do hub seals when you do the bearings. Don't get in a big hurry to buy new wheel bearings. Do a good bearing inspection once you get them cleaned up. The bearings in the front are more than likely made with better steel than what you will get from Chinese stuff the parts stores sell.


The 4x4's have more than one seal per side I believe. Maybe Gary Lewis or Ctubutis will post an exploded drawing of the parts on the D44 TTB.
 
  #10  
Old 08-24-2015, 05:49 PM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Originally Posted by bruno2
... Maybe Gary Lewis or Ctubutis will post an exploded drawing of the parts on the D44 TTB.
Ask and ye shall receive:


 
  #11  
Old 08-24-2015, 08:16 PM
Kyler7700's Avatar
Kyler7700
Kyler7700 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Do you guys think picking this truck up for $650 is a good deal? It's a Florida truck and owner says it's rust free and that it was his daily driver before he moved out of state. It does have a broken transmission mount.
 
  #12  
Old 08-24-2015, 10:01 PM
bruno2's Avatar
bruno2
bruno2 is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Broken Arrow , OK
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Gary, on my D50 there is a seal that seals the hub lock assembly, and one that seals the back side of the bearings where the hub slips on the spindle itself. Also, there is one where the axle shaft goes in. So there is 3 on the D50. Is the D44 the same?
 
  #13  
Old 08-24-2015, 10:17 PM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Kyler - $650 isn't bad to pay for a running truck. But, can you drive it? If you can't drive it you need to expect lots of other things to be bad.

Branden - I don't think the D44 has a seal where the hub hits the spindle. But, I don't remember for sure.
 
  #14  
Old 08-25-2015, 07:24 AM
Kyler7700's Avatar
Kyler7700
Kyler7700 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Kyler - $650 isn't bad to pay for a running truck. But, can you drive it? If you can't drive it you need to expect lots of other things to be bad.
Just a little over a year ago it was being driven every day. But the owner quit driving it when the transmission mount broke cause the driveshaft hits the gas tank now.
 
  #15  
Old 08-25-2015, 07:36 AM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Then drive it to test it. If you take it easy then you may be able to test it out quite a bit.
 


Quick Reply: Please help with maintenance checklist for 1986 F150



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:10 PM.