You've checked oil in the hpop but have you checked your crankcase oil level?

 

I'm with F350-6 you may have left out one of the oil galley plugs under the valve cover when you changed your injectors. Time to open it back up (valve covers)and watch for oil leaks.

 

After verifying your oil level (pulling sticks uses some up), this would be a good time for a Cody test. You want to make sure the oil isn't escaping from the head faster than the pump can supply it.

 

You've done several of these. Just ship those...

1. Oil:

a. Contaminates

b. Correct Grade and Viscosity

c. Miles/Hours on oil

d. correct level in both Oil Pan and HPOP (1/2" to 1" below top of pump).

2. Try a "Known good IPR" (If you replace ICT, CMP, IPR, EBP, etc. that was failing but, still starts the engine, toss it in your tool box for just this reason). A Good IPR: Coil = OHMS = 10.2 - 10.6 = GOOD

3. If you don’t have a known good IPR, you can try putting 12vdc to IPR with a connection to eliminate the PCM.

* Don't back probe the IPR as it will send voltage to the PCM. Use a spare or, similar connection from the Batt (+) / (-) directly to the IPR with the connection removed. This will eliminate the PCM as a possible cause.

4. Move the ICP to the other head and see if you begin building any pressure. If you have an oil leak in the head, and it’s not too bad, you may build pressure in the other head port signaling the issue may be in D/S Head. In any case, that will give you somewhat of an idea if the leak is in the oil rails.

4a. Use an M12 1.5" adapter (same as fuel port adaptor on the 7.3) with a Grease Gun Whip (Dead Heads the Pump).

** Note: All supplies should be rated at 5,000 psig or greater.

a. Remove the ICP and screw in the M12 Adaptor with whip attached and female air fitting attached.

** 6.0: Command the IPR Closed using a Scan Tool (use a value of 90)

** 7.3 Put 12vdc from battery to the IPR (maximum 15 minutes, then a 15 minute break). Many Scan Tools will not allow the commanding of the IPR on the 7.3 your results may differ.

You can make a jumper from any plug which fits. This way you not only check the integrity of the Injector "O-Rings" but the HPOP Fittings and pump as well for seal leaks.

b. On the passenger’s side, remove the oil fill. On the Driver’s side remove the PCV Dog House (you may want to get new O-Rings for the Dog House as they tend to swell over time making reinstallation difficult if not impossible).

c. Supply 90 psig Shop Air. After a few minutes (it has to evacuate all the oil from the system), if you have a leak, it will be evident at either Valve Cover.

Another way is to use a Fuel Port Adaptor and place it in the ICP or Oil Rail Plug hole and put shop air to it and listen to the valve cover area for air leaking at the base of an injector from a defective O-Ring.

4b. Lastly, or you may want to try this in lieu of using the fuel port adaptor, you can remove the valve covers and visually inspect the base of the injector for a leak while cranking the engine.

5. Another way to check the HPOP is to "Dead Head the Pump". As above, putting 12vdc to the IPR, using adaptor #D94T-50-A and monitoring the ICP and EBP circuit so you can see both line pressures.

6. If you can't identify issues with any of the above, your HPOP has probably given up,

 

That's where I was going to go. Pull that ICP sensor put a rubber tipped air gun hooked to shop air about 100PSi or so, WRAP IT WITH A SHOP RAG, and apply pressure. Listen for leaks. If you hear air escaping, it's an o-ring problem. Been looking for my video of it...


If there is an o-ring leak at the top, this is what you will hear. If it's one of the lower ones, you will hear it leaking air into the crank case.

 

I'll get some gauges and fittings this weekend and see what I can figure out. Thanks everyone for the imput, I'll get back to you.

 

Alright, so I put the icp on the passenger side tonight to read the psi over there. And I was only getting 50, vs the driver side which built up to 100. Now I'd assume the passenger side would be where the leak is?

 

I guess you didn't pressurize the head with shop air, or did you?

 

Shoot, didn't think about that. Was gonna get a new nozzle for my air hose. The one I got is kinda cracked. Will give it a try tomorrow.

 

Okay, I applied shop air to each head with the valve covers off. Passenger side seemed just fine, didn't hear anything or see any bubbles or oil leaking from anything, went to the drivers side, and got oil coming out of the oil spill spout on the numer 8 injector, which is a AE injector. So is it suppose to come out of that injector?

 

I never had any oil come out of any spouts when I applied shop air. I would bet there is a bad o-ring on number 8. Do you have any extra sets? Riff Raff has the Alliant ones (the same ones Ford sells) for $8-$10 cheaper than I could get them from the local dealerships. In fact they said his price was cheaper than they paid. I wouldn't recommend the Dorman ones from the Parts stores. JMHO

 

got a set of Alliant ones I was gonna use on my other truck. Will pull the injector replace o-rings and go from there.

 

Have someone crank the motor and verify the oil is just pouring out of that spout at a rate fast enough to prevent oil pressure.

Who built the injectors? Sounds like a call to them is in order with what you've found.

 

Pulled number 8 injector, verified the o rings are good. Put a new copper ring on and put it back together. Oil still comes out of the spout when cranking or when applying air to it. Should I send this injector in to be rebuilt? that guy I had to do it said he would fix it for free if there was any problem.

 

If oil is pouring out the spout, then it's an internal issue. O rings or the washer won't help.

Of course the injectors are supposed to spit oil from those spouts, so we're talking about an extraordinary amount of oil, right?

If so, then yes you'll need to send that injector back in.