Rust to an "Oregon oakie" is just valuable patina
#31
Ok.. so.. green meanie gave up its life for Oregon oakie...
It seemed like hours of blasting trying to dig out rust. When you blast you always discover things you cannot see with the naked eye.. in this case I found the rear floor under the jute felt padding that looked just fine turned into swiss cheese after blasting.. so.. I get to replace the rear floor..
Sand just plain sucks... its a great cheap cutting medium but it gets in every nook and cranny. I spent three hours blowing it out and Im still not completely done..I have to go ever it again before Im ready to coat... sand holds moisture.. moisture means rust,,, so I have to get it all out... I intend to thin paraffin based undercoating and let it run into all the hidden crevices before I coat
Replacing the floor actually can work right into the plan of building a cage inside the truck. I splurged and bought a bender.. Ive always wanted one.. so now Ill get to learn the fine art of tube bending. Plan is to do an interior cage going trough the floor and tying to the frame with poly bushings at stress points.. thats the plan anyway.. we will see after I cut the floor out..
Instead of patching it in several places with small patches I'm just going to take the whole thing out and make a new floor. I cant replicate Fords stamping (I dont think I can.. I haven't looked) so I was going to make the floor out of heavier ga. anyway..like 14.. and build some extra cross braces. I'm doing a rear seat elimination in favor of building a storage area that will hold pelican cases and a sleeping platform for my wife... while we tour.. maybe I could even curl up if I get tired enough.. we don't have kids and there wont be any passengers so the fold down seat is a waste
I also am going to weld up all the trim holes as the truck will be de-chromed in favor of paint or some type of armor coating. I used Xtreeme liner on my f600 resto on the lower quarters and back of the cab and then sprayed body color (cat yellow) over it. It came out really well.. and Ive used it before and it sprays well... but there are a couple of newbies out there that might even be better
The 205 transfer case master overhaul kit showed up.. as well as a twin stick kit.. and a million little pieces to blast and coat
Onward....
It seemed like hours of blasting trying to dig out rust. When you blast you always discover things you cannot see with the naked eye.. in this case I found the rear floor under the jute felt padding that looked just fine turned into swiss cheese after blasting.. so.. I get to replace the rear floor..
Sand just plain sucks... its a great cheap cutting medium but it gets in every nook and cranny. I spent three hours blowing it out and Im still not completely done..I have to go ever it again before Im ready to coat... sand holds moisture.. moisture means rust,,, so I have to get it all out... I intend to thin paraffin based undercoating and let it run into all the hidden crevices before I coat
Replacing the floor actually can work right into the plan of building a cage inside the truck. I splurged and bought a bender.. Ive always wanted one.. so now Ill get to learn the fine art of tube bending. Plan is to do an interior cage going trough the floor and tying to the frame with poly bushings at stress points.. thats the plan anyway.. we will see after I cut the floor out..
Instead of patching it in several places with small patches I'm just going to take the whole thing out and make a new floor. I cant replicate Fords stamping (I dont think I can.. I haven't looked) so I was going to make the floor out of heavier ga. anyway..like 14.. and build some extra cross braces. I'm doing a rear seat elimination in favor of building a storage area that will hold pelican cases and a sleeping platform for my wife... while we tour.. maybe I could even curl up if I get tired enough.. we don't have kids and there wont be any passengers so the fold down seat is a waste
I also am going to weld up all the trim holes as the truck will be de-chromed in favor of paint or some type of armor coating. I used Xtreeme liner on my f600 resto on the lower quarters and back of the cab and then sprayed body color (cat yellow) over it. It came out really well.. and Ive used it before and it sprays well... but there are a couple of newbies out there that might even be better
The 205 transfer case master overhaul kit showed up.. as well as a twin stick kit.. and a million little pieces to blast and coat
Onward....
#32
Ok.. build update.. since I have three going right now simultaneously they go slow
More blasting and painting of parts...
Installed a 36 gallon oversize tank... it fit without any issues
I backed it up with a trailer hitch
I may modify the hitch to accept an aluminum skid plate.. it makes the perfect mounting point for one
JUST IN CASE......
Wet paint "owies" will be fixed one last time when I spray the entire frame with a finish coat and the undercoat appropriate rust points with paraffin type coating ( frame intersections etc)
I went to "Inline Tube" for a new brake line set for the entire truck.. all fit perfect except right front ..which I will see once the front end is back underneath where it ends up (they were more than amenable to build a new line for me).
The basted supercab is in the shop and Im still drilling out spot welds.. Ive done at least fifty but the front cowl wont budge yet,,, I need to get to some rust on the inside cowl.. the worst place possible
baby steps
More blasting and painting of parts...
Installed a 36 gallon oversize tank... it fit without any issues
I backed it up with a trailer hitch
I may modify the hitch to accept an aluminum skid plate.. it makes the perfect mounting point for one
JUST IN CASE......
Wet paint "owies" will be fixed one last time when I spray the entire frame with a finish coat and the undercoat appropriate rust points with paraffin type coating ( frame intersections etc)
I went to "Inline Tube" for a new brake line set for the entire truck.. all fit perfect except right front ..which I will see once the front end is back underneath where it ends up (they were more than amenable to build a new line for me).
The basted supercab is in the shop and Im still drilling out spot welds.. Ive done at least fifty but the front cowl wont budge yet,,, I need to get to some rust on the inside cowl.. the worst place possible
baby steps
#33
Hi Cam, not sure how I missed this thread, looks like you've been busy!
Once I finally get myself some property I will be on the lookout for a good offroad forklift, Pacific Industrial here in Seattle has one with a 361 FT for power! It runs, they keep it around because it will lift anything they have on the property. And no they won't sell it, I've asked!
Sam
Once I finally get myself some property I will be on the lookout for a good offroad forklift, Pacific Industrial here in Seattle has one with a 361 FT for power! It runs, they keep it around because it will lift anything they have on the property. And no they won't sell it, I've asked!
Sam
#34
Hi Cam, not sure how I missed this thread, looks like you've been busy!
Once I finally get myself some property I will be on the lookout for a good offroad forklift, Pacific Industrial here in Seattle has one with a 361 FT for power! It runs, they keep it around because it will lift anything they have on the property. And no they won't sell it, I've asked!
Sam
Once I finally get myself some property I will be on the lookout for a good offroad forklift, Pacific Industrial here in Seattle has one with a 361 FT for power! It runs, they keep it around because it will lift anything they have on the property. And no they won't sell it, I've asked!
Sam
Sam.. you never know how life might work out.. if we move this next year out of cali Ill probably sell the M80... because transport costs will equal cost of lift itself.. I highly recommend this model.. Ive owned tow and they are awesome off road... go up 30 feet... pick up cars like they are paper... but ..they are beasts... I love my 300 fords.. and as you know I looked for them all over.. before finally getting a couple.. having one in the lift is just frosting on the cake
I think you will find they command pretty steep prices but occasionally one in the 5k range that isnt thrashed come up... I keep doing little things to mine...by the time its done it will be a nice forever lift
Cam
#35
#37
A little update.. this project is awaiting parts... and more work on removing rust from the cowl in the cab
The cowl removal has proved to be a real hassle even after cutting every spot weld I can detect it still stubbornly is staying together... so my backup plan will be to cut the cowl below the windshield line and above the windshield sprayers to access the inner cowl..
Pics will follow
The parts I am amassing are as follows:
All the parts necessary for a rear wheel disc brake conversion using eldo calipers
A ranger overdrive
The model 205 and 435 rebuild kits
4.88 gear conversion from the 4.10s originally with true tracs for front and rear
Yukon cro-mo 35 spline axles front and rear
Reid front knuckles with Sky Manufacturings crossover steering
Superlift 4 inch front springs with poly bushings everywhere
37" BFgs or similar.. and the decision to blast and use my original mags or get something more exotic
and a plethora of other parts in between.. when I finish a part of this build it will be new or "news'd"
This is going to be designed as a working truck and NOT a show truck.. it will have functional coatings on it.. not show paint... I want to be able to drive it anywhere and do anything I want with it...
Im about half way there.. as you can tell its a boatload of money and I cant justify it all at once to momma.. especially with several projects underway at once.. I would say summertime I will make some progress on this build
Ive been taking bites out of each one
The cowl removal has proved to be a real hassle even after cutting every spot weld I can detect it still stubbornly is staying together... so my backup plan will be to cut the cowl below the windshield line and above the windshield sprayers to access the inner cowl..
Pics will follow
The parts I am amassing are as follows:
All the parts necessary for a rear wheel disc brake conversion using eldo calipers
A ranger overdrive
The model 205 and 435 rebuild kits
4.88 gear conversion from the 4.10s originally with true tracs for front and rear
Yukon cro-mo 35 spline axles front and rear
Reid front knuckles with Sky Manufacturings crossover steering
Superlift 4 inch front springs with poly bushings everywhere
37" BFgs or similar.. and the decision to blast and use my original mags or get something more exotic
and a plethora of other parts in between.. when I finish a part of this build it will be new or "news'd"
This is going to be designed as a working truck and NOT a show truck.. it will have functional coatings on it.. not show paint... I want to be able to drive it anywhere and do anything I want with it...
Im about half way there.. as you can tell its a boatload of money and I cant justify it all at once to momma.. especially with several projects underway at once.. I would say summertime I will make some progress on this build
Ive been taking bites out of each one
#39
#40
The only issue with light duty trucks and driveshaft brakes is I dont think they are sized big enough to stop the truck.. and no driveshaft no brakes..
http://ck5.com/forums/threads/np205-...lipers.149069/
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...nder-anything/
http://www.highangledriveline.com/e_brake.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...brake-kit.html
http://www.tsmmfg.com/np205.html
http://www.motorcityk5.com/np205parkingbrakekit.aspx
Your thoughts?
Sandblasting 101
Stay off the panel for extended periods.. shoot straight on,, move move move
I use 90 psi 25 cfm 1/2" commercial hose, 1/8" long tips out of a 150 pound pressure blaster ( Bad Boys blaster,, big chinese versions).. its all driven by a 10hp compressor
I havent had any warping issues with this setup whatsover
When I owned a powdercoating company we had a 50 hp Ingersol rand screw type compressor and a 2 1/2 inch hose running plastic media.. that could warp a panel.. the BB.. not so.. although I imagine new sheet metal might have an issue
DIRECT PRESSURE BLASTER BB-300D-10 - BADBOY BLASTERS, INC.
#41
I've heard mixed reviews about the disk setups too, I much prefer a drum style, I have one on a Clark 5spd and when i test drove the f700 it was in, it was the only brake that worked and it was way out of adjustment, but it still had no problem at all stopping that truck!
Here's what I would do, you can setup the drum brake off an np200 on a 205! I hear it farly simple too...
NP200 Brake on 32 Spline Ford Married NP205 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
g741.org ? View topic - Project: Old Guard - lots of pictures
Sam
Here's what I would do, you can setup the drum brake off an np200 on a 205! I hear it farly simple too...
NP200 Brake on 32 Spline Ford Married NP205 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
g741.org ? View topic - Project: Old Guard - lots of pictures
Sam
#42
Ok.. back from overseas and time to get into the projects for the summer.
Purchased a set of new 4" Superlift springs for the front...
I had a heck of a time getting the right bushings... stock factory bolts were 5/8"... all the replacement bushings were for 1/2" bolts... so.. I made it easy..I modified the front spring perches to accept a 1/2" bolt
easy peasy
I have located a 14 bolt and have torn it down.. its blasted and ready to build
Im still vacillating between it and the 60 rear... further to follow..one is stronger and cheaper to build... the other bolts right back in and is more money to build ...
Im also looking for a D60HP front end.. and as you know they are rare and get premium dollar here on the west coast.. Ive found one but the owner wants 1800 for it and Ill have that in it just building it... ouch
I also grabbed a COOT ATV project..like I need more... its already in full teardown and buildup.. its going to be a busy summer
pics to follow
AND A BIG thanks to fte members sending me those links on HP 60s... Ive been calling on every one
Purchased a set of new 4" Superlift springs for the front...
I had a heck of a time getting the right bushings... stock factory bolts were 5/8"... all the replacement bushings were for 1/2" bolts... so.. I made it easy..I modified the front spring perches to accept a 1/2" bolt
easy peasy
I have located a 14 bolt and have torn it down.. its blasted and ready to build
Im still vacillating between it and the 60 rear... further to follow..one is stronger and cheaper to build... the other bolts right back in and is more money to build ...
Im also looking for a D60HP front end.. and as you know they are rare and get premium dollar here on the west coast.. Ive found one but the owner wants 1800 for it and Ill have that in it just building it... ouch
I also grabbed a COOT ATV project..like I need more... its already in full teardown and buildup.. its going to be a busy summer
pics to follow
AND A BIG thanks to fte members sending me those links on HP 60s... Ive been calling on every one
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