As usual everything with the van is tougher. I have a 98 E250 5.4l. Clutch is gone on the AC compressor. I have the belt off and the clutch/pulley flops(technical term)around. Before I cause myself undue stress, how do I remove the compressor. From the front it looks like everything up front will need to be removed to get it out. To go out the rear there is a motor mount in the way. Any guidance will be much appreciated.

 

If you are replacing just the clutch, compressor stays on. (no need to re-charge R-134)


The clutch plate is held on by 1 center screw (8mm or 5/16") ( there are shims in this hub that allow for proper gap of clutch/coil face)(need to check on new install-
approx. .020-.025 gap as I recall)


The coil is held on to compressor body by an external snap ring, after
that is removed it should pry off with screwdrivers/lever of some sort...


Keep an eye on location of electrical connection for coil and re-install in
the same location...

 

Do you have to remove the compressor? You should be able to replace the pulley and clutch in place removing only the radiator. If you find that the wobble damaged the flange the clutch or pulley bearing attaches to, you need a new compressor.

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 191K miles

 

Correction, the bearing/ clutch hub is held on by snap ring.


Coil is pressed onto body behind bearing / clutch hub...


I've got the v-10 and I didn't have to remove anything to access....

 

The clutch had so much wobble I needed to be sure that there was no damage to the compressor so I decided to remove it. It made it a much easier job to unbolt the shroud and just lift it up some. This made coming straight out the front much easier in terms of working space. Also because of everyone being out of the items needed on a Saturday morning I went with a by pass pulley because I need it on the road and until I can get the whole package of Compressor, accumulator etc.
My compressor may be ok. How can I check it for sure?
Thanks for the help.

 

Oh and I took the clutch off and it just fell apart. Bearings went every where.

 

rockauto.com prices seem to confirm my experience that a replacement compressor with clutch costs less than a replacement compressor without clutch, and a replacement compressor with clutch costs ~$50 more than just a clutch. Short answer - it's probably worth spending the difference to get a replacement compressor with clutch and not worrying if your compressor's any good.

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 191K miles

 

I'd take this same approach as well---not so much from the money aspect but would think if the clutch or compressor were bad all on their own certainly the other isn't too far behind in potentially failing too.

I'm about to replace my A/C compressor, got very lucky finding a new Motorcraft complete with new clutch for $260 shipped. After calling Ford only to find my cost "loaded" (with clutch) was just about $560 ($780 list) something a bit less costly became a bit of a goal. Pricing usually isn't my main focus so spending literally 5 minutes to save $250 seemed prudent.

 

My thoughts exactly. That's why I put the by pass pulley on. I had to get it back on the road so the pulley allows me time to get the whole ball of wax together to get replaced. I going to change the whole system before I recharge it.

 

Well that makes a ton of sense then----smart man!

I don't have any experience with A/C compressors other than Ford-supplied, mostly new unused stuff of recent manufacture, people looking to clean out inventory. Once bought a complete A/C re-fit kit included compressor, belt, tensioner, full line set and several electrical connectors---for like $200, new OEM box and all---shipped.

Look to eBay for good deals on better parts.

 

Thanks for all the help. She is running like a champ only a little warmer on the inside. I will post the final deal when I get it all purchased and have the time to make all the changes. However it may be next spring!