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New to me '52 F1

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Old 08-21-2015, 09:59 AM
52 F1 Stocker 52 F1 Stocker is offline
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New to me '52 F1

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Picked up my new shop truck a few months back and I'm loving it!
So far I've done these things to it:
New gas tank
Carb rebuild
Radiator overflow tank
E Brake cables
U joints and diff pinion seal
Brake adjust
repaired shift linkage
Corrected battery install, was reversed - now back to original 6 Volt + ground
Repaired all lights/wiring
Installed new (fiberglass) running boards
Plus a lot of smaller and cosmetic things.




I have a bed wood kit to install, a headliner to install and a lot of other stuff to do.
I love driving this old truck.
Rebuilt 215, new clutch, 3 speed column shifter.


I'm thinking of painting the front and rear fenders satin black and leaving the rest as is - mostly to repair patch work at the front fenders where they're starting to bubble and look like crap.
This is going to be a working shop truck, not a show truck so a few imperfections are ok as long as it's reliable.
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:01 AM
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beautiful truck..
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:20 AM
52 F1 Stocker 52 F1 Stocker is offline
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Thanks c91x!
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Old 08-21-2015, 11:22 AM
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Chuck Frank
Unfortunately it looks like the typical slap a coat of bondo over the rot and let the next guy deal with it "repair" was done on your front fenders. The fenders were originally 2 pieces bolted together and are (in)famous for rusting out. See my F1 fender repair tutorial for what was involved in correctly repairing a better than average fender: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...g-try-2-a.html
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Old 08-21-2015, 11:42 AM
52 F1 Stocker 52 F1 Stocker is offline
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AXracer-Reading your tutorial now-
More or less right- the PO welded steel patch panels over the typical rust - then bondo'd the crap out of it.
It was the first thing I noticed about the truck when I looked at it- the missing seam between upper and lower front fenders.
I am not sure what I am going to do about it long term, but one idea is to leave it patched, clean to bare metal and use fiberglass to finish...then with a flat finish it will be less noticeable for now.
This is my shop truck- I hope to keep it forever, so maybe a few years down the road I'll do it properly, and pull the cab and fenders off to do a real paint job.
The PO painted it in his yard- so there are runs and other issues as well.
I just don't want it to get worse, and want to use the truck now.
I'm pulling the rear fenders off to replace the painted welt and replacing it with new.
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Old 08-21-2015, 03:56 PM
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Mine was patched the same way and had over 1/4" of bondo right over the rust and the metal "patch". I ended up buying fiberglass fenders from Bebops glass works. They fit well, you do have to drill all holes, and no rust ever.
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Old 08-21-2015, 06:43 PM
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Warts and all - she's a beaut. Enjoy the journey.
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Old 08-23-2015, 05:02 AM
52 F1 Stocker 52 F1 Stocker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topmoo View Post
Mine was patched the same way and had over 1/4" of bondo right over the rust and the metal "patch". I ended up buying fiberglass fenders from Bebops glass works. They fit well, you do have to drill all holes, and no rust ever.
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Yup- I'm thinking that might be my plan- go with fiberglass front and rear fenders and save the originals for eventual restoration when I've got the time to do a full frame off restore and a complete repaint.
That way I can use it now and ultimately do it right...
Heck - might even buy another old truck to use when I get the time to take this old girl off the road to fix!
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Old 08-23-2015, 11:15 AM
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I wouldn't focus so much on the warts, the truck looks better than 90% of them on the road. Repairing the sheet metal to Dearborn standards can wait, DRIVE it!
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Old 08-23-2015, 01:59 PM
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Yes, drive it, and let it tell you what it needs. Upgrade the safe operation items first if not done already: dual circuit master cylinder, new hard and soft brake lines, check behind wheel cylinder boots for fluid seepage (if you peel back the rubber boots they should be dry behind if fluid present replace the cylinder with new name brand DOT certified ones, not rebuilt or chinese clone ones, Napa carries these). Rebuild or upgrade steering components as needed (see my post on checking steering components here: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...licks-etc.html ). Add 3 point seat belts if not already so equipped. Order a free Classic Haulers catalog: www.classichaulers.com contains a lot of very useful information not just parts, and good people.
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:54 PM
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Your truck looks great! It looks like you have fixed the important things. I agree with Ross . . . just drive it end enjoy for now. You will come up with a list to keep you occupied this winter.
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Old 08-25-2015, 08:45 AM
52 F1 Stocker 52 F1 Stocker is offline
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Yup- I agree with Ross too!Been driving it, fixing the stuff needed as it comes up-
Test driving after carb. repair, the speedometer stopped working- broken cable.
Waiting until the winter to tackle the bigger stuff makes good sense.
Brakes have been upgraded to dual circuit with a booster, all steering components done.
I'll keep driving it until the roads around here get salted...
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 52 F1 Stocker View Post
the speedometer stopped working- broken cable.
Make sure that the cable is truly broken. Sometimes the cable core just slips out of the speedo head fitting particularly if the cable screw fittings are not screwed into the speedo or the trans all the way. I suppose that it could also happen if the cable assembly is not secured to the body properly too.
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Old 08-25-2015, 05:04 PM
52 F1 Stocker 52 F1 Stocker is offline
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Thanks Pete,Did that- found cable broken about 3-4 inches above trans. where the biggest be bend is in the cable.
It's only 64 years old!
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Old 08-25-2015, 06:51 PM
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If you look around, some vendors' cables have a wound-steel outer jacket, while others are cheapo plastic. Obviously the steel is more resistant to kinking and cracking. I used to get them at Antique Auto in TX, but they're out of business. They're around, just check for them.
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