I was in a bit of a hurry to find a F-350 to pull the camper my wife picked out recently. I believe I got lucky, or at least I hope I did . Found a 2006 F-350 dually with 57,800 miles. A very clean King Ranch Lariat on the inside, just a few scuffs on the exterior paint along with a ding or two and she seemed to be used mostly to pull an 5th wheel. That's what I'm assuming since the bed has the rails in it and she didn't seem to have the wear associated with a construction or landscaping vehicle. So I bought it......

I have read a few things in the 6.0L Tech Folder. So on the test drive last week before purchasing it I did the Cold start coolant & oil temp sensor check. 73F for the oil and 75.2F for the coolant if I did my math correct. I think the version of Auto Enginuity I have (v5.3) must be reading engine coolant temp in Celcius. The voltage readings on the sensors (oil & coolant) were within .1 to .15 volts of each other but the readings on AE were not matching up. but when I converted the 24 degrees C to F then it seemed to make sense since the voltage readings were so close.

I did some data logging and got a temperature difference of 15-18 degrees when driving on the highway for 10-12 miles. If the voltage/temp table I used was correct. The oil temp maxed out around 215F during the first & second test drives. Also, had no problem starting after heated up.

What other parameters should I check with the scanner?

I've read a bit about the FICM but have no clue what to look for

So far I have:

1. changed the fuel filters (used OEM) - they were nasty
2. changed the oil to 5W-40 syn
3. replaced the front brake pads and greased the caliper pins. Not because the pads were worn, but because there was so much crap & rust built up on them they were not releasing fully. The front end would take turns pulling to either side depending on which brake was sticking. The problem seems to be fixed and the front brakes are no longer getting hot and the pull to right/left hasn't happened since. But the brakes still feel a bit mushy to me. So I guess I should do the rears and a fluid change.

Should I flush the coolant & add the filter next along with doing the EGR delete & replace the oil cooler? Or should I do the coolant change & filter first and wait on the EGR delete oil cooler?

Thanks in advance

 

Almost forgot - my good friend TeamRoper at SLAPS (St. Louis Area Powerstrokes) had me snap couple of pics under the hood to see if she ever puked coolant yet. I got to her before the cleaning guys got a chance to detail her. Didn't seem to be any coolant residue, but the level was a bit low and the reservoir fluid level sticker wasn't there.





These were the only trouble codes I found on the initial scan. Cleared them out and these same ones came up again after the test drive.





and one pic of the new ride........

 

If your temp splits ect v eot is 15 plus you need a new oil cooler at least.
Welcome to the club. I see a bit of puke (unless that's dust) ciolant level looks normal. Not supposed to be filled to the top. As far as what to monitor and how.
Eot
Ect
Ficm
Volts
Icp
Ipr
Those are for daily driving. Most everything else is for trouble shooting.
You'll want a Scanguage ii and or obdii adapter and app (android or ios) and use it while driving, do you plan ondoing any work on the truck youself? Always keep up with maintenance, use motorcraft or racor filters, synthetic oil and drive it frequently--they don't like to sit - especially the turbo.

 

I've seen 15-20 degree temp differences if I did my calculations correctly. This is the voltage table I found online:

 

Thanks for the lists of parameters to monitor.....I have Autoenginuity but it sounds like there might be better options for the 6.0L.

Yep, I plan on digging into her again next week. First, flush the coolant and install the coolant filter. I don't want to wait to long or haul the 5th wheel anywhere far before doing the necessary mods to make her solid.

 

when monitoring the FICM - what should be a normal reading?

 

Sensor voltage don't mean much unless you're having problems
Temps are the key. 15 to 20 unloaded means your oil cooler is clogged and needs replaced. FICM volts should not fall below 45 but 47 to 48 is about the norm. If mine dropped below 47 I'd be getting it fixed.
Does the truck still have the egr cooler? Do you plan on doing a delete on it? As far as bulletproof whatmdo you plan on doing?

 

Yes, still has the EGR.

I'm planning on the EGR delete, new oil cooler, ELC coolant and Dieselsite's coolant filter.

Just not sure in what order........

 

here is a chart comparing my EOT & ECT temps during a 6 minute (unloaded) run IIRC. Just starting to warm up to operating temp. How bad does it look?

 

16 degree temperature spread at the end of the graph.


coolant temp 201
oil temp 217

 

Yep, time for an oil cooler.
I would do the oil cooler and the egr cooler delete at the same time.
Make sure to do a chemical flush before changing the oil cooler.

 

OK, I'm on it.

I'm planning on ordering Dieselsite's Coolant filter kit unless you guys recommend otherwise?

What about an EGR Delete kit? Who's do you recommend?

Stock oil cooler or Dieselsite's?

What do you recommend?

 

Rich, that's a nice looking truck! Next time I can make it back I might have to check it out. Also, if you ever need/want help wrenching on it, let me know, I'll help if I can. want to get some first hand experience in these beasts.

Baatzy

 

You're awesome man! When you guys stopped by last week I had no idea I was buying this. She's gonna be good once the mods are done, unfortunately I need to let one of my 7.3L's go.......

 

You definitely need an oil cooler.

Being an 06, you need to:
1. resolve the weak EGR cooler (EGR delete, or just install a BPD EGR cooler).
2. Install the one-piece STC fitting (if it hasn't been installed already)
3. Install the updated dummy plugs and standpipes (if they haven't been installed already)
4. Monitor fuel pressure, and you may need the updated fuel pressure regulator spring
5. Make sure alternator and batteries are healthy
6. I would also look into a pressure gauge for the degas bottle - just to be watching for leaking headgaskets (stretched bolts)
7. As stated earlier, investigate your FICM health (monitor, record and post your FICM MPower, LPower, and Vpower on KOEO, cranking, and running - do this with a cold engine and a hot engine).

Also - stick w/ the OEM oil cooler if you aren't springing the big bucks for a BPD external oil cooler.

Please tell TeamRoper hello for me. I miss his posts on the forum.