What 8-bolt rims from what model and year of Ford or Chevy 3/4 or one-ton trucks will fit a 1948 Mercury M-68 one-ton truck with 8 bolt, 17 inch split rims?

 

Your truck is very nice. Are you wanting to keep it as near to stock as possible, or, since you've asked about swapping the bed in your other thread, are you open to other solutions? Before I rattle on with your options, please give us some direction. Stu

 

I would like to keep it as close to stock as possible. Having said that I prefer the look of a steel box. I'm considering my options and comparing costs of a steel box vs rebuilding the wooden box.
I am currently searching for used rims to replace the 2 piece original rims. I will switch to dualies only if I have to.
To sum up, original is best - except for the wheels, but if modifying makes more sense and is economical, I'm listening.

 

No matter whether you stay with the stake bed (easiest and best, imho), or find a correct '48-'52 8' Express pickup bed/tailgate/running boards set (really hard to find in good shape, down here anyway), the wheel options are the same.

The widow maker two piece 17" wheels on your truck now are Budd #49380. You'll find that number on them. They are 17" x 5.5" wide. They came with 7.50-17" tires having a 34" outside diameter. Their use was originally necessitated on the F-3/F-68/M-68 models because the rear brake drums have a 14" diameter that more common 16" wheels won't clear.

There are two tubeless alternatives that we've found. They are either a 19.5" x 5.25" (Budd 71410), or 17.5" x 5.25" (either Budd 70720 or 73240, same in every way to my eye). The 19.5" is the direct replacement for the 17" widow maker. An 8-19.5" bias ply tire has a 34" diameter, or 8R19.5" radial measures about 33.5" tall. The 17.5" uses an 8-17.5" bias ply/8R17.5" radial tire that measures about 31.5" - 32" tall. The 17.5s will yield minor speedometer error and slightly reduced road speed. Both allow use of stock hub caps.

Both tubeless sizes were first available in 1956 on Ford F-250s, and Dodge and Studebaker 3/4 ton models. Chevy and GMC models got similar Kelsey-Hayes sizes, but they won't accept your stock hub caps. And iirc have a smaller center hole diameter that makes use on the rear of your truck a problem. I know of an available set of the 19.5" Budd 71410s, and can check with friends on the 17.5s if you want.

A third alternative that I haven't yet found details and numbers on are 17" tubeless wheels used on Dodge 3/4 ton models up to the present, or at least up to recent years. Dodge continued use of the 8 lug x 6.5" bolt pattern much longer than did Ford. These wheels will be much wider, my guess 7" or 8", and will not accept stock hub caps. Their use could result in rubbing on the front at the extremes of the turning radius.

If none of these options appeal, the other common fix is to replace the Timken model 51524 rear axle with a Dana 60 axle from a 1972 or earlier F-250. These have 12" drums that will accept any common 16" wheel, and offer more friendly final drive ratios for modern road conditions. And if you want to get real tricky, we can talk about the use of a period correct USA spec Ford F-2 complete Timken, or at least their 12" brake and wheel end components. The F-2 model was not available in Canada. Finding one of those axles might take some detective work.

Either your Timken, or the USA spec F-2, will likely have the stock 4.86/1 final drive ratio. A 4.11/1 was optional, but is very rarely found. Chuck Mantiglia of Chuck's Trucks in CT has engineered reproduction 4.11/1 sets at reasonable cost. I have his sets in my truck. Below is a link to Chuck's web site. Stu

Chucks Trucks LLC., Chuck's Trucks, Chucks Trucks

 

I chose a set of 95 Dodge 3/4 ton rims that I got a good deal on with tires installed . I did however have to get 1.5" spacers to eliminate the rubbing on the drag link .

 

Dodge rims is the kind of solution I've been hoping for. Should be relatively easy to find. Thanks! I bought a set of old Ford rims. They fit, but the bolts are too short. I'll start looking at Dodge.

 

Just to be clear, you chose 95 Dodge 3/4 ton rims for a one ton 49 Merc with 8 bolt rims? Were those regular or duallie rims? What size were they please?

 

Subscribing. Stu can he also have custom wheels made from the centers
of the widows to a tubeless outer?

 

Yup, forgot that solution. Expensive, but a real clean fix. Stockton Wheel made these pictured wheels for a member as Artic described. Widow maker centers in new 17" tubeless rims. Stu

 

Looks good! Not sure where I saw it on this website, but a fellow spoke about keeping original widow maker rims and using tubeless tires instead of original tube tires. He said the truck shimmied so badly he couldn't drive it. Any thoughts?

 

The widow maker rim in stock configuration will not hold air. The split part of the rim doesn't seal.

 

Like Fred said, no way that would work. Even with tubes it's a terrible idea. Stu

 

Thanks. Going to try and find some old Dodge rims. What a wealth of knowledge on this site. Thanks to all of you for your time.

 

I'm also having this debate.
I found this wheels and tires that some chevy guys are using in the 3/4 ton trucks:
Dexstar Conventional Steel Wheel w/ +0.5" Offset - 16" x 6" Rim - 8 on 6-1/2 - Black Dexstar Tires and Wheels AM20766
With these tires from the same company:
https://www.etrailer.com/p-AM10418.html
The only drawback is that they wont accept the stock hubcaps and someone mentioned that these are made overseas (what isn't? )
I can get a set of tires and wheels for less than a set of tires for my 17.5 from cocker.

 

If you have 14" rear drums like oldgirlbessie 16" wheels probably won't clear them. Also verify that any Chevy/GMC wheels you find will have a big enough center hole. And as said, they use hub cap clips. Stu