Ive been lurking for a while as I try to get my old truck back in shape. It was handed down to me from my late grandpa.

Specs:

1985 F150
302 w/ 2bl carb
"explorer" package with dual tanks, Cruise control, AC

I have been reading and it truck does NOT have a computer controlled carb as far as I can tell, no extra two wire plug into the distributor nor a box on the drivers side wheel cover.

The vacuum lines are a real mess, the smog pump was removed and the exhaust was rerouted after the merge from the headers, removing that part of the smog equipment.
Many of the vacuum lines were snapped or hanging when I go it.

From what I understand, not having the computer controlled carb would let me remove alot of the lines completely. Im doing my best to read up on what everything does, but if anyone has any pointers on where to start I would appreciate it.

-Greg

Edit: emissions testing isnt a problem

 

No box on the drivers side inner fender suggested that it is a computer controlled ignition. Duraspark (not computer controlled) ignition would have the box on the inner fender. Check the distributor for a vacuum advance line (indicates it is not computer controlled) or for a flat gray or black module on the side of the distributor (indicates it is computer controlled)

 

Look at your distributor and see if it has an ignition module on the side of it - it's highlighted in yellow in this example:



That module is controlled by a computer....

 

I bet yours is a Duraspark III and not the II. Look under the drivers seat and see if there is a box mounted underneath it to the floor. If so it is a Duraspark III.

 

If NorthGaHillbilly has a 1985 model with a carburetor, it would have originally came with the EEC-IV engine computer with a "feedback" carburetor and the TFI ignition.

It sounds like he still has the TFI ignition, but someone replaced the "feedback" carburetor with a conventional carburetor. This is a very common mistake that people make when they attempt to modify these engines. That is what was done to my own 1985 model when I took possession of it, and it will never run right like this. Like EFI, carbureted engines that have the EEC-IV systems need to have *everything* hooked up and be totally complete to run correctly.

 

thanks for the fast replies guys, sorry it took me a while to get back with more information.

It sounds like I do have the electronically controlled carb, I have the module on the distributor. The carb is a motor craft, so I hope its the right one.

I have been going through things, avoiding the vacuum lines as Im just feeling overwhelemed with them. But in the process of replacing things I did a complete overhaul on the breaks this week. After I replaced the breakbooster, which had a busted diaphram, I inadvertantly got rid of what was a huge vacuum leak.

Its running pretty well now, idles without trying to choke out, and a new mechanical fuel pump took it to the next level.

But this mess of lines is still stressing me out, just knowing there there. So Im going to start reading up on how to go about that.





couple of lines hanging here



Then Ive got this guy over on the right side

 

I would say to not mess with any of that stuff if it's running well; you won't do yourself ANY good whatsoever by removing functioning components.

There should be a vacuum hose routing diagram on the radiator support under the hood.

 

I definatly wont be removing anything at this point, but mainly looking to atleast know what the unplugged and hanging lines are, and where to plug them back in.

Ill check that diagram right now and see what I can find out

Thanks again for your help.

 

As was said in a previous post, it's important that you keep everything hooked up and working on your engine, or get a new distributor and carb and ditch the whole mess. This may not be possible if you have inspections in your area.

Your biggest problem if you mess with anything is the distributor. It has nothing in it but a pickup unit and a wheel with slots inside. The computer takes the info from the pickup, does some calculations, and then sends a signal back to the module on the side of the dist to tell it when to fire the coil. This works fine as long as everything is still hooked up.

A older style distributor has a vacuum advance and centrifugal weights down inside it. As the rpms increase, the weights increase the timing. As the load increases or decreases on the engine, the vacuum advance unit varies the timing also. No computer help on this type of distributor, so it does not depend on the sensors/lines and computer to control the timing.