Not certain on the valvesprings. Everything is stock as far as I know besides the cam. The heads are new to this motor. The original heads we're cracked. Machinist did a complete valve job on them as far as I know. How would I know if I need shorter rods?

 

Well something has to change. Either shorter pushrods or different valve springs.

Things are binding up, the cam is pushing things farther than they can go, so it bends the Pushrod.

 

Would I be ahead to try the 9.56 pushrods instead of the 9.59 rods that are in there right now? I really don't want to have to tow this back to the shop.

 

You really should get a length checker

Such as
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-92131

 

2X Kenny and FE390. With that much lift I think you got the wrong valve springs. Get the valve springs from the cam manufacturer that THEY suggest.

 

Thanks everyone for the replies. I think I found the problem. It appears as though I may have had an air bubble in the heads when first starting and didn't get them properly cooled and in doing so may have stuck the valves I was having issues with. The machinist is going through the heads now and said that he would call me as soon as he knows more. I will try and keep you guys updated but for now I think the valvesprings should be ok according to 2 different engine builders. Will hopefully post in the next couple days if I get the heads back and installed.

 

Interesting. Let us know how it plays out.

 

Alright everyone, I am going to be putting this together this weekend. The machinist said he put all new exhaust valves and guides in as well as ground the seats (You can conclude from that what you like but I don't know what caused it) He's only charging me parts so this isn't an expensive deal. My real question is, if those valves had to be replaced because the heads did get too hot how do I prevent this from happening a second time? I've heard that instead of pouring coolant into the radiator first like I did the last time that I should fill the manifold and the rest of the block first and then top off the radiator????? Does that sound right? Also it sounds like a family friend who worked on these new and still builds motors in his spare time is going to be helping me put it all back together. Is there anything that i'm forgetting? I will have new head gaskets as well as new intake and exhaust gaskets (Gasket maker on the ends of the block instead of the cork gaskets).

Thanks again for everyone's input I really appreciate it

 

I don't think it was a heat problem. That sounds like an excuse he gave you for something he F'd up. But you can fill the engine with coolant 1st by removing the thermostat and filling there. And then replacing it with a new Quality one.

 

X2, his reason for failure makes it sound as if it was your fault, then he did some work for free?!! Kinda makes me think he felt a little guilty for something?
Make sure you are using whatever springs are recommended to go with your cam. Whatever brand your cam is, go to their website. Find your cam, and it should also show you what the recommended springs are for that cam. I didn't, and although nothing get bent, the stock valve springs were not meant to rev to the RPM's my new cam wanted. I changed to the recommended springs, and no more problem.

 

3x on the shop F~up Sloppy value guilds with a high lift cam can cause issues like what went on bending push rods..

Also, I'd replace that oooold dizzy vacuum advance. That type came on these 40+ yrs ago an most likely is bad..

Orich

 

When you fill with coolant pull the heater hose off the intake and when coolant starts to come out the nipple on the intake block and heads should be mostly full. You can raise the nose of the truck to help also. Did a 390 that bent the pushrods when it warmed up and it was the machine shop did the guides to tight.

 

Yeah, I also pull off the heater hose when refilling the cooling system.

I have learned to always pull things apart and re-check a shops work.

If you had a spring compressor you could checked the guilds by just turning the valve stems for looseness. Ez with old valves still in it as the stems wear on one side won't spin with out a binding. Big screw up on the shops part failed the turn testing.

I found that a shop pushed in the wrist pin bushing offset on the oil hole.
on my last build.

Some very red faces when, I returned to that shop and told them,
I came to your shop "Not" to get poor workman ship like this screw up

Orich

 

Assuming you have hydraulic lifters, ..., and assuming you had the heads surfaced or 'shaved', ..., it could be that the high-lift cam is using up too much of the lifter preload travel, and they can't compensate. You may have to "shim the pedestals". By adding half the needed space under the rocker pedestals, you add length to the valve-train (in two places).

When measuring the pushrod length needed, remember to take up all the slack with heavy thumb pressure on the lifter side of the rocker arm. (The newer anti-pump-up lifters have a hefty spring inside, so you won't squish em.) Get your basic length, then add the recommended preload length (0.020 or so?).

Custom lengths are expensive. There were 5 'stock' lengths available. NAPA has some of them. Get close, and shim as appropriate. Use Valve Spring Seat Shims. (Note the oil path around one bolt for each side. Don't cover it during assembly and torque steps.)

Carefully clean out new lifters with solvent. My Cr*ne lifters had machining particles in them.

NAPA provided me with eight bad pushrods, prebent! Don't take an open box. Don't tap or 'ring' them. If you drop one, replace it. Have a machinist check then for straightness, or at least roll them on a corner of a thick piece of glass. They are intentionally 'soft', so they go before the rest of the assembly. Cheap insurance at $2.50 or so each.

Luck,

Kevin

 

When you get this back together. Turn the engine over by hand and watch how tight the valve springs get before you start it. If the valve spring coils are real close/compressed by hand you are guarantied to bend push rods when you start it. One thing you need to do is take some pictures of the Valve spring under full compression and provide them here. It will be cheap insurance to have a few people here look at it and maybe give you some good input.

Just a thought, there are plenty of talented people here that have no problem giving advice and suggestions based on prior real world experiences.