I tried the antique section. They sent me over to you guys. Please read and help - The life you save may be your own (if you see me on the road) -LOL!!!
Last April, I acquired a 1970 F600 (330/4-speed/2-step rear). I am in the process of converting it to a car hauler for my Chevy (thought you guys would like that - get it? a Ford hauling a Chevy???-Get it????) -LOL!! Anyway, as you know, it has the Hydrovac brake booster (think that's correct). I was never a fan of power/vacume assisted brakes. Can I SAFELY(optimum word) remove the booster and use the truck as I plan with manual brakes? I understand it will impact stopping distance. I also know I will need increased calf strength (already doing my exercises). Thanks for the help.

 

That would be criminally unsafe.

You have a large system with 6 wheel cylinders. You might be looking at pedal pressures well over 200 lbs, if not close to 500 to stop with a load. Add it a little brake fade and you and anyone in your path is DEAD.

You will find the hydro-vac can be rebuilt or a reman can be purchased. Wheel cylinder kits or new cylinders can be found at NAPA, but it will take some "talking" to guide them to a paper book and not the on-line stuff that tops out at the F350. Drums are NOT available new and serviceable used items are hard to find.

Please don't do anything to that system other than maintenance or upgrade.

Have you ever driven one of these for long distances? Are you familiar with the 2 speed axle shifting? It is important to NEVER shift that axle on a downhill. Start the downhill in low range and stay there. I can find the Eaton videos if you want.

 

Criminal? Naw!!!! I'm giving you fair warning! Look at my Avatar. If you see my truck, don't step in front. You'll be fine! Besides, the Flinstones used to stop with their feet. Manual brakes are MUCh better! Cheers.

 

Everybody Relax! I test drove it on my quiet, no people country road without booster. It DOES NEED the Hydrovac booster. I will not put back my old leaky booster. I am turning it in for a NEW one. We are all safe!!!

 

The rear main seal is leaking on my 1970 F600 (yes, I'm sure it the rear main seal). Question: Since the motor is in the truck, is it easier to install a rear main seal by removing the oil pan and going in that way...OR, should I pull the transmission? Thank you for the help.

 

I'm curious how you plan to get the new seal in without pulling the flywheel?

 

You can change it by dropping the pan. No need to pull the trans or flywheel. The 330 is basically an FE engine so google it using 352/390/428 instead of 330.