Ed, you sound very confident in the moroso gasket. I'm getting a moroso pan and gasket for my transmission. I don't have my engine pan on yet but you'r changing my mind. It makes sense about the flange on the pan.

Do you need to get a new pan if the flanges are bent or can you pound them back out on a flat surface without jeopardizing it?


Edit: this is where I saw the hit miss. Ed, you had some very good advice in there too. It's to bad that the last poster didn't state what the cause was.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...an-gasket.html

 

Scott the post you are talking about I do recall he never said but I had thought to myself the engine had blow by with positive cranckcase pressure AND maybe when the old oil pan (It was a old one if I recall correctly) when it was being removed it was pried off with a pry bar or large screw driver. Since the old RTV wouldn't let go. First of all you NEVER pry a oil pan off on the flange and secondly I would use a razor blade to free up the RTV.

Personally I would never use a oil pan or valve cover that the flange is bent. I say this because when I was young and dumb I tried and what a nightmare that turned in. If the flange is straight and the bolt holes are bent that is no big deal just hammer and dollie flat. But be careful not to bent the flange when doing so. Once again I have done that before back when I wore a younger man's clothes.
So I would say if in doubt replace the oil pan.

I have used RTV in the past for oil pans and diff covers and 50% of the time I had to redo it. RTV works great at the factory on new parts.


Moroso is the only pan gasket I will use on anything I put my name on or I have to stand behind. I have used FelPro blue gaskets a couple of times when Moroso didn't make it and have had one leak. But I think it might have been my fault for being in a hurry. In general I think the new hitech material and design is much better then the RTV. Just remember nice clean and dry I use lacquer thinner to wipe off the gasket and flanges for a clean dry surface when putting the RTV in the corners (engine side only). But that might actually be in the directions. Oily fingerprints on the gasket where you plan to put RTV will not stick and then you have a leak or drip.

 

thank you to everyone im going with the ford sealant and off to pull the motor AGAIN right now

 

the motor is out











i dont think the pics will show it but it turns out the culprit is unfortunately me,boy i wish i could blame right stuff black but myself and 2 mechanic friends all saw that at the back where it leaked it was applied too thin,so i learn from another mistake,and in the morning get to clean it and put it back with ford sealant,i will say though where it wasnt applied too thin that right stuff was really really tough to get the pan to separate, ihave no doubt it would have worked had i not messed up.and my blue tick sounder wants to know when is it going to be done because he's waiting togo for a ride

 

When I do an oil pan, I always set the pan on the engine before I apply any sealant and eyeball the gap between the flange and engine, particularly at the front and rear covers so I have an idea how much (or little) sealant to apply in those areas. The manufacturing tolerances must be fairly loose for those parts because I've seen gaps anywhere between none and about 3/16".

 

i never thought of doing that ,dry fitting it first but you can bet i will this time

 

Highly reppable!

 

cleaned up the pan today

















and the block,a friend told me about using these discs with the arbor adapter for a die grinder and they were fantastic





they made short work of cleaning both the pan and block ford ta-31 got applied nice and thick the pan went back on motor went back in and she ran like a top for or over an hour with no leaks,hallelujah!

 

Awesome! Tried to Rep you but in jail. Great work and great pics. This has been one of my biggest worries about getting my pan back on.