Ok I bought a 52 Ford F1 with remote master cylinder set up that's mounted below the cab. Not sure what car it's out of and can't get any numbers off it that will cross reference. So u lading my truck at the garage that's doing some work on it for me, and the master cylinder goes bad. My mech has not been able to try one that works. He said all the ones he tried the "throw" is not right for the truck. Can you guys give me some ideas of ones your using or ones that will work on my 52 Ford F1 with new front disc brakes and stock rear drum set up???

 

I am a bit confused at what your current setup is.

Are you looking to swap setups or just replace the master cylinder?

If you are looking to upgrade, are you keeping the stock pedals?

I had a CPP unit (for and F100) that had a booster and master to work with stock pedals. The master had the proportioning valving build into it. It also had a different master cyl cap that I could swap out and it had 2 barb fittings that would be routed up the firewall to a remote res. for ease of filling. I ended up going with different pedals (firewall mounted) and used that CPP master cyl which works with drum/disc or disc/disc.

 

Replacing my bad remote master cylinder? Can't cross ref any numbers? My mech has attempted a few replacements but he said the throw on the replacement master cyl's is correct. All stock pedals, new Ccp front disk brake set up.

 

Help guys!!! Lol you've fixed almost every prob I've had to date, and for that I thank you guys.....

 

Would you happen to have the part number that came off of the truck and the part number he is trying to install?

 

What do you mean by "remote" master cylinder? Remote reservoir?

I would think by measuring the bore on the old one, knowing it is for disc/drum, and other features he could figure it out. If the bore is the same, I don't see how the throw would be different.

 

It's mounted under the truck. Not on fire wall. No part number. Tried to take it to local parts store to find one and nothing??? I'm at complete stand still till I can get itto stop.just going by what he said that the "throws are wrong" on replacements.....

 

In this case a picture would be worth a 1,000 words.

 

This type of question is the most difficult to answer diplomatically, but we have what seems to be clueless mechanic doing work for an equally/more clueless owner? Here's a few clues to help:
1. all pre 60s light Ford trucks had the brake MC installed under the floor from the factory. This location is not considered to be "remote mounting", but OEM.
2. The OEM MC was a single reservoir/circuit pot. i.e. has one chamber where the fluid goes in, and one output line that splits before going to the front and rear brakes. AFAIK they did not have any markings on them. Can be replaced directly with a stock replacement MC from aftermarket.
3. If front brakes are changed to disks, it is likely (and highly recommended) that the OEM MC was replaced with a later model dual circuit/chamber unit. An OEM MC will have two mounting bolst holding it to the frame crossmember.
4. A upgrade replacement will have 2 chambers to hold fluid, a 2 output lines/ports. These lines may go directly to the front and rear brakes respectively, or may be plumbed into a proportioning block between the MC and the axles. A later model MC will mount with 4 bolts to an adapter that is then bolted to the crossmember.
5. The MC may have a booster (power brakes) or not (standard brakes). It is important to know which you have. Typically power brakes can be recognized by the booster (looks like two metal pie plates put together, or a small metal pot and lid with a heavy rubber hose running to a vacuum port on the engine between the pedal linkage and the MC. Standard brakes has no booster, the rod from the pedal goes directly into the MC.
6. The late model MCs all use the same length throw, i.e. the distance of travel the pushrod moves in and out of the MC. The only difference is the length of the push rod that goes into the MC before contacting the piston in the MC is different for a MC for a boosted system vs for an unboosted system. Sounds like the mechanic is trying to use an unboosted MC on a boosted application or viceversa. This is why you need to know if you have an boosted or unboosted system when looking for a replacement MC for an upgraded brake system. You also need to know if the MC has internal proportioning valves or an external proportioning block (typical proportioning block is usually a good sized brass colored metal block with 4 brake line ports, 2 in and 2 out. may also have a port for mounting a brake light switch. It is usually mounted to the MC mounting bracket or very close to the MC.
7. I would highly recommend finding a more knowledgeable mechanic!

 

Also sound like a no name chinese clone MC and mount kit from ebay, one of the Hoffman group companies, etc was used by whoever did the conversion. At this point if you are buying a new MC anyway, it would not be a whole lot more expensive to just replace the whole setup with a quality one from Classic Haulers, CPP, Master Brakes, etc where they use known standard OEM MC and other parts, especially if your mechanic is charging an hourly rate to keep trying different MCs.

 

x2.

OP, you shouldnt be paying the mechanic to remove and replace the MC more than once if he/his shop is the one supplying/ordering parts.

I would really look into a proper conversion kit that is made for your brake setup. Go with power brakes and the dual chamber MC to save money in labor down the road

 

I agree with BJ. Show us some pic's of what you have, before going out and spending cash on something that you don't need. Your mechanic may be uncomfortable with the type of braking system you have, and doesn't want to spend the time to research the design or part's. I'm a certified tech, and have seen a lot of tech's in shop's not want to spend a lot of time on unfamiliar problems.(myself included) Most are on Flat Rate or some kind of commission. Good luck.