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No interference problems. The high point on the plate over the axle sits outside the bottom of the box. It is possible that the bar could touch, but it would mean the suspension had more than bottomed out.
If I was going to be doing real off road jumps etc. I'd get the other traction bar they sell that has to weld to the axle.
Sorry, didn't answer your question. I don't have the invoice handy and I don't recall. I phoned them, one of their guys went and measured the one in their showroom, and it matched my application and I bought it.
I'm still concerned about the bracket to bed clearance. My tires barely clear the inner bedsides. And the spring has to go right up underneath of it. I haven't measured yet but it seems like it's not much room in there
Mine is a flareside so I can't provide much help (I'm assuming yours is a styleside), but I'll try and get a picture for you of the bracket from the rear so it shows how it sits over the spring.
I had ladder bars on my '69 for 20 sum years. Only issue was the fact I did not have floaters on the axle housing. That put things in a bind on suspension travel. Granted I never hauled anything in the bed and overall it worked great. It finally beat the front springs eye bushings out and caused it to wonder on the road pretty bad.
I've since pulled all that out and have been contemplating what I will replace it with. Have a complete coil over set up, but haven't wanted to cut it up that bad(yet). Cal tracs are good, these bars look like a possibility.
Got the heads off the motor all summer, not sure when I'll get it back together to worry about it. It wheel hops HORRIBLE so I don't beat on it at all!!!
Have to keep this kit in mind, if I don't fab it up myself.
Just crawled under it and took a picture from above the rear spring hanger facing forward. You can see the rear of the bar with the blue bushing on either side, and the mounting bracket bolted down to the top of the u-bolt. I can't see how the tire would interfere with it unless the tire was nearly rubbing on the spring.
Yup, can't see that hitting a tire no matter what. My 29.5 x 12.5 MT on the back of my '69 just clear the tubs.
I'm just wondering about overall toughness. I'm thinking over time you might bend up the mounting brackets with too much HP.
They made a similar set up for cars back in the day. Called "Traction Masters". They mounted below the springs (since housing is above on a car). The mounting brackets weren't as tall and flimsy looking. Could be fabbed for a truck if clearance on the top is an issue.
I thought about slapped bars, but they only work one direction. I've got a problem both ways. Plus, I don't see how they would work with the range of suspension travel and the changing spring arch.
I thought about slapped bars, but they only work one direction.
Guess I never do reverse burnouts . I'm looking for something to control spring wrap up under hard acceleration(in the forward direction). I have slappers on my '64 2 dr Galaxie and they work well on the street. I've contemplated putting Caltracs on it, but after near 20 yrs with slappers, I just leave well enough alone.
They clamp to each side of the axle tube. Going in the FORWARD direction, the axle wraps to push the slapper bar up against the front spring eye area. Thus controlling the wrapping motion of the spring. That upward motion helps plant the housing downward by pushing up on the chassis(equal and opposite reaction). No, they won't work well in reverse action, unless you get the style that has the safety clamp that holds the front of the bar from pulling away from the spring as the housing rotates in the opposite direction.
Yes, if you change the ride height, it will change the preload(or lack of) of the snubber at the front. Not really meant to be used in a "hauling condition" and the ability to do a burnout.
Exactly, and I do load up pretty heavy fairly often.
The hard acceleration (burnout) isn't a problem because the tires just spin. The problem lies where the tires can't spin, and I have to apply hard power (towing heavy, from a stop) I can feel the back of the truck raise up because of the spring wrap. And for the reverse rotation aspect, that comes from heavy braking and locking up the wheels causing them to wrap and thus hop. (Happened very violently yesterday, and with the wheels hopping, they're not stopping!)
08-03-2015, 10:50 AM
. I'm looking for something to control spring wrap up under hard acceleration(in the forward direction). I have slappers on my '64 2 dr Galaxie and they work well on the street. I've contemplated putting Caltracs on it, but after near 20 yrs with slappers, I just leave well enough alone.