I have a 97 Ford F 350 with the 7.3l powerstroke. I bought it, put a new manual fuel pump on it. Which I do not think now is what was wrong with it. It has an extended crank time. After it starts it won't Rev out it just stops revving about 2000 rpm and has no power until it warms up. I've driven it down the road from cold till it gets warm and there is an obvious change in the sound of the engine tone and it starts running just fine. Although even warm it hesitates around 2500 rpms before it redlines. Any ideas.

 

Have you checked the usual? Oil in the resiviour for the HPOP? Also check the UVCH and other usual culprets. Mine had this problem, and what had happened was the IDM shorted out, and at first was just missing and would get worse unail it shut the first 4 cylinders down. Checked fuel pressure?

 

I checked the fuel pressure before and after I installed the new fuel pump. The pressure was irrattic before and after I was taking the pressure reading at the fuel bowl. I'm pretty sure the hard start is a glow plug issue and I plan on correcting it as soon as I figure out the no/low power when cold. It feels like an air flow problem to me but I've had several people (no more qualified than I am though) that it sounds like a hpop issue example being that the oil thins out when warm and flows better

 

That is true, what do you run? I rub Rotella t 15w-40 but on higher milage I heard of HD 10W-30 used as well. That being said, is it black or really thick when checked?

 

It was black and needing changed I changed it yesterday I used motorcraft 15 40 with a Motorcraft FL1995 filter. It was only yesterday and I haven't driven it today but I did drive it yesterday after I changed it and did not notice a difference.

 

Check the fuel filter for being black.sounds like injector orings failing

 

I put a new filter in it when a changed the pump and it looked new when I throw it away. I figured I'd change it any way since I'd already bought it. I will check it when I go back outside.

 

Ok I just pulled out the fuel filter I've put about 3000 miles on it since I got it all of which was after I put the fuel pump on and the filter does seem to have a dark tint to it but I don't see any residual dark spots in the housing or floating in the fuel. I didn't drain the bowl till I went to put the filter in.

 

Free rev it after its warm and see if it stumbles around 2000-2400 rpm.

 

It does at around 2500 then it's like the turbo catches up and blows it out. The longer and harder I drive it the less it stumbles. It's a manual transmission btw

 

I have a feeling your injector orings are not well.

 

x2^^^^^^^^

 

Is there something I can to to test that. All of them as a whole not well? Could it be the injector cups as well. Is the injectior o-rings a serviceable part. I know it's a lot of questions, I just only wanna tear down and replace what I have to

 

You already tested it. You said there's a tint in the fuel filter. Unless you're running 2 stroke oil in your fuel, it shouldn't be discolored.

However, there is a test, but you need to be able to read the IPR duty cycle, Pulse width, and the ICP at the same time. Get your truck out on the road, find a long stretch of road, get it in high gear at around 1300rpms, and floor it. Then, while watching where you're going, take notes of what the IPR duty cycle is, PW, along with the ICP. All of these readings need to be taken while under full throttle. Letting off messes up the whole thing. This will show you what the problem is. Keep track of the 3 readings at 1500, 2000, 2200, 2500, and, if you dare, 2700. Caution, now is NOT the time to realize your brakes aren't up to par. Now, I love testing trucks, but in your case, I don't think any of what I mentioned is really necessary.

How many miles are on the truck?

Original injectors?

O-rings?
Your answers here will confirm what others have said.

 

About 220000. I bought the truck from an auction so I don't have a clue if all those items are original. It's an old company truck.