Parked in driveway and 2 hours later it cranks but will not start. Pushed on fuel rail Schrader valve and it squirts out. Turn key and the fuel pump runs for 2-3 seconds then off...... Thought I had fuel... assume electrical. Read posts last night and thought crank positioner pickup was a good place to look. Took spark plug leads off #1 and #4 at coil and set a 1/4 steel dowel in each so they were 1/2 inch apart. Crank motor and I get spark out of coils so I assume the plugs are getting fire... Took off intake hose and shot ether in the tube while cranking... no fire or pop at all.

Where to now ? Seems like I have fire to the plugs, and fuel available but will not start. I have only one code and that's PO1116 coolant temp out of range..I don't have a cam sensor code or a crank sensor code...I thought they might effect the timing ?

With spark at the plug wires, you would think I would get a "POP" now and then, especially with the ether ?

 

I should add that that was last night. This morning, I cranked the truck and it started normal. Drove normal. Drove 500 ft, stopped and put in park. Motor died.. will not restart... That's when I did all the above testing with the fuel pump and spark at plug wires.

 

You might want to hold the accelerator pedal all the way down and crank it over a bit to see if it will pop and act like it wants to start. It's possible that you have too much fuel in the cylinders and you've flooded it, especially now that you've sprayed ether in the intake. If the coolant temp sensor is reading goofy it could be trying to run pretty rich. Also, when you did the ether trick did you hook the intake air tubing back up so the MAF reading was accurate? You could also try pulling a couple of spark plugs to see if they are saturated with fuel or worn badly.

-Rod

 

well, its not the crank shaft position sensor. That was my good guess so I ordered one over the weekend and put it in Monday. Started up on the first crank... let it idle for 5 minutes. Ran great, good throttle response. Shut it off, will not restart. Tried 5 ties to restart. Cranks, but no "pop" at all.. Ran battery down. Put on charger and let it set 1 hour while I did some painting........ Came back and tried to start, took several revolutions, but it did start up.... rand 60 seconds and I shut it off. Tried to restart and cranks, but no start... ??????? When it starts it seems to run fine.

 

Only code I see is PO1116 - coolant temp out of range. I can see that effecting slightly, but I have read nothing about a "no start" condition ??

 

Did you try the "Clear Flood" mode by holding the accelerator all the way to the floor to shut off the fuel injectors?

-Rod

 

Yes... no help.. The truck was running (idle) fine for 5 minutes. I shut it off, waited 10 seconds, and will not restart. I checked fuel pressure tonight at 40 psi. Charged battery to 100% just for kicks... Tried again... crank ,crank, crank... I don't hear ANYTHING, it acts like no fuel injection.. no pop at all...I had spark at coil out yesterday..... this is intermittent, not flooded. Will try to startup tomorrow am.

 

PROBLEM SOLVED....... well I had spark and fuel. Sometimes start , sometimes not.. assumed the crank sensor was bad and causing bad timing... It was good... The more I tested the more I see that it starts OK when cold, but not when hot.. Only code was PO1116 - COOLANT TEMP SENSOR.... but surely that input does not change the timing enough to cause NO START ? ..... well, it does. When running and the timing is way advanced, its stays running. Shut off when the sensor is hot and excessive advance timing ( spark or fuel?) and it will not run at cranking speed.. I got some recommendations from SHOROD and BLUEGRASS7 over at the F150 page. Both thought it was timing issue and both though the Coolant Sensor "COULD" cause the problem. I had ignored the PO1116 code thinking it was a minor input. Bought the coolant sensor at noon today and installed in 15 minutes. Started up and even idles much better. I was staying at fast idle (1500rpm) for 30-45 seconds before, now it kicks down to 700 RPM in about 10 seconds.. Even sounds better, which I did not notice before.. Let it run 10 minutes, shut down, restart in 1 crank, shut down , restart again in 1 crank .. sure looks like its FIXED..
One other thing.... then new sensor measured 27 ohms at 90 degrees outside... the old sensor was close to 700 ohms !

Thanks SHOROD and BLUEGRASS ........ I should have changed the sensor when I saw the code, but could not believe it had THAT much effect !

 

Awesome, glad to hear it appears to be fixed. The ECT sensor also has quite an effect on air/fuel ratio (which is why I thought it might be a flooded condition). You'll probably notice better fuel economy with the new sensor as well.

-Rod