Dually fender not connected
#1
Dually fender not connected
I bought my truck just over a month ago. I did the carfax and no damage was reported and the fact that it only had just over 10k on it probably tricked me into not looking at it as closely as I should. Anyway, I have noticed that there has been some body and paint work on the passenger rear fender and a little on the bed just in front of the rear fender. The dually fender has a gap between it and the bed of about 3/8". This is driving me crazy. Has anybody removed these new style fenders? I think I can just take out the fender liner to get to it but will I be able to fix it once I'm there? It appears that it just needs to be snugged up against the bed I just don't know why they didn't get it right if it was worked on before.
#2
Here is the procedure...smallers pic not include...see larger pic at bottom
Removal and Installation
Remove the 14 splash shield pin-type retainers (5 shown).
Remove the 2 screws (1 shown) and remove the fender splash shield.
Remove the front and rear parking lamp electrical sockets from the fender.
Remove rear fender-to-pickup bed bolts from the bottom front of the fender.
To install, tighten to 8 Nm (70 lb-in).
Remove rear fender-to-pickup bed bolts from the bottom rear of the fender.
To install, tighten to 8 Nm (70 lb-in).
Remove 3 fender nuts from the t-bolts on the front inside of the fender.
To install, tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
Remove 3 fender nuts from the t-bolts on the rear inside of the fender.
To install, tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
Remove the 3 bolts from the front fender bracket.
To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
Remove the 3 bolts from the rear fender bracket.
To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
Release the fender from the pushpin hanger by lifting up and remove the fender.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Removal and Installation
Remove the 14 splash shield pin-type retainers (5 shown).
Remove the 2 screws (1 shown) and remove the fender splash shield.
Remove the front and rear parking lamp electrical sockets from the fender.
Remove rear fender-to-pickup bed bolts from the bottom front of the fender.
To install, tighten to 8 Nm (70 lb-in).
Remove rear fender-to-pickup bed bolts from the bottom rear of the fender.
To install, tighten to 8 Nm (70 lb-in).
Remove 3 fender nuts from the t-bolts on the front inside of the fender.
To install, tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
Remove 3 fender nuts from the t-bolts on the rear inside of the fender.
To install, tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
Remove the 3 bolts from the front fender bracket.
To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
Remove the 3 bolts from the rear fender bracket.
To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
Release the fender from the pushpin hanger by lifting up and remove the fender.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
#3
#6
#7
I agree with you. I bet it is not the original fender. The paint looks really good, but the stripes are just crooked enough that I can tell when I look close. I guess its no different than the one I traded in. I crashed the pass side front fender a few years ago and did all the repairs but the final paint myself. It would probably been over $2k if I had let the shop do the whole thing. I replaced the front fender myself, fixed the running board that was pretty bent up, took off all the door trim, mirror, bumper, etc, so the shop could spray it, then put everything back together. It still cost me about $1k including that $95 front wheel center I smashed. I didn't report it to the insurance and the shop didn't report anything.
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