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Mid fifties new dropped axle

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  #16  
Old 07-30-2015, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by kevin1gonzalez
I currently have the new drop axle from mid50 on my 54' f100 and it looks great- its the perfect drop with stock leaf springs- I can send you pics to your email- just make sure you know that you will have to heat the control arms in order to gain clearance for the steering.
Where did you get the info about needing to heat "control arms" (I'm assuming you mean steering arms, there are no control arms on a beam axle)? I don't think this info came from MF, since they recommend using tie rod drops (part# 2718) or dropped tie rod ends (part# 2719DP, used with special tie rod) to regain tie rod clearance. Heating and bending the steering arms is very "old school" way to provide clearance that I would highly discourage, Even a small error in repositioning the pivot location can cause a drastic detrimental change in the steering geometry, tie rod end binding, handling and tire wear. Further improper heating/cooling can change the metallurgy of the arm, leaving it soft/weak or prone to cracking/breaking. DON'T DO IT!
 
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Where did you get the info about needing to heat "control arms" (I'm assuming you mean steering arms, there are no control arms on a beam axle)? I don't think this info came from MF, since they recommend using tie rod drops (part# 2718) or dropped tie rod ends (part# 2719DP, used with special tie rod) to regain tie rod clearance. Heating and bending the steering arms is very "old school" way to provide clearance that I would highly discourage, Even a small error in repositioning the pivot location can cause a drastic detrimental change in the steering geometry, tie rod end binding, handling and tire wear. Further improper heating/cooling can change the metallurgy of the arm, leaving it soft/weak or prone to cracking/breaking. DON'T DO IT!
Sorry I meant tie rod ends- I also used the extenders but it was still not enough clearance, luckily my dad is a master mechanic and was able to heat them slightly as recommended by mid50 believe it or not in order to obtain clearance-
 
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:35 AM
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Figured I'd throw a pic of my Sid axle...




Still not on the road...but I like to look at it!
 
  #19  
Old 07-30-2015, 11:47 AM
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I have a question, Is the Sid axle a stock axle that has been modified? or is it a whole new axle?
The reason I ask is I have been scrapping axles for years now and if they are modified original axles maybe I could sell my cores to him?
 
  #20  
Old 07-30-2015, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
You would have good reasons to be wary of the old ones, of many different brands. Many threads on the HAMB about Speedway and Magnum axles with cast iron ends (the dropped sections) failing catastrophically. There's a reason Sid is busy... He's not the only one stretching stock forged steel axles, tho.
I found my answer, I'm going to start saving them now
 
  #21  
Old 07-30-2015, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bigwin56f100
I found my answer, I'm going to start saving them now
You're right, they are stock axles. I remember seeing that he buys cores in the past, maybe on his facebook page?
 
  #22  
Old 07-30-2015, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Where did you get the info about needing to heat "control arms" (I'm assuming you mean steering arms, there are no control arms on a beam axle)? I don't think this info came from MF, since they recommend using tie rod drops (part# 2718) or dropped tie rod ends (part# 2719DP, used with special tie rod) to regain tie rod clearance. Heating and bending the steering arms is very "old school" way to provide clearance that I would highly discourage, Even a small error in repositioning the pivot location can cause a drastic detrimental change in the steering geometry, tie rod end binding, handling and tire wear. Further improper heating/cooling can change the metallurgy of the arm, leaving it soft/weak or prone to cracking/breaking. DON'T DO IT!
Well.... evidently the stock axles are heated and dropped and it seems like they are safer than the "new ones", so done correct its no problem dropping a steering arm, just keeping in mind doing the heat/cooling/positioning right.

It´s not rocket sience, you just have to do the homework and preparation in advance....
 
  #23  
Old 07-30-2015, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jimcar-9
Well.... evidently the stock axles are heated and dropped and it seems like they are safer than the "new ones", so done correct its no problem dropping a steering arm, just keeping in mind doing the heat/cooling/positioning right.

It´s not rocket sience, you just have to do the homework and preparation in advance....
This is the concern. It is "(rocket ?) science" to heat, forge, and treat steel. You probably don't see the TV show in Sweden we have here called Forged in Fire, a reality competition for professional knife and sword makers. They must forge, shape and treat steel to make blade weapons which are then tested for function, durability and sharpness retention. These are experienced people who do this for a living, but you would probably be surprised at how many of the blades break, bend, warp, fail when being worked or when tested.
No one's life is dependent on these knives and swords, but steering component failure is life threatening, not only to yourself, but to innocent others as well. If it were easy, there would be many more than just one person in the entire USA dropping axles (and that's not even touching on what happens if the geometry is messed up in the process.). Just because it can be done doesn't mean it should...
Be safe my friend.
 
  #24  
Old 07-30-2015, 06:56 PM
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I talked to Sid today on the phone. He told me when I get my axle back from him after receiving the 3" drop, install everything back on truck. Then stand on the bumper and jump up and down. If the steering wheel moves side to side, the steering arms will need to be heated and bent down until they are level. It requires the arm to be heated in two areas and a pipe wrench. Sid will walk you through it if you need the info. He said every truck he works on is different and many require no modification. He actually thought about building a jig to prebend steering arms but he said there are so many variances among each truck that it would probably would be of no value. You will definitely have to install the 2" tie rod extenders with the dropped axle.
 
  #25  
Old 08-01-2015, 03:26 PM
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Then it should be equal unsafe to drop The stock axel. You wouldn't want to leave one wheel on The side of The road.

I have been working with heatreatments of steel, case and thruhardened, for 8 years and also as a solid mechanics guy so, the procedure for heating and bending and maintaining acceptable mechanical properties is not rocket science .. ..
 
  #26  
Old 08-01-2015, 03:50 PM
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The Stock Ford components are very high quality steel.
 
  #27  
Old 08-01-2015, 04:49 PM
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I think they just want to be up front. When I asked about bump steer she put my order on hold until she had a chance to ask about . She left me a message that it was on hold until I had all my concerns answered. I trust them all the way. That said I am having Sid do mine.
 
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