<p></p><p>Sounds like ignition getting power in START but not in RUN.</p>

 

tell me about that please..

how would the ignition power be ok to start but not run, what might be the culprit


also do you place any credence in the yellow vs white/blue spark. there are tons of opinions on it.

 

When was the condenser last replaced?

 

With the DuraSpark II system that came in your truck there are two power wires going to the module.
The white one has power while cranking and supplies a signal to the ignition module telling it to retard the timing, taking load off the starter motor.
This truck provides a full 12V to the coil while cranking.

The red one provides power to the module in run, and from a splice, provides reduced voltage to the coil.
This keeps the coil from overheating while driving, due to saturation and the high winding ratio of the DuraSpark coil.

You say you are running a points distributor...?
I'm not sure how you are getting power to the coil, but it would seem you can only have one source of power without the module doing the switching for you.

Personally I'd be glad if I never saw a set of points again!
Chasing your tail, adjusting gap and dwell, tiny plug gaps of .030" or less.
Though I do like to tinker with vintage motorcycles so it seems inevitable...

Yes, yellow/orange spark is feeble and may not even jump the gap when subjected to compression inside the cylinder.
Do you have power to the coil with the key in 'run'?

 

I have only owned the truck for a few months. I can tell you that it could actually be factory original. It has the old style ford part number on it.

 

No points since the early '70' s...

Is there an aluminum box about 5" square and 1 1/2" thick on the drivers side fender?

 

Yea my mistake I have worked newer cars....My last carbureted car was a 71 duster when i was a teen.

There is one mounted there about the dimensions you state with some small fins.....

 

Okay, so the truck doesn't have points, it has the DSII it came with.

Check for power to the coil with the key in the run position.
Just slip off the horseshoe style connector and probe the red wire for juice with the key on.
Your weak spark seems odd for what is essentially a high output electronic ignition system.

 

ok will do that after and and see.

 

<p>Thank you, Jim. </p>

 

Ok i put my multimeter on the horse shoe with the key turned on.

the voltage at the horseshoe was 11.10 v voltage at the battery was 11.9 v

the battery is a bit drained due to starting attempts

thoughts

 

Okay the coil has power, but you still have no spark in the run position.

Is the ignition module getting power in run?
Look for the plug with a red and a white wire.
Unplug it and check each wire of the harness for power with the key on and while cranking.
A test light might be easier to see from the drivers seat while performing this test.

 

<p>I wonder if it's something as simple as the ignition key not springing all the way back to RUN from START... that happens when the mechanisms get dirty and the spring in the actual ignition switch wears out. Try turning the key a bit more towards yourself as the key leaves the START position.</p>

 

Here's something to check, I had a similar problem. The fuel line coming out of the tank is rubber. If it's rotted a pinhole in it, the pump will suck enough gas for you to see spray into the carb, but not enough for the truck to run, as it'll just suck air through the pinhole and spray that into the carb instead of fuel. Try replacing that rubber line that comes from the tank to the steel fuel line, see if that helps. It should only cost a couple bucks.

 

Yellow spark is not OK, that's not opinion. A weak spark in the air will be unable to jump gap and ignite fuel, under compression, in the cylinder. You want a nice fat, bluish spark that makes an audible "snap", too. Weak battery?

Sounds like a lot of cranking. Not trying to beat up on you here - but. Be careful, Extended cranking attempts to start will ruin a starter. Maybe not right away, like tomorrow. But soon enough.

Ever wonder how a tiny electric motor can turn over a big gas engine? Well they really can't, it turns out at least not for very long. Normally they are tasked only to run for just a split second. Once outside this duty cycle though, they will be roasted. Let cool down for at least 10 minutes between attempts.

Also, keep battery on a charger at a low ampere rate until things get sorted out. Batteries used in autos do not fare well being heavily discharged and presents a tremendous load to the charging system.