Hey guys -

Just finished installing a keyless entry system in my 91 F250. I was going to make it a full-blown 'how to' install, but I got impatient and didn't take a ton of pictures. Still, I thought a few notes on how I did the install might help others.

The kit I installed was this guy, a whopping $16 from Amazon: . But, may I suggest supporting a good American-made product by buying buy this one: . Honestly, had I known the Bulldog unit was Made in USA (I really wish Amazon made that kind of info more readily available), I would've bought that one instead.

Anywho, the install. If you read the reviews on the Docooler Unit (the one I installed), you'll quickly come to realize that its biggest issue is the included instructions, or lack thereof. Let me save you some hassle and tell you that the diagram you need to follow is 'Fig4 positive and negative trigger', but even that doesn't give you the full story. However, these awesome instructions from Bulldog tell you more of what you need to know: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/manua...0ManualLOW.pdf

In the Bulldog instructions, our trucks are what they call a 'Type C' configuration. Read the instructions on Page 10 (going by the numbers in the literature, not the PDF doc page numbers). Basically, you need to cut a couple of wires in the truck and hook the wiring harness of the unit inline to the truck's wiring. The wires are found behind the driver's side kick panel, color coded as follows:

- LOCK = Pink w/ green stripe
- UNLOCK = Black w/ orange stripe or Pink w/ yellow stripe. In my truck, the 'UNLOCK' was black/orange, though the 'orange' looked more 'yellow' to me. To confirm, I yanked the door lock switch out of the door panel and checked.

NOTE: These are the color codes for 87-93 per Bulldog's website. 94-96 are different. Link: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew...gdiagrams.aspx

Steps:

1. If you bought the Docooler, connect both yellow wires into the red wire on the harness IN BETWEEN THE FUSE AND THE CONNECTOR. This will ensure everything is protected by a fuse.

2. Remove driver's side kick panel. First, remove the black door plate (4 Phillips screws). Second, remove the retainer in the middle of the kick panel (kinda behind the hood latch), then pull the kick panel back towards the back of the truck. There are two retainers in the door sill portion of the kick panel that you're trying to break free. If you snap one, they sell them at any auto parts store for cheap.

3. Dig out the wiring harness that has the necessary wires. Mine was hanging out inside the sheet metal but came out easy enough.

4. Snip the pink/green and black/orange wires in a spot that will get you enough excess wiring length to make some connections. I cut mine in between the large connector and the length heading into the door.

5. If you bought the Bulldog, now would be when you would test the wires for the MOTOR and SWITCH side per the instructions on Page 10.

6. Wire in the control wires accordingly. For the Bulldog, follow their instructions. For the Docooler, connections are as follows (note: recall that I cut my wires in between the large connector in the harness and the door):

a. White with black stripe -> pink w/ green stripe (connector side)
b. White -> black w/ orange stripe (connector side)
c. Orange with black stripe -> pink w/ green stripe (door side)
d. Orange -> black w/ orange stripe (door side)

7. Wire in the ground wire and the constant +12V (red) wire accordingly. If you're installing the Bulldog unit, connect the purple wires to the same constant +12V source as the red wire as well. There are many excellent ground spots behind the kick panel. As for the constant +12V, I 'cheated' and ran a line from my aftermarket stereo harness that was an unused constant +12V.

8. Test and re-assemble.

Now, on the Docooler unit, there is a brown wire that is supposed to attach to the parking lights so that the lights will flash when you unlock/lock the vehicle. Supposedly, there's a brown wire behind the kick panel to attach to for this, but I couldn't find it. If anyone does, please let me know.

Hope this helps,

Mike

 

Good write up, been seeing more and more threads on keyless here lately.

 

Thanks. I had seen all the threads as well, which is what got me thinking about installing this. After I found the Docooler unit online for so cheap, I couldn't pass up the opportunity. I hadn't seen a lot of 'how-to' instructions, though, probably because good units like the Bulldog come with enough instructions that a handy DIY person can figure it out.

Mike

 

no they don't either.very vague.great writeup.

 

I have a 1991 f250 and did everything exactly as you did with the bulldog. When I went to test i used the unlock/lock button on the keypad and the module clicks but the doors don't lock/unlock. If I use the buttons on the door they do. I wasn't pulling 12 volts from the truck I was using a 12 volt box I have that plugs into a wall outlet but it gives ground and 12v. I used that just to test it before I wire it up and make it look pretty.

I'm stumped and don't know what to do at this point. Everything is wired correct. Is there a relay or something I'm missing?

 

I have the Bulldog remote start in my '89. I hooked up the power locks also.

I installed two relays in the drivers kick panel to toggle the door locks. I'd have to find my instructions. Have always worked great.

Here is what mine basically looks like, though likely the newest version:
Model KE1702 Vehicle Keyless Entry System

It now states it has built in door lock relays. Mine didn't, but it is 6yrs old and I know they upgrade stuff.

Bulldog comes with great instructions and wiring diagrams are available online for specific car models for stuff like wiring under the dash.

 

My Bulldog didn't come with or mention any relays. I followed all the instructions and wiring diagrams exactly even from the diagrams online. I just don't understand

 

What model Bulldog? I'd have to dig up my manual(I think in glovebox) and see what mine was.

Like I mentioned, that link shows the newest? version and it says "build in relay for locks". Mine didn't come with anything either, but the instructions stated you had to buy two relays and wire them to get the locks to work by remote.

The ouput signal for the locks is just a toggle signal(mine has one button, you push it and it toggles between UNLOCK and LOCK). You need two relays to activate the lock solenoid(one for each direction). I bought a pair that included the pigtails so they are easy to wire. The "lock" and "unlock" signal just fires the relay to push or pull the lock.

 

OK I will be looking into the relays. I bought the KE1702

 

How to Wire Relays - Door Locks - 5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive

May not help on the older trucks, but this is the relay set up I had to use on my 95 without factory keyless. All the relay setups are in there once you figure out what you need to do, as is all the rest of it actually.

I put in an old alarm from a past car I kept. Man thats a sucky job. I like wiring generally, maybe I'm just getting too old for this now, lol.. (34!)

 

I may have to do this. It would be unfortunate but I wouldn't be surprised

 

That looks like the circuit I built for mine. The alarm grounds the relay to activate it. Remember if you remove either relay you loose the button control at the doors. It cuts into the power wires and routes them through the relays. Remove the relay and the buttons won't work either. Just a heads up.

Get relays with the pigtail plug with them. Painless Wiring or maybe even Autozone might have them. Makes a much nicer, cleaner wiring job. And if you need to replace a relay it just unplugs instead of fighting with 5 separate wires.

Summit Racing:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5591pt/overview/

The real PITA is getting into the kick panel and chasing the wires and getting it soldered together. If you are young and agile it isn't so bad. People with bad backs cringe at it LOL!!

 

I got a question about the door side and connector side. Is there a reason for having to seperase them or can you just connect them both on the same side?
Thanks for the forum.

 

Welcome to the forums.

Not sure what you are asking?

 

Sorry for the confusing question. I was asking about step 6. On step 6a and 6ç you say connect the following wires to connector side and door side. My question is, would it make a difference to connect everything just on the door side or everything just on the connector side?
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