Engine ran before pulling to replace a bent pushrod.
Will start and run OK by force feeding w/ a bottle.
Have 40 psi on the fuel rail. Pumps run for about 1-2 sec. w/ key on.
Injectors will light a test light (12v) w/key on and pulse the light on the other terminal while cranking.
After reading Subford's post I did verify that:
I have power on pins 1,37,57 on computer and good ground at pins 40 and 60.
I have checked and rechecked all wire plugs. (not much way to get those wrong)
There are none that are not pluged, do have a vacume hose that I can't find a place for.(one end goes to PVC valve).
Pulling my hair out please help, Thanks,
John Starnes

 

you didn't say anything about spark.

 

Yes good spark. Runs w/no snort or backfire........as long as it's bottle fed.
Thanks,
John

 

Check this Link for testing the sensors.
Yea, I know, you have the 7.3, but the sensors are similar to the 5.8.

If it's anything like I went threw last year with a re-man, no start, no fuel problem, it came down to the MAP sensor, changed that out, and it fired up on the first try, after pulling all my hair out for 3 weeks.

If the ECU don't get a reading from the intake manifold "vacuum", it shuts the fuel pump down, and no fuel to fire the engine up.

Check where that loose vacuum hose goes, if it goes to the MAP, you problem is solved.

 

Will look for a place for that vacum hose tomorrow.
I did run the codes today and all I got was a 32......something to do with egr.
That wouldn't keep it from starting, would it?
Thanks,
John

 

Not really, the EGR does not kick in until the ECU go'es into "closed loop"

ECU goes into "closed loop" after the engine reaches operating temperature, about 190*+.

Code 32
EGR Not Controlling (2.3L OHC & 3.8L CFI)
EGR Valve Not Seated (1.9L CFI, 2.9L & 3.0L SHO)
EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR Voltage Below Closed Voltage (Others)

I would think that the loose vacuum hose you found has more to do with the starting and running than anything.

 

Checked the relays today per your link: all is good there.
Didn't find where the vac hose went, but did draw vacuum on it manually and it still didn't start.
Will check the map sensor tomorrow if I get up to it.
Need a break from that thing sometime>
Thanks,
John

 

Yea, I hear you on taking a break from it.........at times, that's what best

Keep checking that MAP sensor, that's what could be causing the no run, if your feeding it juice, and it runs, then the pump is shutting down and not feeding the go-juice, and the one thing that would cause that is the MAP sensor.

Another thought is to check the ECU itself. Pulling the ECU out and opening the case, check the 2 small capacitors on the circuit board, if you see any green "junk" that means the capacitors have leaked, and causing some serious problems. They can be re-placed, if you can, or replacing the ECU with a re-man board that meets your engine/tranny is a good way to go also.

 

Today I rented a noid light just in case my test light wasn't doing it right and the rv passed the noid light test on five injectors I could get to. I asume the rest were OK.
Also bought a reman ecm and still no start.
This thing is driven me to drinkin...........and I don't drink.
John

 

After you pulled the OEM, ECU did you open the case and check the board?
Check for any leaking capacitors? Any signs of burned circuits?

Just swapping out parts, and not checking the old part don't get you to home plate that fast, you need to "see" what's causing the problems.

Again, I went thru this, I stumped 2 Cerf mechanics, and found the problem with the MAP sensor. Read up on what the MAP does on that link I posted.

OK, try this.........with the air ducts off, either have a helper crank the engine, or jump the starter solenoid, and spray starting fluid into the throttle body intake. DON'T over spray, just a little shot at a time, if it acts like it want to start/catch, or even if you get back fire from the intake, You Have A Fuel Delivery Issue. In my case, it was the MAP.

Beware of the intake back fire, it took 3 months for the hair to grow back on my arm/hand.

If your getting some results with the starter fluid, like it's "catching" but not running, and before you dig into replacing the fuel pump, and you did check the pressure at the Schrader valve?? And your getting 30-45psi, then again, the MAP is not getting the vacuum from the intake, and not sending the signal to the ECU, which is shutting down the fuel pump relay.

If you still have that loose vacuum hose, and can not find the sensor it plugs into, at least stick a bolt into it to seal it off.

Another thought.........Did you check the fuel pressure regulator?? Is this where that loose vacuum hose attaches?? Is fuel leaking out the top vacuum hose end of the Press reg??

Oh, and if your going to start drinking.........stay away from that jim jones koolaid, that ain't no good for ya.

 

Yes I did take the cover off the old ecm and looked for the leaking capacitors and every thing looked nice and clean, w/ no burn't spots or anything.
I agree w/ you on swaping parts, but it was worth the 80.00 to eleminate that ??
Will investigate the map sensor today.
Yes it will run like a top if I bottle feed the engine. and yes I am leary of sticking my hand up in there where I have to w/ the gas bottle.
40 psi at the rail w/ ko and also cranking, holds pressure after release of key.
The vacume hose tee's onto the PCV and doesn't produce vacume while cranking.
The little hose going to the map sensor does have noticable vacume on it while cranking (it goes into the manafold after the throttle plates).
Fuel pressure regulator isn't leaking.
I was just messing w/ you about the drinking>
Thanks much,
John

 

I replaced the map sensor today.....still no start.
I will continue tomorrow.
Thanks,
John

 

That was not good to hear.........

Ok, Basic's ..........Engine needs Fuel, Spark and Compression to run, you have it running, as you bottle feed the fuel..........correct?

Problem lays with the fuel delivery. I kept saying the MAP sensor would cause that, as described, but it didn't........

I re-read from the start, you pulled the valve cover off to replace a bent push rod? Did you remove the upper intake manifold, the Plenum?

What else did you remove to replace the push-rod?

Your getting fuel into the fuel rail, and getting correct pressure at the schrader valve. Fuel pump is running at key on, then "resting" until start........

Got to be a problem with a fuel line? Fuel is being pressurized in the fuel rail, injectors are pulsing, but your not getting the volume (flow) of fuel needed.

Can you put a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve and crank, and see if the pressure drops below 30 psi. or even to 0.

Could a fuel line be pinched? Not connected correctly? Did you remove any of the fuel lines for the repair? Some junk in the fuel line? Have you changed the fuel in-line filter? Possibility some tank rust-scale plugging up the tank sock filters?

You checked the fuel pressure regulator, and that passed, right?

Just trying to help you out here........but I'm on a keyboard, and you have the wrench in hand, and van in front of you.......

 

And........I had another Wild thought today.........

The '89 era has 4-5 connectors hanging from the bulkhead, connecting to the engine's wiring, I had problems with the connectors on my last '89 to the point that I pulled the connector off, and butt spliced each wire, solve many problems that I had, like just shutting down for no reason, and got the cruse control working again.........you might want to check those connectors?

 

Had to do real work the last few days:
Yes , engine runs good when bottle fed.
Pulled the intake manafold off to get the bent pushrod out and the valve cover off to replace it.
Fuel pump is building 40 psi at the rail then shutting off. When cranking FP runs and holds 40 PSI. I did put a clear line on the return line (from the fuel rail) and it bypassed a small amount with KO and bypassed quite a bit more when cranking).???
When I took the intake man off I left the fuel rail, injectors all mounted. Have changed inline filter. Fuel regulator not leaking anywhere.

To do for today: Put test light on one injector and pull spark plug on that cylinder to see if the pulse/fire is in time with one another. (is it possible for them to be off time, or is the injector wired to fire with the spark??)
Will also check the bulkhead connectors visually and with a continuity meter.
Thanks for sticking with me,....how close are you anyway
John