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The inner bracing on the underside of the hood around the hinge area is different and the 56 hood has two carriage bolts that hold the cross brace at the rear center of the hood. This is very noticeable since the heads of the bolts are visible on the outside of the hood. I guess the point of my comment was to determine whether you were attempting to create a look that was a "survivor" look or just one that looked old. If all you are interested in is the "patina" then the 56 hood should work...that is if you can get one the right color.
Here's those rivets you are talking about Charlie but this is the only 53 hood I have, the 3 others I have are 56's without those rivets, I think there most have been a difference between Canadian and U.S. built trucks. These all came from the Oakville plant in Ontario.
Thanks for the info so far guys, very much appreciated.
What would the original license plate holder have looked like?
I see the new ones on several websites wich bolt to the tailgate hinge, is that the way it was?
Dropped the gas tank today to give it a good cleaning and found the only piece of rust on the truck, but looking at the way it's build it's made to rust!
I'm not sure how I'll fix it as putting in a new piece would put the weld just above the running board. Maybe I'll just glue a piece to the back to give it some strength. If
I'm feeling happier every time I work at it, it seems like I found one of very few "rust free" F100 trucks, even the common rusty gas filler opening is clean!
A the time of the build, Ford did nothing in the way of rust prevention, didn't even prime much of the rear sides of panels. Trucks were service/work vehicles, not intended for long term use and demand was very high after WW2. This is especially apparent anywhere a reinforcing doubler was used or two panels bolted together, the bottom of the fenders having both conditions. That lower fender both the outer skin and the doubler behind it needs to be cut off and replaced. See my fender repair tutorial here for similar repair on an F1 fender: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-try-2-a.html
Yes, the repair seam will be above the running board, so your painter will have another place that will need to be paint matched to the patina. I'd bite the bullet and pull the other running board and see what's hiding there as well. Gluing a piece to the back is a ghetto repair that will bite you down the road. If your truck is that rust free it deserves to be repaired correctly, "Do it right, do it once."
I understand where you're going, I haven't made up my mind yet, both outside holes are fine thats why I tought about "patching" it.
Cleaned the gas tank today, after about an hour of steam pressure cleaning and about 10 pounds of solig gas it's starting to get clean.
Are there any places that stock/salvage used F100 parts? Preferably in the mid-west as I go there about once a year.
I'd be looking for the hood, running boards and steel rims.
I think that once the inner fender doubler is removed you'll find that the skin metal has been substantially thinned to lace tissue paper and won't be strong enough to patch to. Every time someone steps on the running board the damage will increase. With the age of buildings etc in Belgium there must be more than a couple faux finish painters around that can blend in the patina, especially given how little would be visible.
Started on the fenders today. I decided to go half way between replacing and patching it. I know this isn't the best way but feel like it suits my abilities the best ans should be fine for a summer driven pick-up that sleeps inside.
It isn't done yet and far from perfect but I feel happy with my first time ever tackling sheet metal fabrication and welding.
its better to cut out the part (if this is your first time welding why don't you ask a guy that helps you, so you can learn it )
you get rust between the metal now
I chose to do it this way to keep the weld line as low as possible.
Everything in between has been coated with a special product to keep the rust away.
All edges will be tin covered to keep water away so it'll outlive me,
A good airbrush/custom painter worthy of the name should be able to repaint your hood to match the "patina" and color of the rest of the truck. The vinyl wrap guys could also create a convincing wrap. This a completely vinyl wrapped carbon fiber body:
Ax, I have never seen anything like it! Can't believe it is vinyl wrapped! Might do our kitchen cupboards in it
07-25-2015, 01:34 PM
