Any updates what gas engine will they put in the 2017?
#61
I think the larger problem with seafoam, etc. is in sending that carbon debris through the turbo. You can easily damage a vane that way and if that in itself doesn't kill the turbo, the resulting imbalance will kill it soon enough.
I also suspect the problem is not so much with oil instantaneously burning onto the valve, but rather oil sitting on the valve for some time, becoming too viscous to be blown off by airflow, and then eventually baking onto it over multiple heat cycles. It may also be that you get more blow by on cold startups, which needs an extended operation to clean off. That is, short drives at lower engine temps may well leave more oil on the valve which then builds up.
It would be no surprise to me if this is showing up on Explorers first, since they're the family workhorse. Crank it, drive it to the store, let it sit; crank it, head to the cleaners, let it sit; crank it, go to soccer practice, let it sit...
Until Ford offers better advice, the best preventative, imo, is a good synthetic oil.
I also suspect the problem is not so much with oil instantaneously burning onto the valve, but rather oil sitting on the valve for some time, becoming too viscous to be blown off by airflow, and then eventually baking onto it over multiple heat cycles. It may also be that you get more blow by on cold startups, which needs an extended operation to clean off. That is, short drives at lower engine temps may well leave more oil on the valve which then builds up.
It would be no surprise to me if this is showing up on Explorers first, since they're the family workhorse. Crank it, drive it to the store, let it sit; crank it, head to the cleaners, let it sit; crank it, go to soccer practice, let it sit...
Until Ford offers better advice, the best preventative, imo, is a good synthetic oil.
#62
Okay I'm going to avoid starting another oil thread here, but there doesn't appear to be a causal remedy or solution to behind valve build up by running any particular type (or brand) of motor oil. And to be fair to Ford, this isn't just a Ecoboost issue, but has become apparent for GM's smaller DI Ecotech engines also. The combustion byproducts need to go somewhere that satisfies emission requirements.
#63
Good evidence of this would be if any of the police explorers seem to do better than the civilian explorers, as though are running most of the day. Then again, I'm guessing most departments are not opting for the twin turbos (ours didn't, unfortunately)
#64
Okay I'm going to avoid starting another oil thread here, but there doesn't appear to be a causal remedy or solution to behind valve build up by running any particular type (or brand) of motor oil. And to be fair to Ford, this isn't just a Ecoboost issue, but has become apparent for GM's smaller DI Ecotech engines also. The combustion byproducts need to go somewhere that satisfies emission requirements.
The solution "has" to be a chemical cleaning, though. It's just way too expensive to require a head removal as part of standard maintenance at 60 or 100k miles.
#65
One person on the Pontiac Solstice Forum posted a good idea which he even posted photos of the procedure.. walnut blasting. He removed the intake manifold and using a portable sand blaster, used walnut shells to clean the intake port and valve on the intake port used for crankcase ventilation. Even though when done blasting he blew out the runner and cylinder with compressed air, any shell particles left over would just be burned in the combustion process. I think this would be a faster and more thorough process than solvents.
Scroll down in the discussion and you'll see the process and results. Pretty impressive: http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...le-vid-108817/
Scroll down in the discussion and you'll see the process and results. Pretty impressive: http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f...le-vid-108817/
#66
I like this idea. Removing the intake is a lot easier than the head(s). But, you would need to make sure the intake valves were closed, or you would be filling up your cylinders. I can only imagine though, what these guys will say to burnt walnut casings going through the turbos, which are apparently so fragile you can't so much as look at them wrong without bearings failing, seals, leaking, and vanes breaking.
#67
They will say go right ahead - it's your car, and your pocketbook.
#68
#69
But in a Direct Injected engine, the fuel isn't sprayed behind the valves, but directly into the cylinder. How would changing the valve timing get fuel on the back of the valves? Doing what you suggest would mean a LOT of fuel would need to be sprayed into the cylinder, probably causing a hydro-lock situation before ever rinsing the back of the intake valves.
#70
But in a Direct Injected engine, the fuel isn't sprayed behind the valves, but directly into the cylinder. How would changing the valve timing get fuel on the back of the valves? Doing what you suggest would mean a LOT of fuel would need to be sprayed into the cylinder, probably causing a hydro-lock situation before ever rinsing the back of the intake valves.
#71
#72
You are correct, and I think BMW even supplies the machine.
The thing about the walnut method is that as far as I know, it requires the valves have to be closed so the shells don't get into the cylinder (so they can't be passed on into the turbo). If so, then there's a caveat - you can't clean the valve seat. And if you're experiencing misfires due to the valve not closing, then there's probably carbon build up on the seat itself, which means that either it doesn't get cleaned or you can't actually do the service since you can't get the valve closed completely. At least that's the way I see it.
Now, I've heard of people using dry ice instead. With that, you could open the valves during cleaning since any ice that got in the cylinder just evaporates. That's a solution I'd be more inclined to accept, but of course you still have to worry about bits of carbon debris. Maybe a two-step process where you clean most of the gunk with the valves closed, then wash out the intake and do a second round with the valves open?
I don't know - it seems like one of those things where 99% of the people who did it would have no problem at all, but then there's that unlucky 1% or so who end up with a walnut shell jammed in their turbo.
The thing about the walnut method is that as far as I know, it requires the valves have to be closed so the shells don't get into the cylinder (so they can't be passed on into the turbo). If so, then there's a caveat - you can't clean the valve seat. And if you're experiencing misfires due to the valve not closing, then there's probably carbon build up on the seat itself, which means that either it doesn't get cleaned or you can't actually do the service since you can't get the valve closed completely. At least that's the way I see it.
Now, I've heard of people using dry ice instead. With that, you could open the valves during cleaning since any ice that got in the cylinder just evaporates. That's a solution I'd be more inclined to accept, but of course you still have to worry about bits of carbon debris. Maybe a two-step process where you clean most of the gunk with the valves closed, then wash out the intake and do a second round with the valves open?
I don't know - it seems like one of those things where 99% of the people who did it would have no problem at all, but then there's that unlucky 1% or so who end up with a walnut shell jammed in their turbo.
#73
I've heard Toyota has been looking at that idea, but having a second injector negates the advantages of DI, plus adds more parts to maintain and control with engine management systems. The idea of adding an injector to occasionally wash the back of the valves as a cleaning method reminds me of something similar with burning off DPFs in Powerstroke Diesels. A good idea on paper, but that's about it.
#74
You are correct, and I think BMW even supplies the machine.
The thing about the walnut method is that as far as I know, it requires the valves have to be closed so the shells don't get into the cylinder (so they can't be passed on into the turbo). If so, then there's a caveat - you can't clean the valve seat. And if you're experiencing misfires due to the valve not closing, then there's probably carbon build up on the seat itself, which means that either it doesn't get cleaned or you can't actually do the service since you can't get the valve closed completely. At least that's the way I see it.
Now, I've heard of people using dry ice instead. With that, you could open the valves during cleaning since any ice that got in the cylinder just evaporates. That's a solution I'd be more inclined to accept, but of course you still have to worry about bits of carbon debris. Maybe a two-step process where you clean most of the gunk with the valves closed, then wash out the intake and do a second round with the valves open?
I don't know - it seems like one of those things where 99% of the people who did it would have no problem at all, but then there's that unlucky 1% or so who end up with a walnut shell jammed in their turbo.
The thing about the walnut method is that as far as I know, it requires the valves have to be closed so the shells don't get into the cylinder (so they can't be passed on into the turbo). If so, then there's a caveat - you can't clean the valve seat. And if you're experiencing misfires due to the valve not closing, then there's probably carbon build up on the seat itself, which means that either it doesn't get cleaned or you can't actually do the service since you can't get the valve closed completely. At least that's the way I see it.
Now, I've heard of people using dry ice instead. With that, you could open the valves during cleaning since any ice that got in the cylinder just evaporates. That's a solution I'd be more inclined to accept, but of course you still have to worry about bits of carbon debris. Maybe a two-step process where you clean most of the gunk with the valves closed, then wash out the intake and do a second round with the valves open?
I don't know - it seems like one of those things where 99% of the people who did it would have no problem at all, but then there's that unlucky 1% or so who end up with a walnut shell jammed in their turbo.
#75
I've heard Toyota has been looking at that idea, but having a second injector negates the advantages of DI, plus adds more parts to maintain and control with engine management systems. The idea of adding an injector to occasionally wash the back of the valves as a cleaning method reminds me of something similar with burning off DPFs in Powerstroke Diesels. A good idea on paper, but that's about it.