Considering making the move to NBS
#1
Considering making the move to NBS
So....
I currently have a mostly clean 97 SCLB PSD that recently had a tread separation issue that effectively destroyed a bedside.
As the repair shops seem to be having difficulty finding a decent bedside this has me thinking of moving to a NBS.
My plans for this truck included re-doing the interior to make it quieter, and I picked up a set of 09 axles and frame to do a 2wd>4wd conversion. I already have 05-ish Lariat seats in (which I love) and the SD steering wheel with the cruse/audio/AC controls installed. I do like my creature comforts.
My big complaint that I can not change is rear seat access is almost non-existent with my current seats (they don't fold forward) and even with my original 40/20/40 seats access kinda sucked.
As I am already very comfortable with the 7.3 I'd like to stick with it.
Based on some preliminary research I think my optimal config would be an 02 SCLB Lariat 4x4 Automatic.
So here are my questions:
1.) are the SD's that much quieter inside?
2.) Are there any major drive-train issues that are specific to the SD 7.3 that I should look out for?
3.) Is my "optimal config" something that I should expect to find (haven't been able to locate many in some brief searches)?
4.) how bad is ESOF? I glanced over the sticky and am still working my way through it. Almost all of the Lariats I came across had it.
5.) if I can't find a loaded Lariat how bad is it to swap in the parts?
6.) Is there a detailed listing somewhere of all the trim levels and packages and what was in them along with year model changes? (my google foo seems to be weak)
7.) how bad is it to retrofit the electronic AC controls? is it about the same as the OBS guide?
8.) any other thoughts or things I should be considering that are specific to the NBS?
Richard
EDT: oh yea... I haven't really seen much comment WRT the downpipe on the turbo... is that not an issue on the SD? on the OBS side the first mods were always 3" DP and 6673.
I currently have a mostly clean 97 SCLB PSD that recently had a tread separation issue that effectively destroyed a bedside.
As the repair shops seem to be having difficulty finding a decent bedside this has me thinking of moving to a NBS.
My plans for this truck included re-doing the interior to make it quieter, and I picked up a set of 09 axles and frame to do a 2wd>4wd conversion. I already have 05-ish Lariat seats in (which I love) and the SD steering wheel with the cruse/audio/AC controls installed. I do like my creature comforts.
My big complaint that I can not change is rear seat access is almost non-existent with my current seats (they don't fold forward) and even with my original 40/20/40 seats access kinda sucked.
As I am already very comfortable with the 7.3 I'd like to stick with it.
Based on some preliminary research I think my optimal config would be an 02 SCLB Lariat 4x4 Automatic.
So here are my questions:
1.) are the SD's that much quieter inside?
2.) Are there any major drive-train issues that are specific to the SD 7.3 that I should look out for?
3.) Is my "optimal config" something that I should expect to find (haven't been able to locate many in some brief searches)?
4.) how bad is ESOF? I glanced over the sticky and am still working my way through it. Almost all of the Lariats I came across had it.
5.) if I can't find a loaded Lariat how bad is it to swap in the parts?
6.) Is there a detailed listing somewhere of all the trim levels and packages and what was in them along with year model changes? (my google foo seems to be weak)
7.) how bad is it to retrofit the electronic AC controls? is it about the same as the OBS guide?
8.) any other thoughts or things I should be considering that are specific to the NBS?
Richard
EDT: oh yea... I haven't really seen much comment WRT the downpipe on the turbo... is that not an issue on the SD? on the OBS side the first mods were always 3" DP and 6673.
#2
1.) are the SD's that much quieter inside?
Less wind noise, for sure. I can't hear my radio over the cold 7.3, going uphill in the morning....
2.) Are there any major drive-train issues that are specific to the SD 7.3 that I should look out for?
Ball joints, tie rod ends, driveshaft slip joint (hmm... a Ford tradition). 4R100 transmissions
3.) Is my "optimal config" something that I should expect to find (haven't been able to locate many in some brief searches)?
Crew cab short bed - always popular ( = good resale)
4.) how bad is ESOF? I glanced over the sticky and am still working my way through it. Almost all of the Lariats I came across had it.
A set of Milemarker manual hubs fixes this problem for $130 or so.
8.) any other thoughts or things I should be considering that are specific to the NBS?
Door lock solenoids will either have failed, or be fixed by now.
Less wind noise, for sure. I can't hear my radio over the cold 7.3, going uphill in the morning....
2.) Are there any major drive-train issues that are specific to the SD 7.3 that I should look out for?
Ball joints, tie rod ends, driveshaft slip joint (hmm... a Ford tradition). 4R100 transmissions
3.) Is my "optimal config" something that I should expect to find (haven't been able to locate many in some brief searches)?
Crew cab short bed - always popular ( = good resale)
4.) how bad is ESOF? I glanced over the sticky and am still working my way through it. Almost all of the Lariats I came across had it.
A set of Milemarker manual hubs fixes this problem for $130 or so.
8.) any other thoughts or things I should be considering that are specific to the NBS?
Door lock solenoids will either have failed, or be fixed by now.
#3
Steve covered it well. But to elaborate, the ESOF system is great as long as the hubs are regularly exercised or cleaned/lubed. The rubber vacuum lines to the front hubs rot away but that's the only other common issue, and it's easy and cheap to fix. When the hoses/vacuum system is bad the AC will blow defrost only. I do not use 4X4 often and mine became unreliable, so I switched to completely reliable Mile Markers. Warn hubs are more popular.
If interior space is a priority the crew cab is the a big step in the right direction.
The long bed will get you a larger fuel tank. Hutch/Harpoon mod is pretty much mandatory in my book.
The Failure Prevention Thread covers the usual suspects to look out for.
Traditionally when guys move from OBS to NBS they gift the OBS to the second poster as a right of passage.
J/k! But there is a lot of love for OBS around here.
On edit: a good thread by another OBS to NBS member, Strokin_tatsch's SD Rebuild.
If interior space is a priority the crew cab is the a big step in the right direction.
The long bed will get you a larger fuel tank. Hutch/Harpoon mod is pretty much mandatory in my book.
The Failure Prevention Thread covers the usual suspects to look out for.
Traditionally when guys move from OBS to NBS they gift the OBS to the second poster as a right of passage.
J/k! But there is a lot of love for OBS around here.
On edit: a good thread by another OBS to NBS member, Strokin_tatsch's SD Rebuild.
#4
#5
Quick question for you all...
Do all duallies have the 8 ft bed? And is there a full bedside behind the rear fender flares?
Reason I ask is that in order to get what I want I might have to get a duallie. If I do I would make is a SRW. I already have the axle but I would rather not have to replace the bedsides if I can just strip the fender flares.
Richard
Do all duallies have the 8 ft bed? And is there a full bedside behind the rear fender flares?
Reason I ask is that in order to get what I want I might have to get a duallie. If I do I would make is a SRW. I already have the axle but I would rather not have to replace the bedsides if I can just strip the fender flares.
Richard
#6
As far as I know the bedside is under there, but it's ulgy.
Another issue is the rear end. To make it look "factory" you would need to something with the diff/rear ended. I'm not sure if you can just change the outboard section of the rear diff to a SRW setup of if you would need to swap the whole rear end.
Another issue is the rear end. To make it look "factory" you would need to something with the diff/rear ended. I'm not sure if you can just change the outboard section of the rear diff to a SRW setup of if you would need to swap the whole rear end.
#7
As far as I know the bedside is under there, but it's ulgy.
Another issue is the rear end. To make it look "factory" you would need to something with the diff/rear ended. I'm not sure if you can just change the outboard section of the rear diff to a SRW setup of if you would need to swap the whole rear end.
Another issue is the rear end. To make it look "factory" you would need to something with the diff/rear ended. I'm not sure if you can just change the outboard section of the rear diff to a SRW setup of if you would need to swap the whole rear end.
Richard
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#9
What are you doing up here?
NBS will be a quieter ride. Starts with just closing the door when you get in. Lot's more plastic, lots less truck feel.
With the update, you get e-fuel, cheaper up pipes, cheaper turbo options, upgraded UVCH harnesses (still come loose and need a shim, but don't often melt or burn pins) You also switch from two tanks to one and pick up the hydro boost, intercooler, and drain plug on the transmission pan.
Otherwise it's the same 7.3 with the alternator mounted on the other side. The 4R100 / E4OD are close enough to not show any real advantage one way or the other.
As mentioned, ask Travis. He recently got a NBS to drive around.
NBS will be a quieter ride. Starts with just closing the door when you get in. Lot's more plastic, lots less truck feel.
With the update, you get e-fuel, cheaper up pipes, cheaper turbo options, upgraded UVCH harnesses (still come loose and need a shim, but don't often melt or burn pins) You also switch from two tanks to one and pick up the hydro boost, intercooler, and drain plug on the transmission pan.
Otherwise it's the same 7.3 with the alternator mounted on the other side. The 4R100 / E4OD are close enough to not show any real advantage one way or the other.
As mentioned, ask Travis. He recently got a NBS to drive around.
#10
#11
#12
Putting a coil spring front end on a 99-03 superduty would cure my only real complaint with the platform. The turning radius on a leaf spring NBS superduty sucks.
I guess it doesn't bother me that much though, I've been driving mine for more than a decade and almost 500k miles and haven't gotten rid of it or swapped to coils.
#13
#14
Putting a coil spring front end on a 99-03 superduty would cure my only real complaint with the platform. The turning radius on a leaf spring NBS superduty sucks.
I guess it doesn't bother me that much though, I've been driving mine for more than a decade and almost 500k miles and haven't gotten rid of it or swapped to coils.
I guess it doesn't bother me that much though, I've been driving mine for more than a decade and almost 500k miles and haven't gotten rid of it or swapped to coils.
I was excited when Chevy came out with the 4 wheel steering, but they overpriced it at first, then screwed the dealers over next when they cut the price so they ended up killing it instead of making Ford and Dodge follow suit.
I think the newer coiled trucks do turn a little sharper, but not by a whole lot.
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IDI-Charlie
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
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10-02-2016 09:29 AM