Haven't posted for a while or worked on the truck as I have been driving it back and forth to work. Since I leave it in public places more, decided to get the door lock working. Searched forum but don't seem to be as patient as I probably never was.


The issue is lining up the locking shaft mechanism , key won't turn the cylinder to actuate the lock. I following the manual instruction to insert a wire through the hole on inside of door, and get the shaft in line with the hole but it does not operate the lock. Do I have to remove the whole latch assembly to ensure all pieces are operable? Comments welcome.


Tom

 

I am not familiar with the F1 lock, but on the F100 it is easy to install the door lock with the locking pawl on the wrong side of the latch mechanism lever, and/or to have the pawl installed on the cylinder upside down.
IMHO it's not that hard to remove the latch mechanism to check it's operation and completeness, and verify how the latch and cylinder needs to be oriented to work. I'd also clean and grease the latch mechanism while it's out.

 

If you haven't already done so, remove the lock cylinder from the door and verify that it is working properly with the key. Then with the cylinder removed use a screw driver, from the outside of the door, appropriately sized to fit into the square hole normally occupied by the square shaft of the lock cylinder to turn the lock mechanism to see if it is functioning properly. This will tell you if removal of the lock mechanism is needed for further investigation.
I removed the latch/lock many more times than I liked to get my power door locks to work with the key as well. I also installed power windows that make removal of the door lock mechanisms much more challenging.

 

The F-1 lock cylinder turns a square shaft that mates in a square hole in the latch. If you take a screwdriver of the right size, with the lock cylinder out you can stick it in there and turn the locking pawl. If it won't turn with the screwdriver, something in the latch mechanism is messed up. The key lock is independent of the interior locking (using the door handle).

(edit -- Bill is quicker on the draw!)

 

Also want to remind everyone the key cylinder turns only 360 deg. then it hits a internal stop and the same on the lock part also... So if the aren't in-sink you wont be able to turn it either way.

 

I think you mean 90 degrees?

 

On a Monkey Face with the lock installed it rotates about 280 deg to lock and unlock the door with the lock out it can go 360 deg and pull the key out... I had mine out trying to get my new ignition cylinder rekeyed to the same as the door. I never knew the hole that was there was to help guide the lock into the lock cam... thnx

 

Thanks guys, I will try to operate the lock mechanism through the door hole first. Did notice that my passenger inner door handle is quite stiff. Probably a sign that something is amiss with the mechanism.


Been preoccupied with getting my '59 bug back on the road. Motor is near ready to hoist back in. Can't wait to putt around in it once it is road worthy.


Rained heavily yesterday, went into the big lights to pick bug up parts and my wipers quit working. I converted to electric and am now thinking going back to original setup as the motor and linkage are very tight under the dash.


Tom

 

I just installed my door lock a couple months ago. With the cylinder in the fully locked or unlocked position, the shaft had a slight angle that made it difficult to line up with the hole. I had to back the cylinder and the lock (shaft hole) about a quarter turn before I could get things to line up correctly.

 

Took door lock assembly out and successfully loosened it up with penetrating oil and then grease. Works good and gives me the false security of being able to lock the truck in public places.


One thing off the to do list on the truck, many left on the 1959 bug.


Tom

 

I am trying to replace the door lock cylinder in my '52 F1. I anticipated finding something like a 1/4" slot-head lock screw holding in the cylinder, but found something that looks a little like the head of an allen screw, or at least it has a 3/32 round hole where I anticipated the slot-head. Does anyone know if what I found is what should be expected, or perhaps can describe what I should find? Also, could I likely be able to get to the lock cylinder by removing the door lock assembly?

 

Hi Chuck There are two holes on the side of the (passenger) door . The screw in the upper hole holds the outside door handle, and the lower hole has the small Allen screw you described that holds the lock cylinder (at least on a 50) if I remember correctly. Yours may be rounded out, mine was.

 

Be VERY careful trying to get the allen screw out! I left it to the "pros" at the body shop, and they successfully twisted the entire sleeve that the set screw sits in off the sleeve inside the door. No way to repair without removing the door skin...

Personally I'd try a 1/8" left-hand drill bit, taking it really slowly. With any luck it may start it spinning out. I would also replace it with a SS allen head screw that is longer, so the recessed head is further out in the hole. Slather it with anti-seize, too.

 

Thanks Jimmy and Ross. Not without some trepidation I did get the cylinder lock screw out. I gently tried a small screw extractor, but that seemed to not be working, so I tried a left-hand drill bit. That did not seem to be immediately successful so I switched back and forth between the extractor and left-hand bit. Eventually it came out with a 7/64 left-hand bit. I did not notice until I twisted the screw carcass off the bit that the bit had broken inside the screw. ...headed out to buy a lottery ticket. Thanks for the tips.