Aluminum Camper Build
#16
Next we have the fridge. Its going to go right in front of the kitchen sink cabinet. It will block about 2 feet of my 4 foot countertop but that's not a big problem. Its not like I will have a useable cabinet there anyway. That 2 ft of cabinet will house the water heater and water pump with access panels on the inside of the cabinet under the sink along with the outside panels/vents.
It appears that this the best picture of the fridge exterior that I took. All you can see is the doors through the pull-out cabinet. I like the pull-out but space is limited so I can't have that.
Inside the fridge.
As with the other kitchen stuff, it doesn't look like the fridge was ever used and it works great. We didn't test if it works on gas too but it definitely works with electric. If its like the fridge we have in the truck camper and pop-up, I'll use it to store bread & chips anyway.
Almost forgot, the fridge vents. The donor has one vent at the bottom of the fridge and the other goes through the roof. Reading through the manual, it shows that the ventilation can be done this way or with a low and upper side vent. This is the option we want to go with rather than putting something else through the roof. Any tips are welcome.
It appears that this the best picture of the fridge exterior that I took. All you can see is the doors through the pull-out cabinet. I like the pull-out but space is limited so I can't have that.
Inside the fridge.
As with the other kitchen stuff, it doesn't look like the fridge was ever used and it works great. We didn't test if it works on gas too but it definitely works with electric. If its like the fridge we have in the truck camper and pop-up, I'll use it to store bread & chips anyway.
Almost forgot, the fridge vents. The donor has one vent at the bottom of the fridge and the other goes through the roof. Reading through the manual, it shows that the ventilation can be done this way or with a low and upper side vent. This is the option we want to go with rather than putting something else through the roof. Any tips are welcome.
Just my two cents worth on that,
Steve
#17
Back to the cabinets - I have a problem. The problem is my boss told me about some real light weight wood one of the salesmen told him about. I got a sample and brought it home to show Steve "before" checking on the price. It 3/4" balsawood board, durable and only weighs 31.75 lbs for a 4x8' board, which is great since tongue weight is a concern. A 3/4" sheet of ply is just over 64 lbs.
I should have checked the price before showing it to Steve because Holy sh....t!!! my cost is $200.00 a 4x8 sheet. I found the price out yesterday because its not something our supplier stocks (wonder why) so she had to research it. My boss only gave me a certain allowance for cabinets/wood/labor before its going to cost me and even if we only used this wood for the cabinets in front of the axles, that would be all we get, unfinished wood. Steve & I need to discuss the options again.
We have a little 3000 Honda that will fit in the storage area when we need to take a generator. The Onan 5500 that was in the donor works but man is that thing huge and way more than what we need. I'm not entirely sure we'll ever pull this camper with the Jeep but he wants it to be an option. Our F350 Dually will more than handle this little 18 footer.
#19
I talked to our shop foreman and he said he can build me whatever custom cabinets I want so I'm going that route, that and further inspection of the doors show some mold damage and I don't want to chance it. This TH sat in a field from 2006 or 07 until we bought it in 2014. Still, for $900. its one heck of a lot cheaper than buying everything new.
Back to the cabinets - I have a problem. The problem is my boss told me about some real light weight wood one of the salesmen told him about. I got a sample and brought it home to show Steve "before" checking on the price. It 3/4" balsawood board, durable and only weighs 31.75 lbs for a 4x8' board, which is great since tongue weight is a concern. A 3/4" sheet of ply is just over 64 lbs.
I should have checked the price before showing it to Steve because Holy sh....t!!! my cost is $200.00 a 4x8 sheet. I found the price out yesterday because its not something our supplier stocks (wonder why) so she had to research it. My boss only gave me a certain allowance for cabinets/wood/labor before its going to cost me and even if we only used this wood for the cabinets in front of the axles, that would be all we get, unfinished wood. Steve & I need to discuss the options again.
We have a little 3000 Honda that will fit in the storage area when we need to take a generator. The Onan 5500 that was in the donor works but man is that thing huge and way more than what we need. I'm not entirely sure we'll ever pull this camper with the Jeep but he wants it to be an option. Our F350 Dually will more than handle this little 18 footer.
Back to the cabinets - I have a problem. The problem is my boss told me about some real light weight wood one of the salesmen told him about. I got a sample and brought it home to show Steve "before" checking on the price. It 3/4" balsawood board, durable and only weighs 31.75 lbs for a 4x8' board, which is great since tongue weight is a concern. A 3/4" sheet of ply is just over 64 lbs.
I should have checked the price before showing it to Steve because Holy sh....t!!! my cost is $200.00 a 4x8 sheet. I found the price out yesterday because its not something our supplier stocks (wonder why) so she had to research it. My boss only gave me a certain allowance for cabinets/wood/labor before its going to cost me and even if we only used this wood for the cabinets in front of the axles, that would be all we get, unfinished wood. Steve & I need to discuss the options again.
We have a little 3000 Honda that will fit in the storage area when we need to take a generator. The Onan 5500 that was in the donor works but man is that thing huge and way more than what we need. I'm not entirely sure we'll ever pull this camper with the Jeep but he wants it to be an option. Our F350 Dually will more than handle this little 18 footer.
I rebuilt the back of a fifth wheel not long ago and the two 4x8 matching sheets of paneling I got with crating and shipping set me back $326.
Yeah, the 5,500 is huge. You should be able to sell it, if you are not going to use it. We have a Yamaha 2,000 and 2,400 and also tow with a F350 dually which is kind of nuts for our 26-foot fifth wheel. The 2,400 will usually pull the AC, but it really screams. I put solar and a 2,000 watt inverter/charger in our fiver, not an easy fit, but you will not find it, unless you know where to look. I used a 50-amp distribution center for the breakers, but split the distribution so one side is fed only by the shoreline and one by the shoreline or the inverter. That made a pretty sanitary installation without a second box.
I worry about you using the the Jeep as a tow vehicle, but I guess that is just me.
We also dry camp or else state parks or the National Forest in the Smokies. Right now I am looking at large fifth wheel at the repo auction as a donor for whatever we come up with next.
Steve
#20
Its amazing with all of the damage in the front of the donor that the glass shower stall didn't break.
The shower is going to sit right smack in the middle of the V with the toilet to the left. We're not putting a sink in here since we'll have limited space. Don't really see a need for one anyway.
The only cabinet I plan for the bathroom is right at the entry door. Space permitting, I want an open cabinet for storing shoes/boots when you first walk into the camper with a cabinet 20" deep for hanging jackets right above it. Any vacant space like behind the shoe/boot cabinet will be additional storage in the bathroom. I won't know for sure how to design this cabinet though until we get to do actual measurements but we have allowed for a 18"ish wide cabinet. The bathroom door will be between this cabinet and the kitchen cabinet.
The shower is going to sit right smack in the middle of the V with the toilet to the left. We're not putting a sink in here since we'll have limited space. Don't really see a need for one anyway.
The only cabinet I plan for the bathroom is right at the entry door. Space permitting, I want an open cabinet for storing shoes/boots when you first walk into the camper with a cabinet 20" deep for hanging jackets right above it. Any vacant space like behind the shoe/boot cabinet will be additional storage in the bathroom. I won't know for sure how to design this cabinet though until we get to do actual measurements but we have allowed for a 18"ish wide cabinet. The bathroom door will be between this cabinet and the kitchen cabinet.
#21
BTW, the cabinet shop I work at mfg's commercial cabinets only so we don't run into this weight issue. We build them to last forever.
Yeah, the 5,500 is huge. You should be able to sell it, if you are not going to use it. We have a Yamaha 2,000 and 2,400 and also tow with a F350 dually which is kind of nuts for our 26-foot fifth wheel. The 2,400 will usually pull the AC, but it really screams. I put solar and a 2,000 watt inverter/charger in our fiver, not an easy fit, but you will not find it, unless you know where to look. I used a 50-amp distribution center for the breakers, but split the distribution so one side is fed only by the shoreline and one by the shoreline or the inverter. That made a pretty sanitary installation without a second box.
I guess once we have a bathroom I won't be able to call it primitive anymore. Dry Camping, I like that.
#23
More interior stuff we took out.
The stereo and speakers are a must.
Not sure that we'll use all 4 speakers but I really like these ceiling mount ones. I imagine 4 speakers would be overkill.
The AC roof vent brings us to another issue.
We want to keep the thermostat since it also controls the furnace and don't really want to spend however much it is to convert to the non-central AC vent unit. We're also not going to run any ductwork anywhere. Here's Steve's idea: Since our roof space is like 2" and the donor's is 4", he wants to build 2" aluminum tubing to secure the vent to with cutouts on the inside of the tubing where the donor has ductwork and cutouts on the outside of the tubing to direct the forced air to the front & back of the camper. Would we need to put some kind of insulation on the inside of the tubing along with the outside of it to help control condensation from dripping? Any suggestions on the type of insulation?
The stereo and speakers are a must.
Not sure that we'll use all 4 speakers but I really like these ceiling mount ones. I imagine 4 speakers would be overkill.
The AC roof vent brings us to another issue.
We want to keep the thermostat since it also controls the furnace and don't really want to spend however much it is to convert to the non-central AC vent unit. We're also not going to run any ductwork anywhere. Here's Steve's idea: Since our roof space is like 2" and the donor's is 4", he wants to build 2" aluminum tubing to secure the vent to with cutouts on the inside of the tubing where the donor has ductwork and cutouts on the outside of the tubing to direct the forced air to the front & back of the camper. Would we need to put some kind of insulation on the inside of the tubing along with the outside of it to help control condensation from dripping? Any suggestions on the type of insulation?
#24
More interior stuff we took out.
The stereo and speakers are a must.
Not sure that we'll use all 4 speakers but I really like these ceiling mount ones. I imagine 4 speakers would be overkill.
The AC roof vent brings us to another issue.
We want to keep the thermostat since it also controls the furnace and don't really want to spend however much it is to convert to the non-central AC vent unit. We're also not going to run any ductwork anywhere. Here's Steve's idea: Since our roof space is like 2" and the donor's is 4", he wants to build 2" aluminum tubing to secure the vent to with cutouts on the inside of the tubing where the donor has ductwork and cutouts on the outside of the tubing to direct the forced air to the front & back of the camper. Would we need to put some kind of insulation on the inside of the tubing along with the outside of it to help control condensation from dripping? Any suggestions on the type of insulation?
The stereo and speakers are a must.
Not sure that we'll use all 4 speakers but I really like these ceiling mount ones. I imagine 4 speakers would be overkill.
The AC roof vent brings us to another issue.
We want to keep the thermostat since it also controls the furnace and don't really want to spend however much it is to convert to the non-central AC vent unit. We're also not going to run any ductwork anywhere. Here's Steve's idea: Since our roof space is like 2" and the donor's is 4", he wants to build 2" aluminum tubing to secure the vent to with cutouts on the inside of the tubing where the donor has ductwork and cutouts on the outside of the tubing to direct the forced air to the front & back of the camper. Would we need to put some kind of insulation on the inside of the tubing along with the outside of it to help control condensation from dripping? Any suggestions on the type of insulation?
i have never done what I am proposing, but can see no reason it would not work.
#25
I am not sure you even want to mess with this, but here is the URL for the largest RV salvage in the United States Colaw RV Used Parts - We Have Your Part.... If I were trying to track salvage parts, cabinets doors, etc., I likely would look here.
In the olden days Winnebago used to have a huge warehouse in Iowa right down from the plant where I used to spend hours, but for reasons unknown to me they did away with it.
In the olden days Winnebago used to have a huge warehouse in Iowa right down from the plant where I used to spend hours, but for reasons unknown to me they did away with it.
#26
Correction: I just had Steve read this whole thing. I only have 2 corrections to this thread so far.
1. The trailer needs to be less than 9' on the drivers side.
2. He said he never had any intention of pulling it with the Jeep. Maybe I was thinking of when we bought the pop-up?
If that's all I got wrong so far, I'm doing good.
1. The trailer needs to be less than 9' on the drivers side.
2. He said he never had any intention of pulling it with the Jeep. Maybe I was thinking of when we bought the pop-up?
If that's all I got wrong so far, I'm doing good.
#29
#30
We're going to use a heavy gauge aluminum sheeting with stainless torx screws. We could get by with a lesser gauge like they do with cargo trailers but hopefully we won't end up with the wavy sides like you see on many of the cargo trailers. I think the color is called sand stone.