My 1356 has both a cable, like a speedo cable, and an electrical connection. I thought this one took a speedo cable where the clip goes in the picture. No?

 

Consolidating more info on the 1356. This post, again FTE, says that the 87 - 89 Broncos had a fixed yoke on the rear, while the 90's and later had the fixed flange.

 

Gary, the same snap-in cable that fits the non-sensor system works in the sensor system. You can just use whatever speedometer driven gear and cable you had in dad's truck originally unless you want to use a one piece speedometer cable and do away with the in-line speed sensor for cruise control.

 

Exactly what I wanted to see. Thanks, Bill!

 

No problem sir, have fun with it, sounds like all the pieces are starting to fall together.

 

Thanks. Yes, the pieces are falling together. Here's what I just learned by talking to Scott at Midwest:

• Their #TCFRD008 is for an 87-91 Bronco so comes with a rear output shaft instead of a slip-yoke, and a speedo output for $667. (Note that it comes with a "shaft" not a "yoke".)
• When they rebuild one it is essentially new as all wear items are replaced including the chain, planetary, bearings, etc. In fact, frequently the only things re-used are the case and shafts. The upgrades include the needed fix to the oil pump and boring out the hole for the shift shaft and installing an oilite bushing as otherwise it'll probably leak there since the shaft runs on the magnesium housing.
• Shipping will probably run $130 round-trip, and there's no tax.
• However, the $667 doesn't include yokes or flanges as they assume the buyer will have theirs. But they'll sell me the front yoke for $45 and the rear yoke (not flange) for $65.
• If I want to convert my 1356 to fixed yoke they'll sell me the shaft, housing, and rear yoke for $200.
• He agreed that cutting the ears off of the double-Cardan to retain the bearing caps would work fine. Or, I could buy the front yoke for $45 and then the larger u-joint (~$25) to fit.

So, it looks like $932 ($667 + $130 shipping plus $110 for yokes plus $25 for larger u-joint) would get me an essentially new BW1356 that would bolt in and use my existing drive shafts. To make a fair comparison, it would cost me $797 ($667 + $130 shipping) for a comparable NP208. That means the difference is $135.

I've done a LOT of reading about this (and have formed some opinions about other sites vs FTE, and FTE wins easily). The opinions vary from some who say the 1356 is just a bit stronger than the 208 to those who say it is much stronger - but no one anywhere says the 208 is better. Those who say it is just a bit stronger include two of the pro's I've talked to here in Tulsa, but they both did say the 1356 is the better of the two as it has an updated planetary design and an oil pump. And David at Harmon's said if he were doing it on his "baby" he'd do the 1356.

Given that I'm now leaning to the 1356 with front and rear yokes as I think the $135 difference is worth it. But that then begs the question of where.

• Midwest: I now know the cost from Midwest is $932.
• Big D's: I have a range of from $650 to $1050 from Big D's 4wd (Dallas) - including the fixed yokes. But, I don't know what all he does internally so will need to determine that when he gets back from his missionary trip in a couple of weeks.
• Friend: I need to determine what my/Bruno's friend can do it for. Obviously we won't know what is needed until the case is opened up, but I know the chain is $142 and the planetary gearset is $175. Adding in the basic bearing and seal kit of $88 we are to $405 - without labor. Perhaps the planetary doesn't need to be replaced, so that would drop it to $230. Then I'd have to do the machine work on the case to put in the oilite bushing. Or, maybe mine isn't worn? Hmmmm

 

I know I'm late to the party but I bought a slip yoke for my F250 from JBG for under $100 delivered when I had all my driveshaft problems.
The original put up with 25 years of abuse and only had sloppy splines due to the known bushing wear.

It was in a Dana Spicer box and if I had a better handle on things I could give you their stock number.
Ford used odd U-joints all the time. There's nothing difficult about finding them.

 

I will throw $100 at your F350 T case if you are going to let it go for that.

Sorry I am late as well. I have been helping James build a front porch with a wheelchair ramp at Mama and Grandmama's place. So I have been pulling a double shift in this lovely weather.

Sounds like you have been doing some homework. David is good! Richard at AT&T is too, but that is part of Lester's. Richard(AT&T axels transmissions and transfers) and Scotty (Inland) are pretty much the authorities around Tulsa on gear stuff, but David is right in there too. David is more specialized in the 4X4 offroad area. So he is my go to on modified builds like yours. Whatever he tells you about this stuff you can take it to the bank. Also, he doesnt mind talking to you about these things regardless if he gets a sell or not. He likes to help people with his field of expertise.

Keep in mind James can rebuild anything you need and he is w/o a job right now . It would be money well appreciated coming his way. However, it seems like you have done A LOT of research and I would hate to throw another variable in there.

 

Jim - Thanks for the info.

Branden - If James is out of of a job then he gets my work. I'll text you about this.

 

OK, I threw out the short throw shift on the ZF5 mod. So it is only right that I throw out the twin stick 1356 mod too:

Behemoth Drivetrain - BW 1356 Twin Stick Kits - FSB Forums

 

Jim - I didn't mean to sound so indifferent to your info. I was just in shock that James was out of a job. I'm going to talk to him tomorrow about the options and see what he recommends. Maybe a slip-yoke is a good option for me if he can also do the driveshaft.

Bruno - Thanks, but I doubt the truck will see any off-roading for a loooong time. Maybe until I'm in a rest home? So, I don't think I need a twin-stick setup. But, I do appreciate the thought.

 

Well, you know I am just trying to throw some more angles into the mix.

 

Gary you didn't sound indifferent...
Just wanted you to know that genuine parts were readily available
Be sure to install the correct drive gear on the output dentent for your rear ratio before buttoning up the tailshaft housing
Welding up the pump arm of the 1356 is a given if the case is open
I think modified arms are available as well

 

The pump arm mod IMO needs to be done. When I pulled the motor out of the Bronco not only was it locked up, the transmission bellhousing was shattered and the pump arm was in the t case gear mesh. So it was locked up as well. Had I not seen the problem first hand I might be skeptical about it.

 

Bruno - The pump arm mod is a must for me. But the bushing on the shift shaft is questionable. We'll find out when James gets the case apart, assuming he does the work, what shape the case and shaft are in. If a bushing is needed the parts will come back to a machine shop near me for a bushing.

Jim - You had me worried about the drive gear, so I pulled the speedo connector out of the 1356 and compared it to the one I ran in the NP208 in Dad's truck. (Dad's original on top and the one from the 1356 on the bottom.) They looked interchangeable to me, so I put the one from the NP in the BW and it worked. Then I swapped the driven gears and that worked. So, I think we are good to go there. Right?