I just leveled out my 93' with new shocks all around. I noticed some ball joint movement and have decided to get to it before having my alignment done. What else should I do while I am in there? I'm thinking at least front axle u-joints and maybe some brakes. If I am going to do u-joints, should I do my seals too? I have my adjustable camber/caster bushings already. Can I save some alignment money putting those in myself? I'm a little worried my parts list is going to grow exponentially in direct correlation to my bill

 

How can you install the bushing when you don't know how far out the settings are? My memory tells me there are different settings & until you know where the settings are how can you place the bushing in the right setting?

 

Come on man,you just questioned my most minor question.... I can set them to better than what they are between my work station and where it's being aligned. I'm currently doing only short trips on stock angle with a spring level, you think I can't do the same or better? Answer my other 20 questions before telling me I am dumb PLEASE

 

I just did these on my 96 f250. This is one of those "while its apart... I might as well do..." It does get lengthy. Here's what I did "while it was apart": axle u joints (greasable), new seals, the ball joints with the good NAPA gold and blue joints, a new brake rotor, packed the bearings good before putting the hub back on, and new brake pads. I also did an add a leaf and new shocks to level it out. I just stuck the adj bushings in wherever before taking it to the alignment shop (only about a mile). They straightened everything out and mounted a new set on 305s to align it. Looks great, and drives like brand new! Good luck!

 

Y thank you. I guess I just needed some validation.

 

I agree with the parts list, though if it doesn't need rotors I'd skip that. The spindle needle bearings & seals are what I would add to the list.

As to the alignment, I looked at the factory bushing (fixed, with degree marked on bottom) and added 1.5 or 1.75 degrees to those settings (can't recall now), set my adjustable bushings to that, and its darn close on camber with 2 years of good tire wear. That was for a 1.5" lift up front (level, no drop brackets) I set caster as I high as I could & still achieve proper camber (helps it track straight & wander less). Then just set toe with a tape measure (1/8" toed in) and you don't even need an alignment shop.