Headers for 292 in 64 4X4
#1
Headers for 292 in 64 4X4
Well gang, its moving along with test fits, etc. Working on from driveshaft clearance, so whilst at it, may as well throw in another item to make it tighter...Who has the best fitting headers for the 4X4 manual trans? My truck is stock height as far as springs go. Ive heard Patriot not so good? Im looking at the Sanderson headers but their dimensions have the collector landing right on the clutch linkage...I sent them an e-mail to see if their headers are ram horn config, then the dims seem more in line. Anyone recommend headers from their installs? Thanks
#3
Yeah I remember your debacle very well which is why Patriot aint even a thought on mine. I think the CM is same...do your Redds run alongside your steering box and under the CM? I'll look at your thread pics to see if you have any with the headers form under neath. Thanks - been driving that beauty of yours or what??
#4
Yes on the left it goes down beside the box but in front of the clutch Z bar and then under the CM. They end about 2 inches past the CM. I am driving it and have put about 8 or 9 hundred miles on it this summer Had it in a couple shows so far and the first show it was in, tied for beauty of the show. No judging in show last weekend but had many people stop and talk about how nice it was. Was accepted into a show for this Saturday that you have to send pictures in with your application. they allow 300 cars in and all cars must be at least 90% of original. No flames no aftermarket colors and so on. I am entered in the judged portion so we will see how it does in that.
#5
Flowtech by Holley.
I used Flowtech by Holley. I don't know if they make a header for a 292 in our factory 4x4. There were only a few listed to fit. This on an FE in the same type truck. I got mine from Jegs I believe. I had to make a slight hammer adjustment on the starter side to one of the header tubes to get it to clear the starter. I suppose I could have put in a high torque starter and would have been good on that side. I did have to relocate the clutch return spring on the drivers side and redrill to slightly move the spring to a different angle. Not much really. If you do go Flowtech I recommend that you get some heat paint such as BBQ or wood stove paint and repaint them.I did not do that and they rusted pretty much right away. Im just going to use them till they go bad and then probably go to a tight tuck type of header. Good luck with your quest.
EDIT.... oh yeah the header on the drivers side was very close to the front drive line. My muffler shop guy cut the collecter and added to it on an angle so had more clearance that what you see in this picture.
Last edited by Buzz44; 07-15-2015 at 11:44 PM. Reason: add on
#6
I used a set a lot these on a 1963 F250 2wd. The ones I used were a an ancient NOS pair for a 50s Ford car but the design is the same. It ran down in front of the fire wall inside and to the rear of the steering gear. On a 2wd there's a big hole there with no cross member or linkage interference and it fit perfectly, like it was made for a slick.
I put them on, drove to the shop and they bent the pipes and welded her up. Check that area on the left side just in front of the firewall....this type may work out for you.
#7
Flowtech by Holley.
I used Flowtech by Holley. I don't know if they make a header for a 292 in our factory 4x4. There were only a few listed to fit. This on an FE in the same type truck. I got mine from Jegs I believe. I had to make a slight hammer adjustment on the starter side to one of the header tubes to get it to clear the starter. I suppose I could have put in a high torque starter and would have been good on that side. I did have to relocate the clutch return spring on the drivers side and redrill to slightly move the spring to a different angle. Not much really. If you do go Flowtech I recommend that you get some heat paint such as BBQ or wood stove paint and repaint them.I did not do that and they rusted pretty much right away. Im just going to use them till they go bad and then probably go to a tight tuck type of header. Good luck with your quest.
EDIT.... oh yeah the header on the drivers side was very close to the front drive line. My muffler shop guy cut the collecter and added to it on an angle so had more clearance that what you see in this picture.
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#8
Yes on the left it goes down beside the box but in front of the clutch Z bar and then under the CM. They end about 2 inches past the CM. I am driving it and have put about 8 or 9 hundred miles on it this summer Had it in a couple shows so far and the first show it was in, tied for beauty of the show. No judging in show last weekend but had many people stop and talk about how nice it was. Was accepted into a show for this Saturday that you have to send pictures in with your application. they allow 300 cars in and all cars must be at least 90% of original. No flames no aftermarket colors and so on. I am entered in the judged portion so we will see how it does in that.
#9
#10
Thanks. Im really trying to do as much as I can with the axles, steering and brakes with all Ford parts - or as many as possible. Donor truck was the late 77 4X4 I picked up. I don't like relying on aftermarket companies for stuff as they tend to go out of business. So 5 years down the road if I need a new master cylinder I can still get one at Napa or wherever. I think its safe that Mummert will be around for a while so for the power steering pump brackets and extra crank pulley, I'll probably go there. Im heading back offshore to shake the money tree so this will be 10-10 on the side for a little while. I am very very much enjoying this build and all the chat on this FTE site. I'll be back...!!!
#11
Awesome. Love your truck. Can you snap a pic of the drivers side header from the engine bay when you get a chance? Im on the fence with Redds or Sanderson and Redds shows the coating available now. Either set is $500 plus, or I can do a build my own set which I might do. I can already see my power steering upgrade will require the steering shaft to run up along frame rail...I think..this is why header is next clearance hurdle. Thanks!
Edit.... If you find my build down in projects there are some other pics of the headers installed on the block not in the truck. I also took some pics from underneath at various angles. They are a cheap header and I knew I was going to do a complete restore on the truck at a later time so went that route. I will look for better when I do a complete on the truck but the cheapies are working fine for now.
#12
Are you looking for anything in particular? I will take a few when I get the chance. I didn't have to do to much modifying on that side. I did however install them with the front clip off. It might have been a tad harder with the clip in place but not undoable.
Edit.... If you find my build down in projects there are some other pics of the headers installed on the block not in the truck. I also took some pics from underneath at various angles. They are a cheap header and I knew I was going to do a complete restore on the truck at a later time so went that route. I will look for better when I do a complete on the truck but the cheapies are working fine for now.
Edit.... If you find my build down in projects there are some other pics of the headers installed on the block not in the truck. I also took some pics from underneath at various angles. They are a cheap header and I knew I was going to do a complete restore on the truck at a later time so went that route. I will look for better when I do a complete on the truck but the cheapies are working fine for now.
#13
#14
Here's a set that would probably work for you.
Ford Y Block Header Dual Exhaust 239 272 292 312 | eBay
Ford Y Block Header Dual Exhaust 239 272 292 312 | eBay
#15
You will probably have to end up making your headers as I have neve seen a set of headers going to a place that would put them to the other side of the drive line. Newer or older. Only thing close in my mind is thru the fender well type headers use in drag racing and such. Then take them to side pipes.